That someone... or someplace... is Studio Zaloon. Go there - it's one of the few places I know that will have both!

EH!.. that yashica i also got!!! let me go korek that strap.. hahahaa

sure... will go.. hahahaa... did u try 16-35 F4 for FE E-mount?

LOL go for it!!! it looks so good on A7!

what is the sweet spot for SEl35f1.8?

Around 2.8

thanx

Another question:

then f1.8 is wasted?

Another question

I know image sharpness is referring to resolution of more than 1,800 lines per inch

Is there a online software/website where we can upload a photo and check if it is sharp or not?

I didn't try at all, even though I've seen it a few times. I am honestly not interested in that lens because:
1) Most of my stuff is still in A-mount
2) I have the Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG already which is much wider
3) My A-mount 24mm F2.0 Zeiss already covers this, and I have a E-mount 16mm F2.8 with the rear baffle removed so it becomes full-frame but with vignetting
4) If I really wanted a wide-angle FE Zeiss I'd wait for the FE-mount 28mm F2.0 (or use the E-mount 20mm F2.8 pancake, but not enough resolution when in APS-C mode on my A7S)

Wow the 16mm 2.8 works with FF with the baffle removed?! how is the image quality?

my old strap looked fragile.. later putus if i attach my F42 flashgun to my a7.. XD..

ordered this instead..

http://storks.co/shop/product/vintage-doub...esh-neck-strap/

Btw.. Which kind of adapter can i use to mount my samyang 8mm fisheye A-mount to my A7? Any cheapo adapter without electronic parts?

This post has been edited by ahpingko: Dec 23 2014, 08:23 AM

Cheap a7k in digidirect.com.au

1119 aus only.

yup bro...any discounts on those lens?

well, a sharp image doesn't mean it is a good one and vise versa don't be so nitpicking on sharpness, it won't add too much more value to a picture and can be fixed with PP a lot of the time.

It depends on what you want. But having the option to go 1.8 is a plus if you want more bokeh

not bokeh only but more light...

Haha nice also...
I use LAEA-3 but I heard you can get EA-1 and remove the baffle and still works

Thanks everyone

- Reason I ask : It would be more pleasing to have a sharp image, no?

- I read up about this yesterday and many people suggest a tripod as a start. OK

- I found a website which calculate EV (exposure value) - http://www.endoflow.com/exposure/

Let’s say Im using SEL 35mm f1.8, set at f2.8, 1/60s & ISO 100. The result is EV=9



So it tells me “Landscapes, city skylines 10 minutes after sunset. Neon lights, spotlighted subjects”

These are the situation for these setting?

Forget the tripod part.. just go and learn how to steady your shots with proper technique.. why frustrate your mobility ? You must develop steady enough handhold shots down to 1sec! or at lest 0.5 sec.. on 50mm full manual lens - otherwise you will continue to be slave to the technology.. This are traditional benchmarks from the old school and it is still valid if you want to enjoy using manual lens. These days, it cost you nothing to learn and acquire this skill except our patience and time.

There are plenty of tips out there to show and tell.. experiment find your best way..

The only time you really need tripod is when shooting macro or using long tele photo lens beyond 135mm- Full Frame.

This post has been edited by ChinWY: Dec 23 2014, 11:21 AM

Haha, true.

I cant answer this one, too technical Just trial and error for me