keep stock unless you're serious on track

change to some stiffer absorbers like kyb gas or IMP comfort or even propex

if non smoker, remove visors is best.

useless item

personally, lets hope red line can re condition your gearbox as i know for a fact that it's loaded with additives


give it say, few months/few k km and see if it smoothens.
if not then you can decide if you want to recond/rebuild the gb, or transplant.
personally i would prefer recond/rebuilding even though it typically is the costlier choice.

no very certain since i never had manual for the saga/iswara, mine is auto.
however from the gear ratios alone, (if i don't mess up on how to read ratios lol) D should have more pickup however would lose out on top speed

other sifu do correct me if i'm wrong.

if you're not serious of handling/risk making handling worse, forget about any bars.

alternatively if you're in KL, my car does have *most* of the bars installed and you're welcome to try how it's like before making a final decision.

sadly, can't install on mine

matter of perception/preference

i do like some of the bars, not all though.
Rear ARB and front strut that requires welded brackets for example.

granted, the rear arb does have its uses, however for most drivers, they are better off without it.

On a side note: my new inspira, only ori Mitsubishi front strut enough.

hmm the only bars i like are probably the side and fender bars

i go fix the suspensions first la lol

nope; however i believe they have the 4g1 series facebook club stickers

pretty much.
For me i keep it simple - if want means want, don't want means don't want. period.

as for the stickers, i'm on no as i'm no fan of stickers
ps: i still got some PERFORMANCE stickers to give away from the brands i buy lol
AFAIK i got red line, motul, i think NRG? umm wonder if got more lol

to add in, while the specification of SAE for transmission fluid and engine oil is different, the actual viscosity can be the same.
so to say transmission/gear oil is thicker than engine oil is incorrect.

example:
SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W30
SAE Viscosity Grade (Gear Oil) 75W80

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=50204

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=142&pcid=21

with this, the engine oil is actually thicker than the gear oil!

additionally, detergent is not so much to prevent acidity of the lubricant, more so to be able to clean/neutralize carbon/combustion blow by and keep it in suspension within the oil
there are of course other additives (working along side with detergent) to prevent the oxidization/varnish/acidity of the oil.

As a matter of fact, depending on your driving conditions, transmission can actually be much hotter than your engine oil (remember what i have experienced in my gear oil?) as your engine oil has radiator/coolant to help maintain temperatures, while the gear oil's only way to cool itself is the transmission case which is thick galvanised steel or something (IINM anyways) and those aren't exactly the best materials for heat conductivity

the main reason gear oil cannot be use in an engine is due to the lack of detergent/dispersant additives, while for engine generally it is as you said, as that is made way for detergent/dispersant additives in favor over friction modifiers.

interesting as to how i am answering similar things on both threads
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72920484

can consider looking up reports explanation such as this:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php


delsoo
please consider reading the first page of this thread as well as this thread:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3310512

a lot of your questions have been widely available around these forums on various threads (or even google)

people who knows me enough will get there eventually

i would leave it up to fate

ca2n
i was going to say crack due to metal fatigue, but i guess what you posted made more sense.
thanks for sharing

I try not to think about those when I'm on the road. Although admittedly I do think about it time to time, even sometimes imagining myself crashing

haha i'm an IT person afterall

=edit=
hmm the tagging thingy broke lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 12 2015, 10:50 PM

Nice you really look into it lol.

Though, I'm not even sure if the tagging would work.
Easier for me to just use a quote reply lol

as for the UR upper room bar (assuming you mean rear upper bar, installed near rear windshield), i would strongly advise you to pin point/identify the source of noise before hastily adding bars.
more often than not these bars would add noise more than removing noise.
personally i have the upper bar as well and i'm not even entirely sure if it helps more so for your objectives

i did my car's repair at this place:
https://www.google.com.my/maps/place/1,+Jal...afcffd989?hl=en

as you may have known/read, my entire front was fully rebuilt, and rear also did a cut/spot weld at the spot you experienced crack as well so i'm quite confident they can do a decent job for you.
pricing may not be cheap though, so best if you get a quotation while looking other places, compare prices/workshops etc and decide yourself.

CV joint boot/cover are quite cheap, in the 10's or less than 10 iinm.

the labor is actually more expensive as have to take out drive shaft to regrease it etc.
then may need to top up gear oil as well.

Azure_01
growth will be unlikely. the car is no longer under production anyways.

if we can maintain this thread... for as long as i own the car (most likely forever i hope!), then i'm satisfied already