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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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TSQuazacolt
post Jan 5 2015, 02:50 PM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 5 2015, 01:56 PM)
Albert B was right on the gl-4 rating for trans fluid. But finding a gl-4 75w-80 or 75w-85 is hard these days. There is no option but to take the toyota trans fluid which is gl-5. I run a whole seremban town for the gl-4 fluid but there is none at any spare parts shop. Mostly is castrol 80-90 trans fluid which I have bad experience.

Seriously after changing to toyota fluid, my gear changed easier for 1st and 2nd gear.

I wouldn't go for redline oil Cuz is expensive per liter to run for daily ride. I will changed the trans oil again if I find out the right trans oil for the gb.
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no doubt about that, hence i actually made a list for my inspira. (going to be messy as i'm lazy to format a direct copy paste from spreadsheet lol)
CODE
summary of suitable Gear oil for the F5MBB Aisin 5 speed manual Transmission:      
Brand Model Base stocks/remarks Links  others
Redline MTL Fully synthetic "http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/Manual%20Trans%20Lube%20Product%20Data.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/RL%20MT%20MSDS%203-13.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MTL%20and%20MT-90%20Tech%20Info.pdf"  "ELF: ah reminds me of the proton default lubricant (are they still using it?) - TRANSELF NFJ 75W-80

http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000C9DA.pdf
http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000E0F2.pdf
http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/australia.nsf/VS_OPM/C0377B9EE8D259D1C1257951002BA39F?OpenDocument&LG=EN&$#E3B6"
AMSOIL "Manual Synchromesh
Transmission Fluid 5W-30" Fully synthetic http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA  chemlube full ester based synthetics
Shell Spirax S6 GXME 75w80 Fully synthetic "http://www.epc.shell.com/docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_Kingdom_Shell_Spirax_S6_GXME_75W-80_(en-GB)_TDS.pdf

http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/country/deu/downloads/pdf/product-range-brochures/shell-spirax-s6-gxmebrochure.pdf"  eneos GL5 synchromesh compatible gear oil
Royal Purple SYNCHROMAX - MTF Fully synthetic http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/synchromax-manual-transmission-fluid/  Total http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/fichepdf/lang_1/1205.pdf not much info on this, total website is so shit i rage browsing it.
Motul MOTYLGEAR 75W-80 semi-synthetic http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/143/original/Motylgear%2075W-80%20(GB).pdf?1328624012  
Liqui moly Getriebeöl (GL5) 75 W-80 semi-synthetic  http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_3658.html?Opendocument&land=GB&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf  
ELF TRANSELF NFJ 75W-80 synthetic technology (no info on base stocks)    
Mitsubishi Diaqueen 75w80 GL-3 no info on this at all besides this is the original manufacturer's specified lube    
Pennzoil SYNCHROMESH FLUID Should be mineral based, however using synthetic technology. may google "paraffinic base stocks" http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Synchromesh-Manual-Trans-Fluid.pdf  
Torco MTF Group 3 Mineral based, VI is on the low side though. http://www.torcousa.com/technology/MTF.pdf  


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 5 2015, 02:51 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 5 2015, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 5 2015, 03:00 PM)
All of these oil that you posted seems expensive for gl4 rated. Any info where to get Ams fluid and for torco fluid? I read a few good info about them.
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if you're around kepong area, can find Zenden/zhapalang

http://store.zhapalang.com.my/location_map.php
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 5 2015, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(alexwsk @ Jan 5 2015, 03:38 PM)
so shud i change to GL4 immediately or just wait for next service?
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up to you... for older gearboxes, i think most people don't ever care as they are work horses.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 6 2015, 08:09 PM

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QUOTE(yewwing @ Jan 6 2015, 07:25 PM)
wooo nearby my working place  biggrin.gif  biggrin.gif ...i work at manjalara

Thanks for the location

user posted image

Recently upgrade to twin pot, the braking is  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
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Group car wash tt mou? Lol
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 6 2015, 08:11 PM

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QUOTE(ca2n @ Jan 6 2015, 06:56 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Go to an honest air cond shop and get it checked
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 6 2015, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 6 2015, 07:13 PM)
Does ELF Tranself NFJ 75w-80 gl-4 suitable for iswaras gb like Quazacolt mentioned? Is Proton service center still selling this manual fluid for the savvy? tq smile.gif
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Should be Ok, not sure on the pricing though and iinm not cheap also. Might as well go for the aftermarket boutique brands
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 6 2015, 08:28 PM

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QUOTE(yewwing @ Jan 6 2015, 08:16 PM)
Jom, let me know the date..if everyone nearby free, then we make it happen...lol
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https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72354685

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 6 2015, 08:23 PM)
CHAPALANG KAR HUASH TT

Normal car wash + vacuum = RM8
Additional water wax = RM10
Promotion COMBO = RM15

Optional:
Dashboard & cabin panels & furnishing shine(non-grease) for leather use(also can prevent PVC dry cracks) = RM10
Cushion, carpet(not the floor mat) & roof carpet wash = RM170

Date: 17th January, 2015
Time: 10am start TT. First cum first wash basis. Cushion/carpet/roof wash please reschedule directly with tauke, otherwise take up too much of other TTer's time

Personal testimonial in spoiler:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Attendance:
1. davidke20
2. dares
3. n3w
4. Bazinga!
5. r3apers
6. Fubar20
7. Iskazulka
8. carcraze66
9. Christopher93
10.

Kepohchee fler:
1. Quazacolt
2.
3.
4.
5.
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Hmm, I may be bringing the iswara or kancil to wash instead lol
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 7 2015, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 7 2015, 10:16 AM)
Quick question, how many of you guys still having the stock door locks actuators(the door lock motor on each door with center locking system on the alarm module) in the car until today?

Another question, if rosaked, will you go back buy Plotong original which cost an arm and leg? Or modify aftermarket universal fitted actuator?

Have you ever consider, whether the original lock actuator can be repaired/serviced?
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iinm mine should be original, at least some of the doors (may not be all) are.

will buy proton ori for peace of mind.

if can repair to save cost, definitely will repair/service.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 06:48 AM)
Sorry to say, other than personal preference like yourself, LMSS features easily tapaued LMST, LMST(Merdeka edition 2006 orange kaler red tail lamp tinted with CD Player), original Iswara, Iswara aeroback, Saga Orion, Saga Magma, Saga Megavalve, Saga Knight, Saga Aeroback.

So if you would like to have LMST, I dun mind swap every single thing from my LMST with your LMSS, including entire dashboard migration. And not to mention the plasticky door panel that makes me wanna kick my car everytime when I try to open the door.
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iswara full spec auto back then isnt entirely plasticky at all geh

well, the car was bought at around 48k++ so... lol
to think it's only 3k now doh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 8 2015, 10:41 AM)
What brand was the good CV joint? I also read comments elsewhere that the replacement CV joints for Iswara does not last. BTW my original Proton fitted one is surprisingly still ok after 13 years, just waiting ...

Regarding the track arm bushes, I heard that the bushes must be changed together with the track arm as whole set - is it true? Mine is coming up for replacement (tyre more wear on inner side).
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personally i might as well change the whole drive shaft to aftermarket, less than rm200 but got a year warranty. i posted pictures previously, brand starts with o, from China.

if spoil also ok since not expensive, and so far mine has lasted over a year or 2 and have been through track days.

for the track arm (rear axle right?) the bush can be changed separately, however the labour cost is going to be few times more than the cheap aftermarket bush.
and it will not fully solve your nvh issues entirely, but better than nothing with non melted bush for the metal parts to cushion with. (my previous bush basically worn until become melted goo lol)
maybe due to exhaust heat also.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Jan 8 2015, 10:46 AM)
I saw a glimpse of blue colour lotus style dashboard. Is that even possible? Headlamps you go buy in sparepart shop la...They got sell ma. the signal only lamps 1 pair = RM 180, the headlamps 1 pair = RM360 (i think).
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lol LMST headlamps ori 660/pair lol.
i bought 2 times some more cuz crashed my car.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 04:36 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 04:32 PM)
Same like the UK Plotong 1.5 export model rite? I also notice yours different abit geh wub.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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oh no not the export model, the gear/knob, meter cluster is obviously different haha.

but its more... *a bit* of softer touch, the door panels ACTUALLY have minor sheets etc for sound/weatherproof and not totally kosong like my neighbor's ex LMST (recently sold for new city)

thats why i stubbornly/insist on keeping it no matter what biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 04:44 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 04:38 PM)
The bushes sapsapsui oni. More imporkten is the center coupling grease cup. That area after broken grease will leak off. Once no more grease, then metal to metal liao. If still no care drive few thousand KM, then hailat jor. Even after that changed the grease cup also no use jor coz the metal to metal grind ady create gap. The cup wouldn't hold still and emit kok kok sound liao sad.gif
*
thats's probably what happened for my case sad.gif

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 04:39 PM)
Deswai I was saying, LMSS still has the old Iswaga's door panel geh. Half PCV soft touch sponged wrapped on top geh. Follow by clothe finishing at the middle part of the panel. Bottom part also PCV soft touch sponged wrapped jor geh.
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yeah pretty much biggrin.gif
localizing more parts (the bumpers/head or tail lamps etc) over the ori stanley/mitsu etc, further reducing cost/pricing (iinm lmss are in the 30k to low 40k right?)
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 8 2015, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 8 2015, 04:43 PM)
Jiu noe ar, cap ayam LMST 1 pair baru RM200 laugh.gif I so lorv the LMSS lamp wub.gif Lastaim I even kat wayar of my Iswaga to fit LMST lamp simply bcoz I kenot find cheap LMSS lamp nia.
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i actually love the lmst front/headlamps more and i converted my front as you know.

the headlamps are still pretty clear after uh 2 years?
dug back photos, January 2013 laugh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 9 2015, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 9 2015, 03:22 PM)
can anyone help with this?
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alternator service/recondition is ~100
can look up lyn for that shop at jalan ipoh, very honest folks. rejected me cuz my alternator still works fine LOL
alternator if voltage stable, no need to do anything. just check/pay attention to voltage being steady 14-14.3v

power steering oil if want budget, can just use proton ATF SP3 also can
i think 100-300ml enough, do NOT overfill.
a bottle is in the rm20-24?

radiator if you dont want inconvenience, just get premix.
proton SC charges rm31/bottle (i just did for inspira lol)

water pump ori GMB (i purchased it damn long time ago preparing for my iswara but procrastination master race so lol) although no longer made in japan, thailand isnt so bad and its around rm130
Ori proton will quota ~180

timing belt kit ori proton rm90
includes the cam/crank seals, bearing and the timing belt.
that + the water pump together, interval as per your doc will suffice.


additional
considering your interval for spark plugs, i would assume it is for cheap copper plugs? for those, i think you may be able to get a set of ori bosch for rm3x, like 8/piece? 10 per piece also rm 40 la.

brake fluid, consider spending a little bit more for ori bosch, or at least ori proton or from mainstream oil brands like shell/petronas and please get them from reputable source (make sure they are ori)
and they should easily last through your specified interval.

in a nutshell, once brake fluid begin to darken is when i totally flush them.
i'm VERY particular on my braking performance wink.gif

oil filter ori proton is between rm7.5-12 depending on how many you buy, and whether you're buying from ori proton part center or outside authorized stockist (also listed on proton website) such as CK wong (at jalan ipoh/segambut border there) that i frequently visit.

fuel filter rm7ish even from proton part center (some stockist outside keep running out of stocks sad.gif )
air filter rm12 ori Proton AMP
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 9 2015, 06:45 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 9 2015, 06:37 PM)
tq bro.... =D

will go do carburator cleaning, i dun think my mechanic got do it for me. Tuning means what btw?

want to ask
1. Engine oil cap (RM15).....is regular replacement of this thing necessary? And for what purpose?

2. Gear oil (RM32), is it applicable to lmst manual?

3. Air filter (RM8), how frequent should I change this?

4. radiator flushing, water pump, and alternator.....may i know the cost and how frequent should I replace these things?

tq bro....hehe....later upload photos...
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carb tuning = set idling/air cond idle/air fuel ratio.

1) no. at most is the rubber seal for the oil cap, rm5ish to replace. and only replace if got leak on the oil cap area (where you fill in engine oil)

2) no idea, but consider getting GL4 75w80 or 75w85 gear oils from reputable brands. and make sure ori.

3) should be few ringgit more for ori, replace only when it's really stained and even after air gun blowing wouldn't help cleaning it, and/or your airgun beginning to blow holes damaging the cotton/paper filter compromising filtration.

4) replied on previous post
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 10 2015, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 9 2015, 09:33 PM)
of course, excel prower =P
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consider google spreadsheets/google docs smile.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 11 2015, 02:10 AM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jan 10 2015, 11:59 AM)
go ahead friend =)

http://goo.gl/oyx4ua
*
awesome bro thumbup.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 12 2015, 06:25 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 12 2015, 06:13 PM)
my dad just bought a 2003 proton iswara se edition silver colour . This is the limited edition , right? I am actually quite amazed by the car . The car is not as noisy(engine sound)  as my uncle's 1996 proton iswara , although it's been 12 years old. But it's not as powerful as the 1996 model .I have to press the pedal quite hard to achieve higher speed.  I am wondering how's the fuel consumption .
Any car sifus own the car can comment here pls? How to lessen the vibration when the car is idle? Turn off the aircond?
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check your idle rpm, engine mounting etc.

QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 12 2015, 06:20 PM)
my saga is manual one . i heard someone said that if keep the rpm low at 2500 level , the car wouldnt break down easily and it can save the fuel , is it true?
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i hope you meant normal driving and not idle at 2500 rpm.
personally, maintenance (and preventive maintenance) is essential in keeping the car from breaking down.

even if you drive it super gently but neglect to perform regular oil change, sludge is going to build up and eventually the engine would seize anyways.
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 12 2015, 06:30 PM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Jan 12 2015, 06:19 PM)
4 units less than RM160 if not mistaken.
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ori proton/mitsubishi (more expensive, but will last you very long, especially the side/transmission mounts) mountings will cost you over 1k.

the torque mountings are less than 200 for both front/back, the bulk of the cost are on the side/transmission mountings.

protip on the torque mountings (front/back) is to inject in high temp/weather resistant silicone to fill up the gaps so their durability can last longer.
the torque mountings are the ones that always need replacement while the side/transmission ones can easily last many years/between 50-100k km or even more.
the torque mountings sadly, under my insane abuse lasted as short as 2-3 months on their original form without DIY reinforcement. and yes they are original proton mountings.
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