sup lol! so retired already? what's your new ride?

did the wheels locked and tire skid? or just simply not braking and the wheels are just spinning as normal and your vehicle not slowing down as intended?

changed brake fluid? i tend to change mine very early, as soon as it's in a bit of a teh ais color and they are gone.
done brake fluid flushing/bleeding as well to ensure the system have no contaminants?

personally i find the stock braking on the iswara being rather adequate with decent performance brake pads.
anything more it's way too easy to lock the wheels and our car have no ABS - good luck if you spin out.

my brake pads to go are the EBC greenstuff
and i personally import them from UK as local distributor (pentagon) sells them at a hefty price

quite fair price

if you've read my review, it's a damn good ride even if it's CVT is dumb as f***.
get a manual and that solves that problem

still, good choice i'd say

very irresponsible work around

i assume the problem is high rpm?
does this happen only on cold starts, or even after coolant temperature at mid level/warmed up also same?

Carburetor can be repaired/faulty parts replaced, or even serviced with various carb cleaners on the market to loosen/clean clogged/stuck valves/chokes etc.

if the carb is replaced and it's having problem, no choice but to keep pressing that workshop who suggested a change in the first place when it may have not been required.

too sudden stop?
if require better tire grip/traction, may consider something else other than c drive2.
am using c drive 2 and to be honest it isn't really that suitable for spirited driving however for *most situations* it is adequate, decent comfort and some lower rolling resistance (LRR) also.

or, anticipate better/keep distance. or just having better "Aku brake sendiri" abs
which comes to your brake fluid, if it's contaminated (oxidized, having air pockets etc) it will respond very poorly and especially when you mentioned "faded", which may not be brake fade and it's just the calipers/servo jammed/unresponsive.

do check your caliper checked as well or get it serviced.

As for rotors, i used to have cross drilled/slotted, they eventually cracked at the drills.
Personally they don't offer that much more performance improvements over solid disc, however with just the words of "performance"/"motorsports", they are easily 3 times the pricing of normal rotor replacements just to have some drills/slots added.
They do however have less structural rigidity (due to the cross drill throughs), and no matter how tame (or aggressive) you drive they will eventually develop hairline cracks from the drilled holes. Just a matter of time/luck.
Solid discs will obviously fare better durability since it's a solid one piece, not even vents for our iswara stock rotors anyways.

comparatively, i was on IMP x drilled/slotted rotors and they were rm300+ almost rm400, while the current Shoji oem/aftermarket replacement was like rm110-150 ish iinm.
If your current stock rotors are thinned out/very old (maybe can find a mechanic can have thickness measured or just seek second/multiple opinions from various workshops), then can consider a cheap brembo(not italy ya, just cheapo china oem ones lol)/trw/shoji stock (solid disc) replacement.

i gotten my ebc greenstuff for iswara at £46.33 (GBP) pricing.
obviously it is much more expensive than aftermarket replacements like Bosch/Bendix, like 3-5 times the price assuming they are around rm60-100 ish, but for something like brakes, i prefer not to compromise.
Not to mention i have a preference to lower brake dust pads, if that's not a requirement, can consider something cheaper like EBC ultimax (or some called black).

probably language issue here, but your rpm don't go down after you off your car? or you mean your engine doesn't off when you turn your keys?

think about this: you change to china carb, but still end up faulty, and you had to keep changing cuz no refund.
eventually the pricing would be the same, if not even exceed an ori half cut, or even brand new ori...

try to tune DIY:


or carb cleaning

(not a carb but that's the general idea, spray it on your carb after you remove it's cover/air filter.
seek mechanic assistance if you're not familiar.

please use fuelly.com and monitor at least 2-3 fuel ups with full tank until the pump clicks.

please consider using app or something like fuelly.com to measure FC.

check if there's any leaking valves/vacuum, is your carb properly tuned? air fuel ratio ok? spark plugs/plug cable ok? engine oil? when's last service? air filters? maybe de-carbon the carburetor?

as my sis is driving the iswara and very frugal at that, here's the latest FC:
http://www.fuelly.com/car/proton/saga/1999/Quazacolt/120763
so that's RM73.427 for 362.01 km done at 11.14 KM/Liter

3 speed auto? you'll need to really take care of the gearbox.

if you're someone who can drive under 70-80kph, it *CAN* be fuel economical.
my sister proven it by having 11+km/L on avg as per linked from above fuelly.

otherwise a MT with lesser cc will have more advantage with just the 2 additional gears alone.
maintenance wise, parts not too much different.
half cut gear box even if you blow it is in the ~1k range.

ATF will be more expensive/have to change more frequent compared to MT gear oil.

generally what rojak posted.

to add on:
can check the oil from the ATF (if auto, atf = auto transmission fluid)/engine dip sticks.
if too watery or too thick/viscous, should take caution.

for engine oil/atf check if it has odd colors/murkish look/texture.
if it does, avoid the car entirely as it will require an overhaul as coolant is mixed with the lubricant, be it from the engine or the radiator (ATF will flow through radiator for cooling)

Check the mileage/service stickers or markings (some of them are left behind carelessly ) and see if there are overdue items.

can also see if the rpm if idling stable and how is the air cond quality/rpm after compressor kicks in.
FYI if all parts are original denso, iswara air cond is very capable of sub 5 or even sub zero temperatures on a good day upon full load.
so needless to say, typically the temperature knob is set to almost off position
anything more than half i would be cautious also as full air cond part replacement for original denso is 2-2.5k+

If auto, the bottom mountings (afaik they are called torque mountings) can be obtained for between rm100-200 for both pieces ORIGINAL proton.
however if for auto, they will have gaps/made softer to accommodate for jerkiness/lesser power of the auto transmission. this is good and all however it means that it will wear off very fast and chances are if you're looking at an auto car it's most likely torn.
Not expensive to replace, however consider filling the gaps with PU (Polyurethane, can find easily from hardware stores) when you buy new ones, let it cure before replacing.

sometimes, the coolant wouldn't be so obvious on leaks, so maybe pay attention if there are any drastic reduction from the coolant overflow tank/reservoir or if there are water/coolant stains from the water pump/hoses/connection parts.
same goes for engine oil/ATF/manual gear oil (much rare case for manual gear oil) leaks.

may check also on drive shaft boots if they are torn.
oem/non ori are cheap, 180-250 per piece however ori will be around/1k per piece

do full lock to lock (steering turn to max) turns and try to accelerate while doing it and see if there are any knocking noise.
may also check on steering response to find faults on steering rack/rack end/tie rod end/bushing wear and tear.
not expensive parts however it will take some time to troubleshoot/replace.

hmm i wonder if i miss out anything... maybe will add them if i can think of more.

perhaps sifu davidke20 (own only second hand cars) nestum (tire/suspension sifu)

wa sifu

here i help link myproton999
use this

long time no see your post

manual specified 75w85? perhaps can consider redline MT85 or give a shot to MTL (75w80)

that's what my inspira manual is using as the viscosity specification by Mitsubishi is 75w80

yeah that is correct and that's why i am sticking to GL4 gear oils for my inspira

thanks for the pictures

i believe the HUGE confusion is the statement:
"6. API classification GL-4 or higher"

since they specified 75w85 with era of API SG, i believe 75w80 can be applied as well and that can easily eliminate many cold shifting issues

that should have been the way
well, normal gear oil (even cheap castrol) can be GL5; Just pay attention to labels and use GL4/synchromesh or yellow metal friendly gear oils