Same like the UK Plotong 1.5 export model rite? I also notice yours different abit geh

The bushes sapsapsui oni. More imporkten is the center coupling grease cup. That area after broken grease will leak off. Once no more grease, then metal to metal liao. If still no care drive few thousand KM, then hailat jor. Even after that changed the grease cup also no use jor coz the metal to metal grind ady create gap. The cup wouldn't hold still and emit kok kok sound liao

Deswai I was saying, LMSS still has the old Iswaga's door panel geh. Half PCV soft touch sponged wrapped on top geh. Follow by clothe finishing at the middle part of the panel. Bottom part also PCV soft touch sponged wrapped jor geh.

Jiu noe ar, cap ayam LMST 1 pair baru RM200 I so lorv the LMSS lamp Lastaim I even kat wayar of my Iswaga to fit LMST lamp simply bcoz I kenot find cheap LMSS lamp nia.

p/s to my previous reply:

Jiu up kar up kao kao ady

http://www.lelong.com.my/central-lock-modu...7-01-Sale-I.htm

The reason I was saying the Plotong ori will cost an arm and leg is a legit comparison when ori cost RM80 per piece, whilst this 1 only RM50 full set include the center lock control module. RM300, jiu can self guaranteed for another 5 extra sets

Alex ko ar Alex ko,

RM60 if divide by old price RM2.26 is merely 26.548litre leh. How far do you want the car go? 300km on town driving for that RM60 is seriously not bad leh.

11.3km/l
8.84litre/100km

Huat do you expect? Even Kancil also very hard to achieve that figure wei

Nah, let's say if you do RM60 divide by new price RM1.91 lar, which is 31.413litre. the figure become

9.5km/l
10.47litre/100km

Now the 2nd case scenario is just as close to Qauzacolt kinda FC Or my waifu driving a Kampro BLM going tru & fro LDP every working day at peak hours. Yiu do the math lar, again not even a MyVi can get better FC than yours

I recommend you to do full tank fuel up. Fill it to the brim. Make use of http://www.fuelly.com to record every single fuel ups. Every fuel up also reset your trip meter, so you know how much you traveled from the previous full tank of petrol Klik on my Fuelly to see the sohigh figure. Damn ganjeong wei. Don't mind between there got kosong cause I don't usually get to drive the car, there will be months with no record geh since my aunty is the 1 who abuse it.

The most recent tank of petrol, I did hypermile style I have no particular RPM to stay, but practically 1st gear drag until 3krpm in about 5 seconds, 2nd gear to 3krpm in about 5 seconds, 3rd gear to 3krpm in about 10 seconds, 4th gear also 3krpm ady reached 80kph, then finally engage 5th gear but no more acceleration, like auto car engaged OD liao. Drive above 80 but below 90 , try to maintain speed at all time, minimum brakes, squash through corners even disregard road curbs, trailgate trucks that travelling at 90kph on highway(particularly A permit prime mover with containers, no 三大皇 please, afraid stone fall crack my windshield), tyre pressure at 43PSi or 300kPa, flood muffler with water, early morning no akon, late evening drive no akon, even if akon must be on(noon time where possible drive without akon?) thermostat is at minimal and totally rely on fan speed to blow air, try to avoid traffic jam at all cost(6am go to werk,8pm leave ofiz). I did all the above, 22km/litre or 4.4litre/100km is what I got few days ago

But ofcourse, I think this tank will be back to normal 13km/l ~ 14km/l jor bcoz really beh tahan liao Yesterday ady went whack the car kao kao.

My LMST is sport muffler type. After like some 10 years abuse, inside the fiber ady start to degrade. Flooding it will tighten it back temporarily(definitely bad as it will speed up the rust). RPM response between gear change will have significant improvement, especially re-acceleration. Example of after low speed corner when regain speed that point of time.

I don't block shifting, simply because I don't use high gear to ACCELERATE. Any acceleration should be done at the PREVIOUS gear. By skipping 2nd gear will result in guzzling more fuel on 3rd despite low RPM. If you have a vacuum meter attached to your car, you'll realized you actually need to spend more time on wide open throttle on 3rd gear to attain similar speed then 2nd gear. Make use of the low gear is very important. Its never how low your RPM is before you shift up, it's how LONG does it take for you to rev up to certain range of speed and RPM.

Ini mana sesat mali wrong tered la bro. Pi sana tanya diorang baru taw. Ini GaGa dgn it GaGa jauh beza wei

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3449496/+1000

CHAPALANG KAR HUASH TT

Normal car wash + vacuum = RM8
Additional water wax = RM10
Promotion COMBO = RM15

Optional:
Dashboard & cabin panels & furnishing shine(non-grease) for leather use(also can prevent PVC dry cracks) = RM10
Cushion, carpet(not the floor mat) & roof carpet wash = RM170

Date: 17th January, 2015
Time: 10am start TT. First cum first wash basis. Cushion/carpet/roof wash please reschedule directly with tauke, otherwise take up too much of other TTer's time

Personal testimonial in spoiler:


Attendance:
1. davidke20
2. dares
3. n3w
4. Bazinga!
5. r3apers
6. Fubar20
7. Iskazulka
8. carcraze66
9. Christopher93
10. yewwing
11. Quazacolt
12.
13.
14.
15.

CHAPALANG KAR HUASH TT

Normal car wash + vacuum = RM8
Additional water wax = RM10
Promotion COMBO = RM15

Optional:
Dashboard & cabin panels & furnishing shine(non-grease) for leather use(also can prevent PVC dry cracks) = RM10
Cushion, carpet(not the floor mat) & roof carpet wash = RM170

Date: 17th January, 2015
Time: 10am start TT. First cum first wash basis. Cushion/carpet/roof wash please reschedule directly with tauke, otherwise take up too much of other TTer's time

Personal testimonial in spoiler:


Attendance:
1. davidke20
2. dares
3. n3w
4. Bazinga!
5. r3apers
6. Fubar20
7. Iskazulka
8. carcraze66
9. Christopher93
10. yewwing
11. Quazacolt
12. jondankawan
13.
14.
15.

Pak. No piktar sharing meh Like the module look like what? Hook where? Splice wayar where?

Carburetor tuning can lessen the vibration on cold start. Meanwhile, check if engine mounting needs replacement. Power delivery wise, by right LMSS(your special edition model) has higher power output than the previous model(atleast that's what it saids on the specsheet), so I believe it could be dirty air filter that causes such retardant on your performance. Fuel consumption, with the right tuning can easily attain 13km/litre on mixture of town/hiway driving, is categorize on the low fuel consumption category.

Get to accessories shop ask them diagnose for you. Could be loose wiring or the headunit built in amplifier KO.

The engine before LMSS/LMST SAGA/ISWARA, on paper is rated 73hp



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Orion_engine#4G13


Whereas later 2003 onwards, on paper is rated at 83hp(due to upgrade of exhaust system), also heard from my magician the fuel jet/idling jet/ has been replaced on the 2006 Merdeka rusty orange edition of LMST, up to 90hp.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Saga#P...2.80.93_2008.29

Dude ar, since u know u r noob, we tell u what to do you have no clue also. Hence, for time being u go accessories shop and get the Head Unit(which we refer to HU) checked 1st. For those amplifiers(we usually call AMP), it could be fused? Loosen wire? Loosen RCA(signal cable) connectors? We can't be certain as there's a lot of technical part involved.

I don't mean to dis u or being a bitch sounding harsh marthafarker We welcome all GaGa Iswaga owners regardless. I just wish to inform you sometimes the otai here is very technical. When they explain, will have tons of crazy flying fish, prawn, crab here & there. If you can't understand, just wait patiently and ask the question politely, many will answer you with true passion geh

Car bai VIOS

say what? mai yau hai fake lancer fiore Plotong? so there's lots of teknikal term being used for diskasen. sarj as "kon9lan7fem", "dnmgh", "ammoshaft hits the fan"

Unlike other accessories in our kar kabin light, which have a switch on the power supply (+ve). The door suis is activated via GROUNDING, meaning when you open door, then the nipple will bounce out, and the steel plate connected to your cabin light (-ve) pole is touching the car body so the lights emit. Technically, the stock cabin light module only came with + and - 2 wayar, often DIY fler/low stended accessories shop doesn't know which to ground as they only see 2 wayar. Actually the 3 wayar after market version of cabin light, the DOOR is wayar at the door nipple GROUND(-ve), whereas belak kaler supposed to make a hook and skru it on the roof top(24hour ground), so it doesn't stop the circuit even if you open/shut door when the kabin lamp is set to ON.



So you're right, if he plonk the DOOR and ON to the positive, then the original graounding will automatically becamse a short circuit wayar Sorry unable to help unless I see the wayaring by myself. And the after setat kar no more door lights is healthy alternator having higher carj then the rusty car body can send back GROUNDING to the cabin lamp, that is why he can see a faint lighting emit when after car started(suggesting the DOOR sudah got +ve liao, could be wrong wayaring)

My best bet, he skru up on the +ve and -ve. Because DOOR should always be -ve, ON should always be -ve. OFF is not touching anything. The +ve is always hooked on the bulb +ve pole already geh.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jan 13 2015, 08:29 PM

He mean clutch pad

http://www.mudah.my/Exedy+clutch+set+Japan...5754.htm?last=1

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-mainten...car-clutch-work