Total is 1.7k...

Broken

Total is 1.7k...

Broken


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ori air filter is around rm13?
http://www.filton.com.my/product/mitsubish...r-filterfa-7672

should never use oil treatment/additives especially from local SC.
chances are it's x1r and it actually harms your engine more than good:
https://ms-my.facebook.com/TurboOwnersClub/...596299580466985

or hmm, could be this? https://www.fairmontsupply.com/storefrontCo...number=20319848
based on the part number on receipt

either way should still not be used.

timing belt kit for saga/iswara should also be in the rm100?
oh can refer here:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2850357/all
cyanboy

everything else looks to be in order.

btw where did you performed this service, proton SC?
if SC then no surprise la.

Spark plug BPR6EF-11 : F=tapered seat, 6 = cooler than specified BP5ES, 11 = gap at 1.1mm.
R = resistor for ECU protection (your engine is fuel injection?)

Distributor changed because got problems?

Top gasket changed because of coolant or oil leakage?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 11 2015, 07:10 PM


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I can confirm the part number as stated is the so called Japan made timing belt with original sticker on the packaging from Mitsu. However do take note on what they change for you as proton REPLACEMENT parts is Rm100+ only, easiest to spot is timing belt made in singapore.

From the printing and charges, seemed like an authorized SC, not original SC.

thanks for the info/confirmation bro

The main problem is the rear wheel was uneven, so i have change the tire and the sound gone.

Absorber has oil leaked and brake pad almost finish, so is time to change. 车脚=chasis？？

Any user review on Kayaba Absorber? Bushes come together with the absorber or need to buy separately?

Thx

that's tire issue then, not wheel bearing.

that's referring to the suspensions or more particularly, the lower arms or axles.

kayaba (KYB more specifically) are under UMW in malaysia, although the parent company is basically Japanese and being a long time huge manufacturer of suspensions and is oem for many car make/models.
no complaint on them since among cheapest price/comfortable stock ride.

bushes/mounting etc are sold separately.

ic, then i will change KYB absorber since it is the only brand i can get. Do you know which type of bushes suitable for LMST?

Thx

Consider get ori, based on what's broken /needed.

Kyb front gas shocks (red box) is around 100-120/piece
Rear 60-80 /piece

i just got to DIY replace the wiper motor after 16 years the ori denso has been with the car

supposedly ori/oem mitsinbo? the dead ori on the iswara was denso lol
its slightly cheaper than the part price list, at around 185/196 including gst.
the rear motor on the price list is 1.2k mitsubishi part number

anyone else having experience dealing with the front wiper motors?

I guess mitsinbo might be one of the OEM last time, and perhaps produces the closest to manufacturer quality? (Take account of the price and availability as well la, quality on par with price lo, still cheaper then manufacturer ma)

Currently my replaced parts which are rare like central lock actuator and the signal wiper switch is all Mitsinbo. I asked for ori and thats what they gave, stating no more proton ori for all this. Signal wiper switch range from RM50 per piece, dunno what brand, and Rm140-150 per piece for mitsinbo, with another in between, but I just took the mitsinbo, save all the hassle assuming longer live span. I'll say the quality is OK until now, at least from my experience with this 2 items.

Just had all my aux belts changed. 60k km starting to wear off, but changed it since its slipping a bit I guess, and few foreman just don't want to tighten it. I was wondering the new belts are of same number, but come with teeth instead, except the power steering belt as it has to have "tracks".

From one of the belt manufacturer that i'm using, others are Bando.
http://www.globeltint.com/page-23598.html



So from the article I guess my belts are replaced with non-maintenance free and supposingly can run with belt slip? The issue now is cold mornings starts sometimes would have a bit of belt slip for air con belt, which is not there last time before replacement, and is running much looser. Now is quite taut and somemore produces squeel?

Brought it back and foreman claim to be quite tight already, suggest to "break in" before further tightening as further tigthening may hog down the engine.

well, the funny part is that from the price list, the front wiper motor is already having similar price with proton part number.
comparatively to the rear wiper motor, its 1.2k with mitsubishi part number lol.

and i know for a fact Denso Japan parts won't be this cheap.

and yeah, like you, i asked for ori and thats what i gotten
but hey, DIY'ed it, and it is working flawlessly


on your belt part, thats the first i've heard to as afaik aux belts wouldn't have teeth, only tracks o_O
can't remember exactly on mine as i didnt pay much attention when i was replacing mine ("1 shot thing" since i replaced the cam/crank shaft oil seals/timing belt etc to deal with leaks lol)

I am trying to work on an old Iswara that has trouble starting up. It refuses to start despite having a working battery installed. Just cranking sound only. Distributor was changed not more than 3 years ago. So shouldn't be issue an issue I think. Spark plugs are fine even swapped with fresh plugs lying around.

So I narrow down and think the carbie is the problem. I open the air filter and I try to pull the throttle arm. I remember back when I open this last time, there usually will be petrol smell. But now I don't smell any petrol when I pull on the throttle. How should I see whether there is petrol shooting out somewhere when I pull the throttle? I look into the hole in the middle of the carbie and pull the throttle arm and all I see is one piece of metal moving back and forth according to my pull. No petrol smell detected at all.

(Gas tank is arnd half tank according to indicator and I can smell petrol when I open up the petrol cover).



So here is a picture of how the carb look like. When I move the throttle I can see the yellow arrow thing moving back and fro but I don't see any petrol shooting out of anywhere.

Btw, what are the four chimneys as circle in blue is one of them?

This post has been edited by fortuner11: Sep 19 2015, 12:29 PM

just to get some info on my 1996 iswara 1.3 manual sedan in original white colors with full skirting and lmst front lights.......very good condition with all ware and tear part replace, with new ac, both front lower arms, timing and belts, clutch, front tires etc new...........roughly can fetch how much?..........thanks a million

This post has been edited by C2KBAS2005: Sep 19 2015, 12:56 PM

1) The yellow arrow is pointed at the suction piston (controls the venturi opening
according to the vacuum). Attached to it and hidden below is the metering needle
which suppplies petrol in the form of jet only when there is vacuum. Just playing
the throttle will not squirt out petrol from there.

2) The 4 chimneys (1 circled in blue) are vents for communicating outside air to the
suction piston, and for various air bleeds, if I am not mistaken.

3) It is difficult to look for the petrol because it is in the form of vapourised jet,
and the suction piston is blocking the view, and you need to run the engine to
supply the vacuum to draw out the jet.

4) There is a little jet that squirts out petrol for acceleration enrichment, but the
location is also hidden.

5) What you can do (based on my experience with previous car with constant
venturi carb) is this: try to obtain a small quantity of petrol in a small container,
open the suction piston, drip some drops of petrol into the carb, down through
the opening you created. Then release the suction piston and crank the engine.
The engine may start to run erratically for a few seconds (provided the ignition
sytem is ok). I actually sprayed carb-cleaner into the carb, it also works.

6) However, take note that there might be other problems preventing the
engine from firing : anti-dieseling solenoid not working, the jet orifices
jammed (due to petrol becoming gum after long time), ignition system
etc

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 19 2015, 07:04 PM


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Wanto sell liao ar I offer 1000

Don't kill me lar......in 1 or 2 weeks time, I will be driving and maintaining 3cars......hehehe

Ahh!!! Desperate situation ar? Ok la I offer 500

Aside from my joke, the better idea is to find a mean price from Mudah, which is around the price you got your car 3 years back.

http://www.mudah.my/neighbouring-kuala-lum...s&mds=20&mde=20

So, if you really did managed to let go at Mudah price, you'll just as good as having free ride for 3 years other then regular maintenance. Are you considering to release the front disc back to me if you're selling car?