QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
Don't say I purposely go sarcastic on u. Here's a little contribution from my point of view if u value it. Our Clarion is made for bass mid by default. Stock form came with rated 50w x 4 channel output. Preset equalizer are made to perform with bass mid speakers, particularly on low impedance loud speakers @ 4ohm. If u plonk 8ohm speakers, it will strain the built in amplifier 50w/2, but the good thing is u get more stable output(according to my ears) instead of pop corn sound. & generally 8ohm home use speakers are much cheaper than ICE.
Clarion gives good functionality as a stock headunit, output full range signal. The stock 50w x 4 is actually rating for internal amp to almost unable to breath anymore, the actual wattage usually around 22W at 5% THD which means if going down to 1% it will be lower than 22W, squeezing more power gets more distortion, just like asking you to give a speech in a hall without a mic.
Yes you're correct plonk in 8Ohm speaker will get lower power output, it won't strain the amp, just the amp is harder to move that speaker. Car audio usually use the standard 4Ohm is due to the car voltage supply is low, but lots of current so you'll see 4ohm, 2ohm, 1ohm or even go to 0.5ohm for more wattage.
Home speaker and most cheap car speaker weakpoint is the material used will age way faster on bad weather, as you can see most old speaker surround rubber harden and broken.
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
On the side note, usually aeroplane whining noise came with statis charges that goes around the vehicle. 1 of the major culprit is the alternator, as the pulsating charging frequency may jumble up with your signal output. Hence, the higher RPM u go, higher pitch of whining noise u heard. Its not that if u change to aftermarket audio system can eleminate such problem, its about how u wire it up. In order to remove(reduce) static noise from head unit, 1 can opt to add in a small voltage stabilizer before the main power supply to the headunit. Follow up with extra grounding wire that attach directly back to battery -ve pole.
Alternator when on charging does contribute more noise to vehicle, I agree that. I was suggesting replacing the original head unit to aftermarket headunit as a starting is because the original headunit itself has poor noise rejection on the amplifier section or even the headunit itself generating extra noise to the output. With directly to speaker you won't notice it. But when connect such a signal to an amplifier, it amplify many time more from the source, so you'll hear it. And yes cheapo amp doesn't provide good noise rejection on the hi to low converter.
For my case, adding low ESR capacitor as near as possible to the headunit power supply helps, but only reduce the noise, it still there. Replacing to a better design aftermarket headunit eliminates it, so choose which suits you.
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
If u have an external amplifier, make sure the RCA cable are high quality static free type(not those expansive cable that came with noise supressor, instead a pure copper wire that came with quality insulation is suffice). Other than that, the power cable has to be good conductive quality that directly link to your battery terminal. Grounding work, I suggest to use the same material as your power cable, directly link it back to battery -ve terminal instead of chassis grounding. Imagine, usually workshop will ground your amp on the seat mounting if u plonk amp under the seat, to cut cost. When u have a grounding work on seat, the static noise will be amplified as well due to long travelling distance, so as various restriction along the way. Eg.ECU,dashboard instruments,engine itself,CVT,door lamp,headlamp,brake lamp, anything u can name it in the car will make your speaker sound like pop corn, instead of crunchy clean tone.
Pure copper cable with good shielding is a must.
Actually, the original car design use car chassis as a main ground, that is why you can see all the electrical grounding are screw to car body, and people claim adding extra cable from battery to chassis and engine to chassis is to reduce the resistance between car body to alternator and battery, so you'll get brighter light, one kick start, etc improvement. Chassis ground isn't lousy as you think, mostly is because bad contact grounding cable cause it.
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
Last but not least, if u r anal enough. Can use an external relay to trigger the ignition signal. Usually amplifiers came with a control relay that link to headunit to kick start the amp as & when u switch on the HU. U can choose to add an external relay, directly link power supply to the battery +ve terminal, whereas the kick start wire from HU link to the relay itself. Meaning that relay now become your filter, taking clean signal directly from battery instead of HU. We're merely touching the cabling setup. GaGa itself is a bad hardware to begin with, 1 could probably invest up to many thousand on sound proofing to make it a better platform for clean tone.
Don't get mislead by the relay thingy. If you're only use your headunit to turn on the amplifier only, there is no need to add a relay as that signal only turn on the controller in the amplifier, also before the controller there are some noise filter there. Unless you're switching high current application like lightings, fans, custom mechanical parts. Also when using relay, becareful with the relay solenoid current rating, use a small relay will do good as the original headunit control signal are rated 300mA max, pushing beyond will kill the headunit, those headlight relay will drain above 300mA when the solenoid turn on. You also need to becareful on the relay inductive kick back which most of the time you'll hear a tick sound on your sound system when the relay click, sounds annoying and dangerous as the kick back suddenly generate high voltage back to kill your system, remember to install the kick back suppressor, usually a diode or a resistor to tame it.
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
All these cabling works will not cost more than 200 investment, but it will be a good foundation for future mods. U can choose to wire up the system in conventional way, tapping ground work from chassis & use direct ignition signal from HU just like any 1 will do, the nutshell is the limitation of power supply & many static charges going loose in your sound environment.
I'm not an ICE guy, more of a performance lad. U may choose to ignore or correct me if ayam wrong. These are my personal experience from the old days when I spent my entire salary on my old Corolla, on a monthly basis.
coolkwc is a better ICE sifu in my opinion. He may shed u some light.
I wonder huai no pipu pull fat cable to ECU power supply and grounding, adding a capacitor near to the ECU and expect +5hp.