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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la

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n3w
post Nov 17 2014, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(Effy92 @ Nov 17 2014, 12:49 PM)
highway 90kph overtaking sometime 100kph, air con number 1, warmest temp
normal road 70-90kph, if no car always 90kph, no use aircon due to rainy season and night time
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I cant stay that kind of speed at highway, i'll get sleepy. Unless traffic jam or heavy traffic 90km/h would be alright.
TSV12Kompressor
post Nov 17 2014, 09:46 PM

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TiTies

Day: Fly-dei
Date: 21 Nov 2014
Time: 9.00pm onwards

Location: Restoran KINRARA, Sri Petaling (parking here)
GPS Coordinate: 3.070083,101.690922

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gogoman86
post Nov 17 2014, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(Effy92 @ Nov 17 2014, 10:57 AM)
The longest distance ever per tank that I've travel with gaga yesterday.

PJ > Taiping Zoo (highway)
Taiping > Teluk Intan > PJ (normal road)

reach 600km still not lit up yet  brows.gif
[attachmentid=4219979]

low fuel indicator lite up at 604km when i reach office this morning, not fuel up yet.
[attachmentid=4219980]
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QUOTE(Effy92 @ Nov 17 2014, 12:49 PM)
highway 90kph overtaking sometime 100kph, air con number 1, warmest temp
normal road 70-90kph, if no car always 90kph, no use aircon due to rainy season and night time
*
yeah, i believe that because i got the same result last time.
full tank from KL, driving highway to JB, average speed 90 kmph for 340km and just utilise 3 bars (about 109 km per bar) icon_rolleyes.gif

btw, to all bros', and long time no see tongue.gif
missed dunno how many N threads sweat.gif
davidke20
post Nov 17 2014, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Nov 17 2014, 08:24 PM)
whats the size of saga fuel tank? my car usually get 500 or less km from each tank , around rm110+ per tank  cry.gif
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Whole tank is 40litre. Usable 35lit.
Cosef
post Nov 17 2014, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
Don't say I purposely go sarcastic on u. Here's a little contribution from my point of view if u value it. Our Clarion is made for bass mid by default. Stock form came with rated 50w x 4 channel output. Preset equalizer are made to perform with bass mid speakers, particularly on low impedance loud speakers @ 4ohm. If u plonk 8ohm speakers, it will strain the built in amplifier 50w/2, but the good thing is u get more stable output(according to my ears) instead of pop corn sound. & generally 8ohm home use speakers are much cheaper than ICE.
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Clarion gives good functionality as a stock headunit, output full range signal. The stock 50w x 4 is actually rating for internal amp to almost unable to breath anymore, the actual wattage usually around 22W at 5% THD which means if going down to 1% it will be lower than 22W, squeezing more power gets more distortion, just like asking you to give a speech in a hall without a mic.

Yes you're correct plonk in 8Ohm speaker will get lower power output, it won't strain the amp, just the amp is harder to move that speaker. Car audio usually use the standard 4Ohm is due to the car voltage supply is low, but lots of current so you'll see 4ohm, 2ohm, 1ohm or even go to 0.5ohm for more wattage.

Home speaker and most cheap car speaker weakpoint is the material used will age way faster on bad weather, as you can see most old speaker surround rubber harden and broken.

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
On the side note, usually aeroplane whining noise came with statis charges that goes around the vehicle. 1 of the major culprit is the alternator, as the pulsating charging frequency may jumble up with your signal output. Hence, the higher RPM u go, higher pitch of whining noise u heard. Its not that if u change to aftermarket audio system can eleminate such problem, its about how u wire it up. In order to remove(reduce) static noise from head unit, 1 can opt to add in a small voltage stabilizer before the main power supply to the headunit. Follow up with extra grounding wire that attach directly back to battery -ve pole.
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Alternator when on charging does contribute more noise to vehicle, I agree that. I was suggesting replacing the original head unit to aftermarket headunit as a starting is because the original headunit itself has poor noise rejection on the amplifier section or even the headunit itself generating extra noise to the output. With directly to speaker you won't notice it. But when connect such a signal to an amplifier, it amplify many time more from the source, so you'll hear it. And yes cheapo amp doesn't provide good noise rejection on the hi to low converter.

For my case, adding low ESR capacitor as near as possible to the headunit power supply helps, but only reduce the noise, it still there. Replacing to a better design aftermarket headunit eliminates it, so choose which suits you.

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
If u have an external amplifier, make sure the RCA cable are high quality static free type(not those expansive cable that came with noise supressor, instead a pure copper wire that came with quality insulation is suffice). Other than that, the power cable has to be good conductive quality that directly link to your battery terminal. Grounding work, I suggest to use the same material as your power cable, directly link it back to battery -ve terminal instead of chassis grounding. Imagine, usually workshop will ground your amp on the seat mounting if u plonk amp under the seat, to cut cost. When u have a grounding work on seat, the static noise will be amplified as well due to long travelling distance, so as various restriction along the way. Eg.ECU,dashboard instruments,engine itself,CVT,door lamp,headlamp,brake lamp, anything u can name it in the car will make your speaker sound like pop corn, instead of crunchy clean tone.
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Pure copper cable with good shielding is a must. nod.gif
Actually, the original car design use car chassis as a main ground, that is why you can see all the electrical grounding are screw to car body, and people claim adding extra cable from battery to chassis and engine to chassis is to reduce the resistance between car body to alternator and battery, so you'll get brighter light, one kick start, etc improvement. Chassis ground isn't lousy as you think, mostly is because bad contact grounding cable cause it.

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
Last but not least, if u r anal enough. Can use an external relay to trigger the ignition signal. Usually amplifiers came with a control relay that link to headunit to kick start the amp as & when u switch on the HU. U can choose to add an external relay, directly link power supply to the battery +ve terminal, whereas the kick start wire from HU link to the relay itself. Meaning that relay now become your filter, taking clean signal directly from battery instead of HU. We're merely touching the cabling setup. GaGa itself is a bad hardware to begin with, 1 could probably invest up to many thousand on sound proofing to make it a better platform for clean tone.
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Don't get mislead by the relay thingy. If you're only use your headunit to turn on the amplifier only, there is no need to add a relay as that signal only turn on the controller in the amplifier, also before the controller there are some noise filter there. Unless you're switching high current application like lightings, fans, custom mechanical parts. Also when using relay, becareful with the relay solenoid current rating, use a small relay will do good as the original headunit control signal are rated 300mA max, pushing beyond will kill the headunit, those headlight relay will drain above 300mA when the solenoid turn on. You also need to becareful on the relay inductive kick back which most of the time you'll hear a tick sound on your sound system when the relay click, sounds annoying and dangerous as the kick back suddenly generate high voltage back to kill your system, remember to install the kick back suppressor, usually a diode or a resistor to tame it.

QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 07:38 AM)
All these cabling works will not cost more than 200 investment, but it will be a good foundation for future mods. U can choose to wire up the system in conventional way, tapping ground work from chassis & use direct ignition signal from HU just like any 1 will do, the nutshell is the limitation of power supply & many static charges going loose in your sound environment.

I'm not an ICE guy, more of a performance lad. U may choose to ignore or correct me if ayam wrong. These are my personal experience from the old days when I spent my entire salary on my old Corolla, on a monthly basis. coolkwc is a better ICE sifu in my opinion. He may shed u some light.
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I wonder huai no pipu pull fat cable to ECU power supply and grounding, adding a capacitor near to the ECU and expect +5hp. sad.gif



n3w
post Nov 17 2014, 11:34 PM

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Any reasonable usb HU aftermarket would do the trick? Saw some china brand HU around < 300 bucks. Ok or not? Speakers 2 unit maybe invest in better ones. tongue.gif
Bazinga!
post Nov 17 2014, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(Effy92 @ Nov 17 2014, 10:57 AM)
The longest distance ever per tank that I've travel with gaga yesterday.

PJ > Taiping Zoo (highway)
Taiping > Teluk Intan > PJ (normal road)

reach 600km still not lit up yet  brows.gif
[attachmentid=4219979]

low fuel indicator lite up at 604km when i reach office this morning, not fuel up yet.
[attachmentid=4219980]
*
wah, mine before 300 already time to isi. too many traffic light launching and cucuking haih..
nzh0920
post Nov 17 2014, 11:49 PM

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QUOTE(DonMe @ Nov 17 2014, 08:45 PM)
Oh ya.... But why he ask saga... Faint... shakehead.gif
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haha, find some friend to chat in forum ma, inspira forum quite dead now cause mostly move to whatsapp biggrin.gif
nzh0920
post Nov 17 2014, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 17 2014, 10:08 PM)
Whole tank is 40litre. Usable 35lit.
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woah, then it's quite fuel saving, my swift 1.5 4AT, every time pump around 35 liters also, usually 400km or less need to refuel d blink.gif
Cosef
post Nov 17 2014, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(n3w @ Nov 17 2014, 11:34 PM)
Any reasonable usb HU aftermarket would do the trick? Saw some china brand HU around < 300 bucks. Ok or not? Speakers  2 unit maybe invest in better ones. tongue.gif
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Don't cincai invest in china brand HU, some can be worst than original. Better go for Pioneer or Alpine entry level, they do the job well, so really worth it.

Speaker get Mohawk coaxial replace all 4 speakers ok liao or you can find a tweeter pod like this to fit a component set at front. If not into heavy ICE I suggest keep it simple will sound better.
dares
post Nov 18 2014, 12:01 AM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Nov 17 2014, 11:49 PM)
haha, find some friend to chat in forum ma, inspira forum quite dead now cause mostly move to whatsapp  biggrin.gif
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So u come siram this thread to overtake Insapla tered issit? thumbup.gif
nzh0920
post Nov 18 2014, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Nov 18 2014, 12:01 AM)
So u come siram this thread to overtake Insapla tered issit?  thumbup.gif
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tongue.gif to makes new fren also la, lol
Quazacolt
post Nov 18 2014, 12:33 AM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Nov 17 2014, 11:49 PM)
haha, find some friend to chat in forum ma, inspira forum quite dead now cause mostly move to whatsapp  biggrin.gif
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champion driver/car banyak free laugh.gif
Bazinga!
post Nov 18 2014, 01:30 AM

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QUOTE(Cosef @ Nov 17 2014, 11:54 PM)
Don't cincai invest in china brand HU, some can be worst than original. Better go for Pioneer or Alpine entry level, they do the job well, so really worth it.

Speaker get Mohawk coaxial replace all 4 speakers ok liao or you can find a tweeter pod like this to fit a component set at front. If not into heavy ICE I suggest keep it simple will sound better.
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n3w i dont know other shops price, but last time i change for kancil HU i amik kenwood, siap with usb and ipod playing features, also less than 250 bro. pasang kedai abang charge rm30(expensive) but oh well.
now i saw some entry level pioneer kenwood at kedai abang less than 200 dy. u need jalan2 check bro hahaha
go malim brothers, alot choices biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Bazinga!: Nov 18 2014, 01:50 AM
davidke20
post Nov 18 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(Cosef @ Nov 17 2014, 10:14 PM)
I wonder huai no pipu pull fat cable to ECU power supply and grounding, adding a capacitor near to the ECU and expect +5hp.  sad.gif
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You sound like a pro. Anyways, those are only my personal opinion, not necessarily fit all.

Adding capacitor will not alter ECU fuel mapping, however adding resistor to intake MAP sensor will nod.gif
davidke20
post Nov 18 2014, 08:01 AM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Nov 17 2014, 11:50 PM)
woah, then it's quite fuel saving, my swift 1.5 4AT, every time pump around 35 liters also, usually 400km or less need to refuel d  blink.gif
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Running a 1.5 4AT dinosaur, 35lit for 400km in city drive is considerably reasonable fuel save. Try a Kampro 1.3 with 4AT iskazulka whistling.gif For that 35lit on city I think around 220km ady fuel warning dao until wanna picah desbod liao whistling.gif
iskazulka
post Nov 18 2014, 08:18 AM

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koreksyen. 35L x 9km/L = 315km sleep.gif
nzh0920 mine average 9km/L in town driving. btw, in town driving i usually pump about 28.69L = rm66.00. when fuel lit up, average gaga fuel got about 8L less. so usually gaga refuel 32L full tank.
9km/L average for light footed, warmest aircond temp settings. could get 220km only for 28.69L full tank IF my gaga set aircond temp to half.

This post has been edited by iskazulka: Nov 18 2014, 08:31 AM
DonMe
post Nov 18 2014, 09:33 AM

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Anyone tried replacing the bulb inside the AC cluster? Found 1 of the bulb fused on my saga. sad.gif
nzh0920
post Nov 18 2014, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 18 2014, 08:01 AM)
Running a 1.5 4AT dinosaur, 35lit for 400km in city drive is considerably reasonable fuel save. Try a Kampro 1.3 with 4AT iskazulka whistling.gif For that 35lit on city I think around 220km ady fuel warning dao until wanna picah desbod liao whistling.gif
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woot.... 220km, blink.gif susah to accept, lol
iskazulka
post Nov 18 2014, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Nov 18 2014, 01:06 PM)
woot.... 220km,  blink.gif susah to accept, lol
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well then, go to corner and suck thumb like the rest (s@ni & Quazacolt) whistling.gif

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