QUOTE(Cosef @ Nov 16 2014, 10:20 PM)
Use teh steering controller
Just remember don't simply link ori head unit to an cheap amp, usually you will get extra whinning noise while getting more power.
Start changing the headunit or just directly replace the speaker with good installation workmanship will give better results.
Don't say I purposely go sarcastic on u. Here's a little contribution from my point of view if u value it. Our Clarion is made for bass mid by default. Stock form came with rated 50w x 4 channel output. Preset equalizer are made to perform with bass mid speakers, particularly on low impedance loud speakers @ 4ohm. If u plonk 8ohm speakers, it will strain the built in amplifier 50w/2, but the good thing is u get more stable output(according to my ears) instead of pop corn sound. & generally 8ohm home use speakers are much cheaper than ICE.
On the side note, usually aeroplane whining noise came with statis charges that goes around the vehicle. 1 of the major culprit is the alternator, as the pulsating charging frequency may jumble up with your signal output. Hence, the higher RPM u go, higher pitch of whining noise u heard. Its not that if u change to aftermarket audio system can eleminate such problem, its about how u wire it up. In order to remove(reduce) static noise from head unit, 1 can opt to add in a small voltage stabilizer before the main power supply to the headunit. Follow up with extra grounding wire that attach directly back to battery -ve pole.
If u have an external amplifier, make sure the RCA cable are high quality static free type(not those expansive cable that came with noise supressor, instead a pure copper wire that came with quality insulation is suffice). Other than that, the power cable has to be good conductive quality that directly link to your battery terminal. Grounding work, I suggest to use the same material as your power cable, directly link it back to battery -ve terminal instead of chassis grounding. Imagine, usually workshop will ground your amp on the seat mounting if u plonk amp under the seat, to cut cost. When u have a grounding work on seat, the static noise will be amplified as well due to long travelling distance, so as various restriction along the way. Eg.ECU,dashboard instruments,engine itself,CVT,door lamp,headlamp,brake lamp, anything u can name it in the car will make your speaker sound like pop corn, instead of crunchy clean tone.
Last but not least, if u r anal enough. Can use an external relay to trigger the ignition signal. Usually amplifiers came with a control relay that link to headunit to kick start the amp as & when u switch on the HU. U can choose to add an external relay, directly link power supply to the battery +ve terminal, whereas the kick start wire from HU link to the relay itself. Meaning that relay now become your filter, taking clean signal directly from battery instead of HU. We're merely touching the cabling setup. GaGa itself is a bad hardware to begin with, 1 could probably invest up to many thousand on sound proofing to make it a better platform for clean tone.
All these cabling works will not cost more than 200 investment, but it will be a good foundation for future mods. U can choose to wire up the system in conventional way, tapping ground work from chassis & use direct ignition signal from HU just like any 1 will do, the nutshell is the limitation of power supply & many static charges going loose in your sound environment.
I'm not an ICE guy, more of a performance lad. U may choose to ignore or correct me if ayam wrong. These are my personal experience from the old days when I spent my entire salary on my old Corolla, on a monthly basis.
coolkwc is a better ICE sifu in my opinion. He may shed u some light.
Nov 16 2014, 09:48 PM
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. but still dont want to lose the steering controls. unless i change/swap steering with saga flx standard ones, or remove those controls
I tot it's European cuntry geh? Czech Republic or sumting 
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