new thread liao

Added grounding to my car, there are two points actually, from engine head to chassis and chassis to battery ground.

The engine felt a little more quiet and a little more power, stock headunit FM sounds better too.
The effect wasn't so big like I did on Persona and BLM last time.

There are space to fit in a double din headunit if you took off the ori headunit with the tray. But the look is like wadafuq only. Alternative if you got more budget you can go for this kind, but it hard to find.

Suggest you go for Pioneer headunit as the functions and speed are good.

For single din player it looked okay, but if you want to install double din player into the compartment, you need a good installer to do it well else there will be look like installing a wall unit aircond in a kampung house.

It is because the saga center console is curvy type, and aftermarket player are flat face so will easily expose big gaps, but a good modification on mounting plate can make it fit good.

You can try the seller that V12Kompressor recommend.

Yay

Yes, but i at KL here cari makan.

I'm mostly into ICE section, less on performance.

Your budget boleh tahan sampai brapa?

You can install a steering controller for aftermarket headunit but that thing is quite expensive as it can be used on other car.

I'm still in the middle cracking my head how to mod my car audio.

Suggest you change headunit and speaker only will do. Stock headunit looks fit only, doesn't sound good and radio reception not as good as aftermarket headunit.

Use teh steering controller

Just remember don't simply link ori head unit to an cheap amp, usually you will get extra whinning noise while getting more power.

Start changing the headunit or just directly replace the speaker with good installation workmanship will give better results.

Go for local brand, Mohawk or Uncle Sam.
What I experienced it is real good for the price.

Great question, I have no idea about the dealer but I remember there is a good reputation Mohawk dealer in shah alam here.

Mohawk is actually a brand of Kicker, then later on bought by malaysian and fully became a malaysian brand.

Clarion gives good functionality as a stock headunit, output full range signal. The stock 50w x 4 is actually rating for internal amp to almost unable to breath anymore, the actual wattage usually around 22W at 5% THD which means if going down to 1% it will be lower than 22W, squeezing more power gets more distortion, just like asking you to give a speech in a hall without a mic.

Yes you're correct plonk in 8Ohm speaker will get lower power output, it won't strain the amp, just the amp is harder to move that speaker. Car audio usually use the standard 4Ohm is due to the car voltage supply is low, but lots of current so you'll see 4ohm, 2ohm, 1ohm or even go to 0.5ohm for more wattage.

Home speaker and most cheap car speaker weakpoint is the material used will age way faster on bad weather, as you can see most old speaker surround rubber harden and broken.

Alternator when on charging does contribute more noise to vehicle, I agree that. I was suggesting replacing the original head unit to aftermarket headunit as a starting is because the original headunit itself has poor noise rejection on the amplifier section or even the headunit itself generating extra noise to the output. With directly to speaker you won't notice it. But when connect such a signal to an amplifier, it amplify many time more from the source, so you'll hear it. And yes cheapo amp doesn't provide good noise rejection on the hi to low converter.

For my case, adding low ESR capacitor as near as possible to the headunit power supply helps, but only reduce the noise, it still there. Replacing to a better design aftermarket headunit eliminates it, so choose which suits you.

Pure copper cable with good shielding is a must.
Actually, the original car design use car chassis as a main ground, that is why you can see all the electrical grounding are screw to car body, and people claim adding extra cable from battery to chassis and engine to chassis is to reduce the resistance between car body to alternator and battery, so you'll get brighter light, one kick start, etc improvement. Chassis ground isn't lousy as you think, mostly is because bad contact grounding cable cause it.

Don't get mislead by the relay thingy. If you're only use your headunit to turn on the amplifier only, there is no need to add a relay as that signal only turn on the controller in the amplifier, also before the controller there are some noise filter there. Unless you're switching high current application like lightings, fans, custom mechanical parts. Also when using relay, becareful with the relay solenoid current rating, use a small relay will do good as the original headunit control signal are rated 300mA max, pushing beyond will kill the headunit, those headlight relay will drain above 300mA when the solenoid turn on. You also need to becareful on the relay inductive kick back which most of the time you'll hear a tick sound on your sound system when the relay click, sounds annoying and dangerous as the kick back suddenly generate high voltage back to kill your system, remember to install the kick back suppressor, usually a diode or a resistor to tame it.

I wonder huai no pipu pull fat cable to ECU power supply and grounding, adding a capacitor near to the ECU and expect +5hp.

Don't cincai invest in china brand HU, some can be worst than original. Better go for Pioneer or Alpine entry level, they do the job well, so really worth it.

Speaker get Mohawk coaxial replace all 4 speakers ok liao or you can find a tweeter pod like this to fit a component set at front. If not into heavy ICE I suggest keep it simple will sound better.

Aiyok this week tak dapat come TT, banyak appointment.

Front component set, rear coaxial speaker plus tukar headunit.

Front component set use bundle tweeter pod put close to end of dashboard, midbass kasi plastic baffle screw on ok liao.

Rear coaxial speaker use double tape gao dim, cukup solid and no rattle lagi compared to screw on with 2 screws

Change all to good coaxial speaker, skip headunit upgrade.

For sake of good sound, can squeeze out some budget one lah

Eh how about try the seat height adjustment?

When I got few settings back I always get neck pain and back pain just 20mins driving, after some adjustment again then no more already especially the seat height.

Ah, this one I try to attend this TT

A steering wheel cover can help