Means it's not properly dried yet or ready to be buff off. Had the same experience once too. Got fed up and told myself I'd try/re-do again the next day. Next morning....late morning...it buffed off with ease with only a couple of swipes with a ww drying cloth. Next round I tried again applying in the evening and leave it overnight, able to get better durability and water beads flew off faster too. Been doing it like that ever since.

Yes master.. After polished windscreen being cleaned and wipe down before apply rainX..

Am using glass polishing pad and Osren windscreen polish quartz something forgot name ady..

Then maybe like 1 bro said, your screen is not clean enough.

I have tried other water repellent products, I didn't even polish it and yet it can repel water nicely.

Maybe you can try krismas's suggested method of letting it on over-night.

Anyone ?? ((

no issue with rainx for me. cheap and cheerful, easily last more than half a year.
videos feel free to find my youtube.

lol i OCD a bit, if i'm REALLY into it, leave overnight, re apply, and slightly wipe with dry paper towel on the slight haze.

it will still be hazy, i just drive a little slower and my vision isn't that impaired to be able to see properly

i do almost all my applications at night too... personally i'd leave it

however for safety purposes, obviously wipe off hazing until you can see the road properly.
i prefer to wipe dry, however this will be harder to wipe off/deal with the hazing compared to wet as sifu krismas suggested earlier.

wouldn't plastx meant for plastics?
i don't think it's meant for CDs?
and have you cleaned your car properly prior to application and were instructions followed carefully?

megs consumer series among the most noob friendly products provided if you follow proper instructions.

google/search this thread/previous version for more information on coating, as well as basic steps on car maintenance.
coating won't be destroyed by wax, however with polishing, you would most likely shave off layers of the coating (or clear coat if there's not coating) and eventually the coating will be too thin to matter at all, or without coating, very thin/gone clear coat that you may need to perform a respray.
This is however very unlikely if you're using mild polishes and most importantly follow proper steps/instructions.

i drive a black car too and i can tell you that stone chips/flying rocks are inevitable, especially when i am a speed junkie that goes well over 200kph easily when the highways are free.
if you're that afraid, consider just trying out the paint protection film. good luck in DIY'ing the film, as i believe they need to have a proper environment for the film to be able to properly wrap to the car (as well as prior paint cleaning/correction so you don't seal in any imperfections.)
some random pictures:



as for individual products:
1) awesome stuff if it's the xtreme series with neon lime color and turns red/dark red/purple ish upon taking effect.
the latest formulation isn't as strong i'd reckon.

2) no idea.
3) no idea.
4) no idea, i used megs professional series M101

5) does as advertised, i use this after M101 (or megs ultimate compound)

6) no idea.

7) good shine, good beads, ease of application, decent pricing. a little bad on the durability, but this is great as a topper as it's a no brainer to apply. Would not recommend standalone application.
i would recommend getting another "base wax" such as the ultimate paste wax (or liquid if you're planning to have a machine), and have Sonax Brilliant shine detailer (Sonax BSD for short as it's called here) as a topper instead.

krismas Sifu,
Last time we talked about how UQD having minor solvent, i believe that's for ease of removing stains/dirt etc right? however the drawback is that it may portentially eat away existing LSP.

what other QD products would you recommend that cleans as good, if not better than UQD without the solvent? dodo juice red mist?

I'm also quite fond of the minor LSP that UQD offers, what other products would have it and still fulfill it's main objective of cleaning?

It is meant for clear plastic and for CD, the plastic part is one of kind of a clear plastic. I even experimented on clear CD case and it created a lot of micro marring even with the lightest pressure and polished until it become almost clear. I saw quite a number of people encounter Plastx micro marring problem too.

I have clean those thing by wash ->clay ->wash -> then plastx for the rear light. no help at all..
i knew meg consumer line is noob friendly, that's why i bought almost all of the consumer line products and I have no problem eliminate those micro swirls by UC and UP using hand alone but not this plastx.

I saw people said to use elbow grease, does that mean that i need to put more pressure to use Plastx? asking because even the lightest pressure already marred the surface, not dare to push further. Maybe someone have experienced with plastx could share here?

never used plastx so i couldn't comment further.

if UC/UP is ok with you, consider just sticking with those

Sorry for the late reply.

Haven't tried (nor heard of) any other quick detailer that can clean as good or better than UQD/M135 other than DDJ Red Mist (original version....not the Tropical version). And talking about solvent, DDJ RM is FLAMABLE!!!

Anyway, if you're looking for something that's a good cleaner (like UQD), you can't really expect it not to have any effect on existing LSP (unless the LSP is a coating)...especially in our kind of dirty environment. I'd rather let the QD remove the contaminated layer of LSP rather than sealing the dirt between it.....

damn really? you tried burning that thing? lol

I've heard about some difficulty on original red mist in our weather (which is why they came out the tropical version anyways) so confidence level isn't high for the DDJ RM.

but yeah, that's what i feared actually.
hence why i seek you (and others, if any more input) on good QD's, and UQD/M135 (probably will be getting a gallon of this i guess) seems like the lesser of evils because i do a LOT of cleaning considering my speed (rock/bug/bird or whatever flying thing droppings) cravings.
>200kph from Singapore to like Petronas Air Keroh RSA North bound, my entire front windscreen/bonnet/bumper are etched with f*** ton of droppings, bugs, shattered rocks, some minor tar as well... and they are etched so deep that EVEN UQD had some trouble to clean them off (i assume it's the intense speed/wind pressure pressing them contaminants further into the LSP/paint.

another idea is that, if UQD can make up for the minor loss of LSP with it's own included minor LSP (as some people also used UQD as UQW before, lol), i think it isn't so bad. It's what i've practiced for many years and just butt itchy to try out something else.
But if it is what works, i guess don't need to fix what isn't broken.

much thanks sifu for the reassurance

Hmmm... I am confused. I thought all QD just clean, that's why I do some spray wax most of the time.

I have a few different QD. Have anyone tried Mothers's Showtime? http://www.mothers.com/02_products/08224.html

no exp with mother's.

but in case you're not familiar with megs UQD, it has minor LSP too in which if you can recall from previous posts/thread versions, there are people who used UQD as a WOWO after wash to speed up drying due to it's hydrophobic lsp properties (similar to UQW, except UQW is the more "proper method", and cheaper AFAIK)

it does however has a minor drawback of having solvent (which is why it cleans so f***ing good), which does eat into the LSP eventually.

to put it simply, UQD is like among the best "AIO" QD that does it's purpose of cleaning well, and then some added LSP. (to make up for it's solvent i guess)

The M135, do we need to dilute it first??

Ermm....actually....yes...when I received my 1st bottle a few years back....with a lighter....it.s like having a small flame thrower....

There's normal QD and there's UQD. Normal QD just cleans but UQD also contains 'beading booster'. Doesn't last as long....maybe only a wash or two. But it can do one heck of a cleaning and can even clean those that can't be clean by normal wash. Dirt stain or marks....no problem. I've seen it turned a yellowish white coloured myvi to *almost* its original white....

Oh....the Mother's is more like UQW or OCWax....it's a spray wax and not technically a QD.

UQW is cheaper? Well....maybe cheaper 'per bottle'.....but check out the size/volume....

Nope. It's RTU (Ready To Use).

sounds like a lot of fun

and yes that's why i've stuck with it (aside from me being a lazy ass and still using the FIRST DAMN BOTTLE that i've bought 2-3 years ago when i started getting into detailing) for so long.
I've brought up the topic again since my in car bottle and my in house bottle is getting low, which i am looking for possibilities on alternatives, which after this short discussion, looks like i am back to it again

like certain stains, other QD/shampoo just won't get it off. some UQD and voila, gone.
and the amount of bugs/bird dropping i have to deal with after a genting run is just INSANE.
ever seen a bug squished so hard that the carapace became completely flat and the innard/juice (dried btw) got splattered in a circular "upward arrow" pattern so large of a radius it's around twice the bug's size? yea, lots of those, and they stick HARD to the surface
i have no doubt bug and tar remover could get it, but then i'd have to deal with the petroleum/oily residue or the fact that it'll definitely ravage through my existing LSP considering it's cleaning power.

it's a dilemma i've always faced in my passion for car, detailing and motorsport/need for speed are natural enemies

hmm didn't actually realize the bottle volume lol.
i'm sure we had that discussion far back either last version or the previous version (shouldn't be this version)
my time really flies... it's like time goes at 200km/h while i'm just walking at the roadside at like 1km/h haha

I was used PlastX for my car headlights. It's work well for headlight white spot. It's also remove the headlight scratches. Finally my car headlights were turned to clear again. However, don't apply this product to new cars. Old car then is ok lah. Since the moment you are keep polishing will make the headlights surface leave swirl marks.