That's a misconception for racing oils from Motul/Liqui Moly as they have very high detergent/dispersant and TBN

what you say holds true for older racing oils like Torco/Redline or even AMSOIL where their TBN values are actually very low.

Highest TBN yes, as what my UOA also proven.
But those TBN are mainly detergents and dispersant, for long/extended UOA.

I don't need that so that TBN is irrelevant to me. It merely supports/proven that AMSOIL claims of 25k miles (or well over 40k km) /1 year whichever first OCI marketing holds truth.

That test you've seen (iinm that Russian) is merely an oil being heated up and discolored.
That doesn't hold much ground or value but I believe they have also did wear testing and flow testing subsequently similarly to project farm and I believe 300v hold it's ground (can't remember perfectly if they updated testing for the 300v or was it other lineup)

The Project Farm test that I posted above didn't use the 300v but the 8100 and it's beaten just in the first round so still not looking good for Motul, also Liqui Moly which was also eliminated in the first round.

Still for oils costing as expensive as the 300v I expected a lot out of it and should not be beaten by mineral oils costing less than half of it in the heat test.

Amsoil on the other hand seems very well rounded on a high level in all characteristics, more than good enough for practically any street cars with much more reasonable prices to boot.

Look at the overall data instead of who's beaten on which round la lol

And Motul 8100 was against Penrite PAO Ester fully synthetic and they are pretty good themselves been around since 1926 and rather big in Australia, just not on a world scale.
Liqui Moly Was also against Amazon basics fully synthetic that's OEM by another old time O&G company (can't remember the name)
Both competition weren't mineral oil at all lol.

The cost may or may not be justifiable for some (like you) and I did mentioned on diminishing returns also.
I'm totally not saying AMSOIL is bad, I've used them as well and still do for my household Nissan Sentra/Kancil for their annual OCI.
I've just having other priorities in performance vehicles that gets heavily abused by an ignorant/lousy driver like me

In that project farm test, the overall result comparison also shows nothing special of the Motul 8100 and LM Top Tec.

I meant the 300v showed bad in the heat test in the other Russian test while some other mineral oils like the Toyota oil actually withstand the heat better.

You different la, very manja the cars so using very expensive top oils even for low end cars. I just use cheap promotional  oils from Giant/Tesco on my cars, poor me. 😅

There's also recent API /SAE recent studies on LSPI, and AMSOIL overdosing calcium could be a concern for high performance/direct Injection vehicles.

I thought got revised formulation?

Even if Got also AMSOIL signature series won't be API certified - too much additives lol

And I didn't know AMSOIL is SN Plus ( to deal with LSPI) yet

But after all, it is their "claim" la....although i didn't see this statement some years ago when i visited their website. Maybe they did something, may need to dig through bitog for newer version of VOA if available.

halo bening
i have questions & seek for honest answers.  i own a honda civic fb 2012, milage 165k & running. been using 0w20 fully syn honda oil ever since. but some people including mechanics recommend to change to 10w40 or 5w40 semi synth (due to whatever reason they might think eg old engine, long distance travel, etc etc)

1. is it safe for me to stick with 0w20 until only God knows when?
2. if need to change to other grades / viscos, what things should i consider?
3. suggestion (it can be any brand)

many thanks!

I love my vehicles ma what to do
I also actually use cheap Lazada/Tesco/giant promotional oils for my Sentra (this one more towards if I can get 0w20 on promo)/Iswara as well as they leak engine oil

Actually how good /bad are those Tesco oils (ex the blue bottle Shell 10w40 semi compared to the Tesco OEM 10w50 oil)?

Hi guys, im switching from 20w50 to 10w40
I feel better on performance but there is a lot smoke(white color) coming out from exhaust pipe.

If that mean the oil not thick enuf?
and i need tp switch back immediately or should be fine to wait until 6k mileage?

Mycar: iswara with 75k mileage

halo bening
i have questions & seek for honest answers.  i own a honda civic fb 2012, milage 165k & running. been using 0w20 fully syn honda oil ever since. but some people including mechanics recommend to change to 10w40 or 5w40 semi synth (due to whatever reason they might think eg old engine, long distance travel, etc etc)

1. is it safe for me to stick with 0w20 until only God knows when?
2. if need to change to other grades / viscos, what things should i consider?
3. suggestion (it can be any brand)

many thanks!

Hi guys, totally new in EO here.

Wanna ask what's the difference for different brand like Mobil 1/liqui moly/chemlube/torco/idemitsu/Castrol egde/any good brands you guys may suggest

How do I choose what's best for my Honda accord 8th gen (Perdana type) if I am going for fully synthetic?

Actually how good /bad are those Tesco oils (ex the blue bottle Shell 10w40 semi compared to the Tesco OEM 10w50 oil)?

I have a question. I did search but did not see any similar topic asked before, so apologies if it did.

Does the same spec oil with different API have an impact on the engine? 2 different brand of 20W-50 mineral oil but one with API of SJ and the other is SG which is obselete. If i use the one with SG, will it have any negative effect on the engine?

Thanks.