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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:18 PM)
as i been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??

[attachmentid=4133796]
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is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly tongue.gif )
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:15 PM)
Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.
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hmm it's diesel certification seems a bit obsolete:
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1389027113

http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf

however with the rather high TBN, and BMW specification/approvals, i guess you'll still be fine.
but yeah as you said, diesel engine oil that's specific to performance is rather rare and most of them are not properly certified (at least on the diesel portion)

if possible, do consider publishing UOA's tongue.gif
i can consider organizing bulk to save everyone (and my own) shipping cost
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ Sep 14 2014, 10:30 PM)
ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh,  sad.gif  sad.gif
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will do, will post/tag updates for you/everyone nod.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 14 2014, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Sep 14 2014, 10:39 PM)
What's UOA?

I am actually more interested in the 300v Racing 5w40 from Motul for track days. Dropped Motul a message to see if there are any issues with this oil with my car's current engine.
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used oil analysis, may refer to this bro:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

i'm currently running on motul 300v 0w20 at the moment, will be sending mine for another analysis after run 7k km nod.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 15 2014, 02:57 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 15 2014, 01:47 AM)
wow you really went-on on an extreme path in your EO thingys.  first thing i wanna ask, what's TBN (quick search shows Total Base Number) stands/mean for? see you and the report equates that higher number = oil can use longer..

what's the cost of this analysis? you've to send the oil sample all the way to Fort Wayne, Indiana from malaysia here?? malaysia no such analysis lab ah? like SGS or something..  but anyway, good info from you bro~! notworthy.gif mainly on the oil additives part.  you know i poured in ceratec into my 40k km engine last time (after heavily poisoned by you whistling.gif this thread (v1), some other local bloggers, online reads, etc).  i didn't felt even a slightest change/improvement! haha, i always told myself well, because my engine still very new, and always change oil on time, so the condition inside the engine still very nice and therefore the ceratec can't improve much things.  after that i did once poured in BlueChem Nano Engine Super Protection, after 10k of ceratec.  this is the only brand of engine additive that's supported (actually distributed) by my SC.  still, didn't felt any improvement.  *felt as in butt dyno here.  i've ever since slowed down on my affection on oil additives, or to the extend of engine oil choices in general.  since i want to keep my service/warranty record sparkling clean, i can only use the brand supported by my SC, which is, Shell.  already claimed 1 unit of speed/ABS sensor, FOC, so i value my warranty lols.

anyway, one of my friend who's driving wira SE (7yrs old car?), before that he was using Shell HX-7 10w40 semi.  then i ask him to change to LM 15w40 MOS2 Mineral, he did said he felt the power pickup (from example go from traffic light) is better than before, and the FC does improved a bit.  hopefully its not placebo.. he has since using that LM after that, as it is cheaper (mineral vs semi) and it feels better than Shell's.
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here tongue.gif
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number

the total cost is around 230+ including that hefty postal fee that's even more expensive than the analysis cost itself.
i'd look for local labs, except they cost between 300-400+ from the quotations i've been given.
until i can find local labs who does this, i guess there's no choice but to send samples all the way to USA.

i don't think I've contacted SGS yet, so yeap i've done exactly that via email just now: http://www.sgs.my/en/Automotive/Vehicles-a...t-Analysis.aspx

as for additives, it is unfortunate that they do not have better methods to test for other elements (eg: ceramic) and the usefulness of it.
as per BSL's Amanda mentioned, it's ok to go with or without additives. they may or may not help, it's ultimately up to individual preferences/engines (types, conditions etc) and so on.
i would never know how my engine is without ws2/ceratec since i immediately used them on the first service (yes a bit stupid i know when it comes to objectively trying out things), i guess i was just way too impatient.

it's going to take a damn long while before i return to amsoil just to see if ws2/ceratec made it smoother, or it's very capable by it's own since OCI's for inspira are 10k km, and i got a pretty decent stockpile of Motul's 300v sweat.gif

btw don't be too easy going on additives that's officially distributed by SC's. proton had X1R and it finally caused serious issues on the CFE engines (and who knows how slow of a death the NA campros are faring all these while, which may have been one of the cause to proton's reputation for "building shit engines")

remember, no matter what elements/material additives used, generally they'd still require a carrier, and to maximize profits, said carriers are typically mineral oil and that's what cause most of the issues on engines as with the case with X1R.
reference:
user posted image

well, using EO from SC aint so bad if you're not an enthusiast.
the only drawback is the obvious higher pricing than market (eg: tesco tongue.gif )
so long you're on the full synthetics that's API SN certified, it's hard to go wrong nod.gif

imho, LM's MOS2 additive isn't a placebo.
however in my pursuit for better lubricants, i soon come to realize that it's actually more economical to run full synthetics at longer oil change intervals.

imagine liqui moly at 5k km ~rm120/bottle
10k km is 240 + 2 oil filters and 2 labor charges.

a full synthetic like amsoil that cost rm180 (or less if you're not going for the high end signature series) can easily push 40k km (25k miles rofl or 24k km/15k miles under severe usage as specified by amsoil), but lets put 10k km for the sake of comparison.

see the comparison now?
arguably, LM MOS2 semi synthetic can be used past 5k km, however in my own experiences, ~5-6k km the performance would begin to degrade while in full synthetics, going way beyond 10k km is never an issue in any of the vehicles in my household.

with all that said though, i still use MOS2 for my kancil, as it had 10k km originally specified even for older API specifications and back then everyone was on mineral oil.
supposedly, the 660cc 3 cylinder wouldn't have much blowby/contaminants so it does make sense for the longer OCI.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 22 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 08:45 AM)
yup that made sense too. how about the oil filter? need special ones or the normal one can last more than 10k?
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you can always change them halfway; you do not drain your engine oil entirely during oil filter replacement.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 22 2014, 03:04 PM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 09:47 AM)
ic. still need 2 filters. got it.
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most car manufacturers still use back the same filter and have 10k km oci, so it's only 2 filters if you're pushing beyond the regular (that most SC uses) 10k km
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 23 2014, 01:20 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 22 2014, 11:39 PM)
ic. usually fully syn can go beyond that (10k) without any problem?
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most reputable API SN certified fully synthetics have no problem going beyond 10k km.
amsoil signature series 0w20 i used was labeled to go between 25-40k km/1 year whichever first.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 23 2014, 09:36 AM

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QUOTE(fixgd @ Sep 23 2014, 06:59 AM)
yeah heard bout that too. thats not just some marketing gimmick?
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QUOTE(izso @ Sep 23 2014, 07:58 AM)
Those labels take into consideration of the country and weather. Try that in Malaysian weather and humidity I guarantee your car will have issues in the long run if you constantly use the same oil and OCI.
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while i have yet to try extreme extended OCI myself (heck, i don't think i can even achieve such high mileage within a year), the UOA report i've included at the first page should be self explanatory.

There are also links/guides/wiki on how to read the UOA report, but if you want a summary here:
my engine oil after 8500km and ~7ish months of usage came out having more detergent/additives than most engine oil being NEW, now how's that for a surprise?
in fact, despite such decently long usage, it has more TBN than torco's SR1 being new according to torco's manufacturer data spec/sheet. (6.6 TBN vs 6.2 TBN)
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 24 2014, 02:09 PM

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efaceninja
Mahihi

update: been more than 10 days, no reply from maxx oil or SGS, lol.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 25 2014, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 25 2014, 07:42 AM)
API SL fully synthetic oil (PAO formulation) vs API SN fully synthetic (highly refined group 3 oil)..

Which is better?
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SN; If the PAO based stock SL is good enough, surely they can be certified for SN as well, if it isn't, then that means it just isn't good enough.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 27 2014, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 27 2014, 09:33 AM)
I asked because i noted that Honda fully synthetic oil with PAO formulation is graded SL is is selling a lot more expensive than the Honda SN fully synthetic oil. There must be something in which the SL oil is better than the SN.
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not always the more expensive product is better.
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 1 2014, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 1 2014, 11:16 AM)
i just bought shell helix hx7 10w-40 4L at RM110 to service my saga 2005 model car. i felt conned.

How much is the market price now?
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tesco parallel import and currently under promotion got full synthetic Shell Helix Ultra with the new pureplus technology at RM129.
normal price was 24x or 22x lol
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 1 2014, 08:21 PM

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Matrix
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...brandName=tesco
really a?
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 2 2014, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 1 2014, 11:31 PM)
BTW you sent your oil sample to us to do analysis?
How much is it and how much it cost?
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uh wut?

well the posts/links did mention the pricing numerous time but its ok no harm repeating:
usd35 for UOA, poslaju about rm120
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 2 2014, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(dstl1128 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:22 AM)
yes it is despite the email exchange i had with them biggrin.gif

see, even with all the difficulties and inconvenience, costing etc, it is still important to have proper certification so that you can strengthen trust with your customers nod.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 7 2014, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 08:00 AM)
Getting my absurdly expensive 8 bottles of Motul DCTF for the Evo X. Only 280 dollars inclusive of shipping. Farkin mahal. I haven't even bought the filter yet for the transmission.

Considering draining the BMW's transmission and replacing with Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil as very fast shifts into certain gears seems rough and hard on the synchros. Other than that there doesn't seem to be many issues either way.
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going to be replacing my redline MTL as well... this time running without additives for a change.

happen to get them cheap on yesterday's SMART event at one Utama for RM48/quart (regular pricing ranges between rm55-65/quart)
https://www.facebook.com/1Utama/posts/10152316405381689

swept their last 4 bottles of MTL when they were closing at 8pm lol.


probably replacing the gear oil after Sepang, after more wear is induced and then 1 shot drain all of the wear/shavings
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 7 2014, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 7 2014, 02:15 PM)
Well it is usually good practice to drain after a stressful event, so it makes good sense.

I've been reading around and it seems for DI cars, a lot of people in the know when it comes to oil chemistry swear by this stuff http://www.renewablelube.com/gasoline.html

Might just give it a try as it is said to be extremely resistant to fuel dillution.
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the website/claims seems so shady until i see this:
http://renewablelube.com/bitog.html

i guess it can't be all that bad when there's oil analysis being done tongue.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
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nicer than the current bmw? shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM)
hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
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Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true, consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series

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