How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?

That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same.  15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.

That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.

I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.

Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.

You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.

Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. 

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.

anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?

the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket.  not sure how frequent it changed.  and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only..   well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now..   now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell.  so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle.  When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.

in kitchen too?      

ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.

Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.

Compressibility: The compressibility of Castrol React SRF Racing is very similar to that
of current DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. It can therefore be filled into any braking system used
in motor sport with the exception of those for which a mineral oil is prescribed. It gives a
“hard pedal” feel

I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.

on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.

got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.

New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it,  

i tot u will do all the research,  

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...