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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V34, Gunpla builders assemble!

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sphiroth
post Oct 28 2014, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(SetsunaFSeiei Exia00 @ Oct 28 2014, 01:00 PM)
Is it okay to apply decal without using softer or setter?
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Yes, but it will be much more easier if got those 2.
Nawar
post Oct 28 2014, 02:50 PM

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QUOTE(Shiniz @ Oct 28 2014, 11:53 AM)
kira yamato be like "Ground battle? wat ground battle..? i can shoot enemies from above the cloud..they dun see me coming"

dun think RG got any problem...i own all seed RGs...even had a perfect strike gundam with all it pack on...

i think only justice hv prob on my side..left hand kinda loose
*
if apply tamiya cement.. will that help..?
nail polish also been used to tighten joints
Shiniz
post Oct 28 2014, 03:40 PM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 28 2014, 02:50 PM)
if apply tamiya cement.. will that help..?
nail polish also been used to tighten joints
*
havent tried that though..i do hv tamiya cement...but afraid it will do more damage...perhaps worth shot..since my justice cant even lift it arm..every time i do so it come back down...

but so far so good..
rihuhs
post Oct 28 2014, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(SetsunaFSeiei Exia00 @ Oct 28 2014, 01:00 PM)
Is it okay to apply decal without using softer or setter?
*
in my experience applying water decals without the setter resulted in the decal peeling off once it's dried

bad news for those who really take time when building their kit sweat.gif
mf_yamato
post Oct 28 2014, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 28 2014, 02:50 PM)
if apply tamiya cement.. will that help..?
nail polish also been used to tighten joints
*
QUOTE(Shiniz @ Oct 28 2014, 03:40 PM)
havent tried that though..i do hv tamiya cement...but afraid it will do more damage...perhaps worth shot..since my justice cant even lift it arm..every time i do so it come back down...

but so far so good..
*
mind you, cement are meant to fuse 2 plastic by melting it....
the best choice is superglu...
sphiroth
post Oct 28 2014, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Oct 28 2014, 05:28 PM)
mind you, cement are meant to fuse 2 plastic by melting it....
the best choice is superglu...
*
Or use blu-tack.
asuk
post Oct 28 2014, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(rihuhs @ Oct 28 2014, 06:22 PM)
in my experience applying water decals without the setter resulted in the decal peeling off once it's dried

bad news for those who really take time when building their kit sweat.gif
*
that's why i always spray topcoat on my kits
rihuhs
post Oct 28 2014, 06:29 PM

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QUOTE(asuk @ Oct 28 2014, 05:47 PM)
that's why i always spray topcoat on my kits
*
exactly

what I experienced was when I left it to dry, waiting to topcoat the kit sweat.gif
Nawar
post Oct 28 2014, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Oct 28 2014, 05:28 PM)
mind you, cement are meant to fuse 2 plastic by melting it....
the best choice is superglu...
*
what i meant is when it has a joint.. apply a layer just at that point but dont put it back on yet.. just to create a thicker layer to create a bit of friction, once dried snap it on n it should be thighter(Depending on layer thickness, sometimes have to apply more than once).. just like the concept of paintng kits parts by parts.. once u try to combine the parts ull notice its tighter to do so..

for too tight issue, is best to mask the area of joint b4 painting..
Nawar
post Oct 28 2014, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(rihuhs @ Oct 28 2014, 06:29 PM)
exactly

what I experienced was when I left it to dry, waiting to topcoat the kit sweat.gif
*
so do i need both softer and setter? or can just get away with just 1?

Will Sticker type decal turn yellow on the transparent part overtime if you top coat it?
mf_yamato
post Oct 28 2014, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 28 2014, 10:14 PM)
what i meant is when it has a joint.. apply a layer just at that point but dont put it back on yet.. just to create a thicker layer to create a bit of friction, once dried  snap it on n it should be thighter(Depending on layer thickness, sometimes have to apply more than once).. just like the concept of paintng kits parts by parts.. once u try to combine the parts ull notice its tighter to do so..

for too tight issue, is best to mask the area of joint b4 painting..
*
i know, but using cement to make surface thicker is not really the way...
hahaha

but then again, suits yourself... biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
Shiniz
post Oct 28 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Oct 28 2014, 05:28 PM)
mind you, cement are meant to fuse 2 plastic by melting it....
the best choice is superglu...
*
oh...yea...but i sorta thought it might create a thicker layer so that joint will be abit tighter...but melting it....superglue....hmm yea superglue might be a better choice...
TheAdmiral
post Oct 29 2014, 01:17 AM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 28 2014, 10:14 PM)
what i meant is when it has a joint.. apply a layer just at that point but dont put it back on yet.. just to create a thicker layer to create a bit of friction, once dried  snap it on n it should be thighter(Depending on layer thickness, sometimes have to apply more than once).. just like the concept of paintng kits parts by parts.. once u try to combine the parts ull notice its tighter to do so..

for too tight issue, is best to mask the area of joint b4 painting..
*
cement dont work that way, cement liquid is not a bonding agent. The bonding comes from melting of the plastics at contact point, fusing 2 halves of the plastic at the molecular level. The liquid purposes is just to melts the plastics away and once dried will just evaporates, it wont make anything thicker. U put cement on plastic and leave it there it'll just melts the plastic and warp it out of shape.

if u want to tighten a joint, use something where the substance itself is a bonding agent like super glue or uhu glue.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Oct 29 2014, 01:23 AM
TSnazrul90
post Oct 29 2014, 02:48 AM

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if want tight joint back, use hobby putty instead of super glue
I using this way and works better because it harden like plastic from gunpla

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Oct 29 2014, 02:50 AM
Nawar
post Oct 29 2014, 02:49 AM

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Nail polish does works for action figures join tightening.. some use cement as well.. but action figures/toys plastics may be differ.. some joint can bend as well..

i noticed super glue sometimes will create a sort of whitish/cloudish.. any other cleaner solution than that for joint tightening for gunpla..
:3mushy:3
post Oct 29 2014, 05:07 AM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 29 2014, 02:49 AM)
Nail polish does works for action figures join tightening.. some use cement as well.. but action figures/toys plastics may be differ.. some joint can bend as well..

i noticed super glue sometimes will create a sort of whitish/cloudish.. any other cleaner solution than that for joint tightening for gunpla..
*
Yes it's called Blu Tac. Non permanent like super glue so no damage to the joints.
rihuhs
post Oct 29 2014, 06:26 AM

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QUOTE(Nawar @ Oct 28 2014, 10:17 PM)
so do i need both softer and setter? or  can just get away with just 1?

Will Sticker type decal turn yellow on the transparent part overtime if you top coat it?
*
setter alone would be sufficient enough, unless you're applying decals on some very tricky/uneven/odd surfaces.
ralph_d
post Oct 29 2014, 08:03 AM

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softer (green): kinda melt the decal on the plastic. result: markings look like been painted on instead of using decal

setter (blue): easier to set the decal in place. It is quite slippery to place water decals especially on unpainted kits, setter solves this problem.

you can also do without using those solvents, but better top coat a.s.a.p.

halfway through water decaling my 3.0 rx-78 i realised using these solvent makes my life easier.
boonhoong
post Oct 29 2014, 10:02 AM

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Had some free time and decided to change my Strike Freedom's pose for display.

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

Just barely fits into the 1/100 display case with dragoon tips and rifle barrel touching the side and top display panels sweat.gif
Nawar
post Oct 29 2014, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(ralph_d @ Oct 29 2014, 08:03 AM)
softer (green): kinda melt the decal on the plastic. result: markings look like been painted on instead of using decal

setter (blue): easier to set the decal in place. It is quite slippery to place water decals especially on unpainted kits, setter solves this problem.

you can also do without using those solvents, but better top coat a.s.a.p.

halfway through water decaling my 3.0 rx-78 i realised using these solvent makes my life easier.
*
so on unpainted you can use setter only....
how asap to apply top coats after decals if not using any solvents, hours or less?


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