who recomend? an engine engineer? a mechanic? a worksop? a tuner?
seriously la, dont wast money every 10K, its just crap talk, do u see evo, impreza, etc do that? or do u see in any other car forums that recomend this 10K cleaning? if every 50K then maybe but 10K its just ridicules

sorry for the harsh words but just dont want bros here to waste hard earned $

anyway
port matching is to match the intake manifold runners to the engine head, and also the intake manifold to the throttle body. this will help reduce the tubulance of air entering the engine. it is not porting and making it bigger but just enuf to make ot the same as the engine head

cheers

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 12 2006, 11:52 PM

no problem bro, just wanna clarify la. come on la, to take out the intake maniflod can cost ard rm100 then cleaning will be another rm50. on top of that the half day to a day spent to do it. do it every 10K will actually make car mantainence high. 50K then okla.

moreover a thin layer of oil in the manifold is does not do harm, only if
1. its on the throttle body,
2. on the injectors or
3. in vapourise form

no 1 can be done easily by removing the throttle body and cleaning it together with the outer part of the intke maniflod
no 2 can be done be injector cleaning or decarbonizing
no 3 can be done by putting in an OCT

to prevent the throttle body form getting dirty, u can also put a breather mini filter on the connecting pipe from the intake hose (seal the intake hose)

hope this helps

huh???

i not having DIY OCT now, but last time i used pertrol filter.
actually easy
1. on the engine cover got 2 hoses. from the front of the car the intake is right and the manifold side is right... ok......

the one on the right.
1. disconnect the intake hose part.
2. plug the intake hose (i took a screw and put electrical tape ard it
3. with the exposed hose then put in a breather (mini flter) and u are done

the left side
1. feel the hose till u get to the part that connects to the intake manifold
2. pull it out, and then stick a pertol filter to it (make sure the flow is correct,flow into the maniflod)
3. errr, this should be earlier, buy another hose 8mm fuel hose is good, to put it on the other side of the petrol filter and connect it to the intake manifold. and u are done..

some ppl may ask: by putting the breather, dont more air flow into the head through vacuum? yes, cool air flows in and this will help the cooling effect (less oil evapouration) and u got OCT with a filter so don be afraid of contaminants entering ur engine

good luck

oh... haha, normal la, all cars also like that esp highly tuned cars like ours
if no time to go acc shop
just see under the dash u got a small switch that is for the brake lights, can adjust it till ngam ngam no lights then it should be ok.

i dunno if it is the same for gen2 and other cars or not, but u can try la,(i have not kena b4, haha), so have not study it b4, but for other cars is like this:

see the brake pedal, just above it (under the dash), should have a on off switch to activate and deactivate the brake lights. this switch is adjustable (usually screw type), so just adjust that switch.

yup, its just a switch
its an on off switch only, relase the pedal then it goes off, press the pedal it goes on.

better take to shop la since u just change brake pads, who knows what other things it might be hahaha

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 13 2006, 01:06 AM

it will not damage the clutch plate of adjusted properly, and also, clutch ment to be damage ma , its a wear and tear item.
anyway, it will only damage if u adjust it too low, that means when fully depresed the clutch is the samw as half clutch. most ppl who likes err... racing do this for faster change but dont do it for normal road cars la

hey shackks,
i wanna do but dunno where le, and most important its cheap, haha, where is it bro?

actually, i am curious also?
thats also one of the reason why didnt do it ,

but it sure looks damn cool especially on a black car

wow, looks interesting, wonder if anyone here try to DIY before?
but i think one shop in sunway is doing it, but dont think its cheap, next time ask my fried where he do it.
looks really cool with blackend headlights, but u cannot really see it if u have not blackend it, so better do both... haha

anyway, see u guys in a week, got limited acess, c ya guys

hi... i am back...

well shackks, try iridium out if u got a good price on it, i know that i am going to try it out the next time i change the plugs. wanna see how it feels too. i got my autolites for abt RM100. and also pls don compare autolite DOUBLE PLATINUM with other platinum becoz autolite has both electrode and tip in platinum, while others only has the tip in platinum

but from my experience on my previous ride. platinum dont last but performs better than irridium. irridium on the other hand can last long but not as good as platinums performance wise. however both of course are better than stock la

cheers mate

hi
first of all i did not say that "A reputable spark plug manufacturer will never claim that Platinum will out perform Iridium or vice versa",
of course they will never claim coz the increase is minimal(1-5hp on engine is barely felt, less if its a turbo). i said through my experience with my previous ride that is what i FELT performance wise was through engine smoothness and free revving character. sorry for the confusion

no2. u said "They've mentioned that there's no such thing as performance gains but rather increased durability of the so called 'racing' plugs to handle punishment".
what is racing plugs made of? let me tell u about racing plugs... its a load of crap. u know where HKS racing plugs come from? yes i agree that plugs are made with better materials to reduce wear, but dont u think different materials can produce a better and cleaner spark? thus giving a smoother engine. if this is not the case then why do manufacturers come out with iridium and platinum that last longer? isnt it better for then to keep producing normal plugs and keep the profits coming?

no3. "Of course we have the smaller players out there claiming XX percent amount increase in power which we all know is just a load of crap."
Know your products my friend!!
i of course got no dyno result to show here and now. but since u say that there will be no difference in performance gains, then how do u explain the volker iridium dyno chart by speedworks. (and that is true becoz i got a friend who drives a waja with the same 3HP increase that was dynoed at speedworks which i have seen with my own eyes)
i would not say its a load of crap but these minimal incrase its nothing to shout about. maybe they should market it in a different way (maybe market it for better engine smoothness perhaps)

mattchin,
platinum usually last abt 40K km, while stock will be ard 20K, iridium on the other hand is ard 80K

*edit
mattchin,
coil is the thing that the plug cables are connected to at the other end of the spark plugs. (in simple terms at least), but sometimes there are variations like coil on plug design.

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 29 2006, 08:50 PM

after changing ur coil of course u will get a bigger spark (if its a better coil la ) and thus increase in power significantly.

better ask someone who had done it in more detail, i have not done it in a gen2 ,

i have them

cam pulley are also called cam gears, they are the gears/pulley connected to the end of the camshaft that is turned by the timing belt.

usually, its just a normal gear/pulley, but adjustable then can adjust la

adjust means that u can either advance or retard the timing of the cams to improve the engine response. in simple terms. advancing the cams means that u can get better low end (torque) and retarding will get better top end (HP). of course we need to get into techincal details on how it works, an how much to advance or retard, but i think enuf to know basic la

so for our cars, most ppl will go for advance setting to improve the low end, but there are some who likes high revving who will retard it a bit too. either way, its well worth it to install...

mine is not from speedworks, but speedworks do have them, just out this year. get it from them, quality and markings/ease of adjustment are good

This post has been edited by pacer: Nov 1 2006, 11:06 AM

looks fake to me, maybe photoshoped
rear looks like taken from bmw 5 series
the front looks from honda (accord or civic).

and proton coming out with variable cam without much 'publicity'?
dont think its going to happen

but if it does it would be cool

yes, the car that dyno did 3 runs before the spark plug change and after the spark plug change, nothing else was done to the car prior to the later dyno. the results were fairly similar so i belive that DYNO VARIABLE was only a slight problem in the reading and not as 3hp difference

the HP gain was seen as a GAIN becoz its an auto waja with 92 WHP which adds up to 95WHP after the new plugs went in , (minor mods on exhaust and intake, no major mods done).
i called it a gain becoz a stock 1.6 waja auto can get about 85-88WHP only and this was what he got when the car was stock. so i belive that there was a GAIN not what he got back what he lost.

you wrote "A good plug will fire more precisely than a standard plug, hence you get the full performance of the engine and that is not considered as performance gain."

FYI for a good plug to fire preciesly u need a good IGNITION system, so basically its not the plug that is firing more precisely because the plug cannot keep a spark like a good ignition system can. a plug is just to cahnnel the spark more effectively to the right place at the right time when told to do so by the ignition system.

wanna ask, the MME edition finish already ahh? should be right since lauch a few months ago with so limited units.

anyway, about the HID thing, to put HID in a waja is cheaper (H1) compared to the gen2, and also the waja headlamps are better in terms because they already have some sort of a cover that u cannot see the bulbs (like projector units), dunno how to explain lah. anyway, bottom line is COST, COST AND COST, so gen2mme dont get it

wanna ask how u guys keep the leather cleen? mine one year already a bit er... durty. haha especally the inner vanes (do they call it that), worst still its the H-Line beige. but i do use leather cleaner and conditioner once a month. any good ones to recommend?

see ya guys in a week