hi bro,
wanna ask if the S type is a full-S or just a semi-S, urs auto or manual? and the zenden bullet is it the swirl one?

This post has been edited by pacer: Sep 20 2006, 09:33 PM

going for my 20K next week.

but then i got a few things no need to change coz change already like
- spark plugs
- air filter
- manual gear oil
- brake fluid

so should be like normal service + a bit.
anybody change coolant at 20K? how mcuh?

yup... its true, dont need to add those stuff.
unless u want to try them out la.. hehe

personally i have tried X1R (before flame me, i got it free), the engine is smoother and less noisy when u rev it high, more free revving too, but i dont think i will add anymore in it.

another thing if u want to add additives, always know what is in them, make sure they are not silicon based of molydynum based, they will clogg up ur oil filter. so do some research first.

like shackks said,
fully syn can last abt 10K without any problems,

but i have not tried because, my engine oil goes down a quarter or someties to half (from the dipstick markings) every 5000km. cheked using the compression test and there was no leakage in the combustion chamber so must be from the breather and pcv valve. anybody got this problem. i am using 0W40, and some mechs tell me to change to thicker engine oil such as 10W50 so that the oil will be more stable at high temperatures ( i am high revving driver )

anyone got an idea on this???

This post has been edited by pacer: Sep 22 2006, 10:32 AM

mine is manual... but the boiling point of engine oil is not classified by the viscosity rite? thats why i am asking. i did ask the mechanic if the boiling point is higher... he scrach head...

shackks,
i really really really recomend u not to use UR 3 point bars. these bars are not chasis friendly. if u are driving 100% on track then its fine but on the road with potholes and stuff.... no way ur chasis is going to take it in the long term
i have seen a waja's firewall crack becoz of overstiffening.

have u heard of metal fetique (dunno how to spell la), the more stress u put on the chasis the less time it will take to break. so some ppl will argue that the 3point will actually stiffen up and not make the chasis bend. its the wrong concept. actually what u are doing is making the chasis more bittle. fow example harder thigs will break more easily than softer things.

for road use. i suggest u go get zenden or hotbits or any other reputable ALUMINIUM bars as they allow some degree of flex. yes i know what u are thinking and why would u want flex when the purpose of adding bars is to stffen the chasis. u would want some degree of flex so that if u hit a pothole. ur car will still have some room to play with, while stiffening up the chasis in smooth corners.

i really hope u take my advice (stongly)

i am using bars up front and rear, the front will do a lot of difference, the rear, got money then put la...

nobody said UR not good leh, its good what, for track purpose.

u got the marketing part right.

haha... thats true, more production = more bonus = more duit raya.... hahahahaha

friday ma...

hey guys, guess what, i just did my 20K service (actually yesterday lah, but today seems so quiet so i cerita a bit)

i did:
1. engine oil (esso ultraflo 10w40 semi syn)
2. oil filter
3. coolant (2 bottles) non pre mix kind

seems short becoz i already did gear oil, plugs, etc etc, and also have KnN,

the thing is, for the coolant, they use two bottles and add 2 parts water. so what was the fuss about using pre mix coolant? i belive that its the same right? i asked the SC and he said that if mix correctly its the same, so dont be fooled by permix coolant X6, btw the temperature was actually lower then new car by 1-2mm (on the display la)
it cost me a total of rm135...

in top of that i change my front brakes (ori gone liau) to bendix titanium, at first i was sceptical cause the only ones i used before is bendix metal king gold on my previuos ride, but anyway the guy at the spare part shop say this is new (dunno bluff me or not) so i decided to try la.

cheers

shackks,
i got the pads in johor jaya, at 105,
so far the brakes not too bad la. a bit better than stock coz its not the hgh teperature bendix metal king gold or bendix ultimate, this is just normal ones, they don have the gold and ultimate

hey, what fpr u using and how to disable the stock fpr?
i dunno how the dummy fpr looks like or where to get it

mattchin,
brakes are ment to produce dust, if no dust then usually the pads are not effective in getting rid of heat... thus lower temperature rating
thats why high performance pads all a lot of dust.

This post has been edited by pacer: Sep 30 2006, 08:36 PM

where is everybody? 24 hrs no post ahh... hmmmmm

MF then no need to check level.... nothing to check actually.. haha

but on the safe side change it every 18 -24 months.

mine is ori la, end 2006,

but plan to change soon to MF, any recomendations and price... first time ma so wanna know the price range

thank you thank you

haha,
just as i expected, FYI, the ori airbox and waja airbox is more or less alike in principal, ITS JUST AN AIRBOX, the only advantage the waja airbox has is that the air travels less to the throttle body this eliminating the need for a canister (to reduce sudden surge of the throttle) that the gen2 airbox has just before the throttle body. the shorter route will therefore help in the air ramming effect but on a very MINIMAL scale.

u want to improve on the air intake, do a custom intake manifold. the ori campro manifol has lots of restrictions (its a loop BTW, can see if u have opened if up before). so nomatter how u improve your intake system, the main culprit is the intake manifold. even with open pods, the improvement can be felt only with the correct air ram and cold air intake system.


hope this helps

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 4 2006, 10:31 PM

hi bro,
well in general i have have not done much to the intake becoz i still think that the stock system is quite good (well its not perfect, nothing is). the best thing is change the air filter to KnN and put in the lage snorkle. i have tried a few different setups such as CAI to the intake, open pods, heat shields, etc but the performance gain (by feeling only la, everythime dyno no $$ ma ) is not significant (well i have yet to find one that is). on top of thet the power delivery and engine smoothness sometime suffers due to the lack of the extra canister on the intake hose (before the throttle body)

the intake manifold is the metal thingy there the throttle body is connected to, the air inside there is not as stright flowing as in other cars, the air in our car actually makes a full 180 degree turn in the runners before entering the engine compared to other cars which the runners are actually stright.

hope this explains

actually not say last long or not la, coil cannot spoil so easily...

the filter is just there so that when its time to service the aircon system, u don have to take out the whole coil to wash. just change the filter, which reduces labour cost. the downside is more restiction to the air coming out from the air cond vent.

u are right, a lot of cars don have this, even some generation waja's dont have it

patco i think
if not then denso la

coz proton only take form this two companies

mind to share what have u done? maybe we can try it out

dont waste money on CAI la, if i were u i will save money for a BMC or Pipercross venom, that is the best i can think of, why? too long to explain la.... heehee
I also trying to save up for it.

it is actually a open pod in an canister (like an air box) with a CAI hose. more or less like racecraft. but of course with the pipercross venom u ger a good filter la. the thing with this filter is that the design is good that it isolates hot air from the intake and and supplies enough air to the engine without much restiction.


why from tow companies? well, if one increase price then they can take form the other one. its the same for most of the parts in the proton inventory.

bro, sorry in advance if i a bit direct in my statment ahhh

why pay 150 for zenden when u can get KnN or Pipercross for a bit more?