KnN went up in price ahh? hmmm
okok. i understand
coz i bought it at 220 without bulk so u guess rm70 more than zenden is ok la for me

the zenden in wire mesh type rite? need to put oil? can show a pic plsss

something to share....

kena stop by police after the tampoi toll. the conversation like this la

me: ya encik, selamat petang
CP: encik tadi KM12 bawak 124km/j
me: ye ke? saya bawak 110-120 saje ma, mana ada bawak laju (really confident i didnt speed coz parents in the car , on top of that its their car)
CP: ahhhh... lesen lesen.
me: ok (giving licence)
CP: saya bagi saman ye (looking at my handsome photo for dunno how long like he has never seen a driving licnece before, waiting for me to ask the magic question)
me: ada masalah ke encik? saman mana? (looking confident)
CP: sekejap:!!!(angrilly, he took my licence to go check in the booth)

later
CP: nah (giving back licence), jalan, jalan......

#CP: Corrupted police

so, be the judge of this...
either way, its just a reminder that its the season for them to get a lot of INCENTIVES.

urs auto meh? all the while i tot urs is manual, haha
wah so nice got cruise control. the only controlling my crusing is my right foot!!! which is usually heavy, haha

i still wonder why cant they get it in a manual HL???
haii..... would'nt it be nice

talking about braking. wanna give a mini review on my 2 week old bendix titanium.
braking feel is a bit better compared to stock. more positive but have to learn how to modulate coz it is only effective when it heats up a bit. so u got to really press the brake padel hard to get it working. other than that it is not too bad for its price.

cannot comment on brake dust coz i just washed the car 2 days ago... haha

the only bad thing is that it started making screetching noise. especially when on half pressure (slowing down) but it will not happen if u really brake hard.

so i guess it is semi performance type pad, but compared to bendix metal king gold on my waja, these are more forgiving in a sence that they do not bite as hard. i recomend it for someone who preferes comfort to performance, but for me, i think i will live with it till it finishes. heehee

BTW, this was tested with bendix dot5.1 brake fluid (and it is with ABS system)

my next mod (if got the $$) will be braided hoses.

nice info there bro.

but just wondering, mine is HL and got ABS, then how to change the caliper or master pump?

so far i using bendix pads and bendix dot 5.1 fluid only, maybe braided hoses next
(wanted motul but then was in a hurry la, grab what i could)

braided hose by pro RS from Ros*d* is abt 230-240, APP will be ard 400 i guess.
normal hoses are rubber renforced hoses, with nylon threads in between. braided hoses are stainless stell braiding for the outer part and PTFE silicon for the inner part.

ferodo i was quoted 98 in jb, but dunno the same as what the guys at g2oc use, bendix titanium is 105 also in jb, prices for front, my rear still ok so didnt ask

not really unless u want to change from the ori dot4 to dot5.1. but u have to do bleeding when u change the hoses

hurray 50 pages...
next target 100 pages

yes they are corrosive ( i think its spelled like that, haha), but if u change it every 6 mths i think its ok. its corrosive becoz they trap air and moisture in the lines which will make then rust. dot 4 will not do that becoz they have oil like composition which coats the lines preventing rust. but basically dot4 is good enuf for daily town driving. the only advantage of dot 5.1 is the higher operating teperature, but this temperature is barely reached in daily town driving. on highways doing 160 and above then pls change it:P

charges, so far i only asked ros*d* in sunway, pro RS is 240 plus installation is 340. i think they include bleeding too with dot4

for changing brake fluid it, labour depends la on workshop, but should not be more than 30-40, dot5.1 fluid range from approx 25(bendix) to 45 (motul) a bottle. needs 2 bottles (1Liter) to change for the first time

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

about the crank pully... check it out if there is a dampener on it. if there is no damperner then forget it. the engine will be due for a change in 100-150K kms

on top of that, when u lighthen the crank pulley, ur torque figure will suffer although ur HP will increase.

if u see the dyno graph properly (from what i see on many cars), 3HP is in the high end not in the entire rev range. while torque figure (if increase) will also be in the higher rev range not in the useable lower revs.

engines like the campro needs high amount of lower troque thats why it is very heavy, if u have lifted one b4, compared to the waja (4G18) or wira (4g15), the campro's is much much more heavy (didnt weight it though)

so beware.

yes it is really good to have an oil cooler. had one on my waja, less jerking after an highway run (i mean RUN. ). didnt suffer much too after going for sprint race or track.

but i didnt buy hayden lah, just got one good condition form halfcut (GSR) for rm60 then hoses (braided fuel hose) for rm5/feet and connectors fof the cooler (rm30) and DIY. easy job but takes a bit of time to fit the cooler.

PM me if anyone needs help

crank pulley is the mail pulley that is bolted on the the end of the crakshaft to run the aux belt (aircon, power steering, and alternator)
by lightening it is like lightening the flywheel (in theory at least) becoz it will reduce the weight of the mass that needs to be turned by the engine. so less effort is needed so more power is produced

but the downside is that this also acts as a balancer or a thing to produce momentum, so by reducing the weight u also in fact reduce the torque. this is not good for town drivng unless ur engine has high torque or u are driving on track.

for example, take a shaft (a pencil would be great) and twist it with ur fingers, now put some weight on one end and twist again.
u will find that it is easied to twist the lighter one at high speed but cannot mantain the speed once u slow down, but when the weight is added then there is more turning torque and the speed is easier mantained

now, take this principle and apply to the crank pulley.

ye, totally understand, esp urs auto, for sure need high torque to get moving.
if manual then its not too bad cause the gear ratios are different and they dont lose power to the torque converter.

shackks,
can DIY lah, as long got all the stuff, the most important thing is getting an oil cooler from halfcut, the others is easy

haha, no prob, pm me if need help

haha, hold the FPR and exhaust and do the oil cooler first

how old is ur car cause u to wash intake manifold? of course it is better to wash it but catually it will do very little harm, engine oil in the intake manifold will only reduce the octane level in petrol, if this is what u are afraid of, when it is vapourise (not then it is stuck to the intake). what u can do is do some injector cleaning or decarbonising to clean the injector part. so, take out the throttle body and if it looks not too bad then no need to waste $$ la.

my car is 20K and been using OCT when almost new, last week when i see inside the manifold via the throttle body it was still clean,... heehee, so i guess its a good investment.

yes, yes, polishing and PORT MATCHING works

DIY OCT is easy with petol filters btw, all for rm5, but then i have been using those for a while and got sick of changing them every 5K so i bought an el cheapo OCT for rm100,

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 12 2006, 03:28 PM

why take it out in the first place?? haha

anyway try 3M tape... or super glue if u want it there forever

haha... sorry ahh, misunderstood i tot the thundercat logo:P
i also dunno where to find la dude. sorry la
byt i guess u can look at acc shop where some ppl just stick blcak tape for the top part of the windsceen (not the tint, but the kind that stick on the outside)

HUH???
Every 10K, serious or not? to take out the intake manifold is no easy job. i have taken it out b4. and i think with OCT will really minimize the amount of oil going into the manifold. the last time i took it out was at 15K, using OCT and Breather ad it was really clean. i mean got la a coating of oil which is normal but then its not black. i am also a high revving driver .

but anyway, if 30K already i think u should take it out and wash it and put in an OCT and breather (if not oil may still go through ur throttle body) to see the result urself and see if it needs cleaning every 10K or not

btw, since it is out, i recomend u not only do polishing but port matching too
cheers

This post has been edited by pacer: Oct 12 2006, 11:12 PM