e-lite, as per request


Torque is 70fl/lb so I think it's pretty sufficient on such a small car(even my GaGa only gets about 78ft/lb). AFR at 12.2 in the end, couldn't adjust it further. So boss said must add FPR liao in order to adjust it further. Bare optimal at 12.8 as per in the graph. Another thing is, for unknown reason fuel cut at 5800, or is it that's the limit?



As per earlier education session with Quazacolt, tauke did mentioned unless we can bring up the rev limit, otherwise the gear ratio will suck big time as our Shawie ady start to lose torque from 4th gear onward. On the 5th, it basically has nothing but to mute the engine and FC for highspeed cruising nia

Mahem

This post has been edited by davidke20: Dec 27 2014, 06:14 PM

Nope. Some smartdonkey in Taiwan managed to squeeze in extra module into a stock key/alarm system

Speed sensor? I tot ur kar just went for fixing AMT recently?

The normal speedometer that 1 can get from h0pefree for RM70 nia DIY. If original at Renau Tech RM150 + labor RM50. If there's another speed detector for AMT, then that 1 I dunno liao. But abam h0pefree memang maintaining his AMT lika king all by himself, claiming it's cheap and easy to maintain. So, let's hope abam h0pefree can tunjuk ajar abit here.

aih... gebox send in oberhol liao I was gonna change the new speedsensor poke poke poke the whole counter gear patah inside liao

If speed down to 0, throttle controller is automatically adjusted to 30% extra more powerful, at the same time aircon compressor clutch is set to loosen. Your ECU detected engine load, but no speed detected, hence put down with all hands trying to release more poney hoping to help you gain speed. Manual or auto are the same, when speed sensor no reading, then it will become very light on the gas pedal. This however, is NOT actual horse power gain. I have a vacuum gauge in the car, I can see what happened to the engine any given time. That 30% extra power came with 30% extra fuel consumption which you're not able to monitor because if your speed meter isn't catching reading, you wouldn't know how much mileage you clocked as well. Besides, aircon compressor is set to much less efficiency to your ECU think can restore more torque for you to move the car.

Not sure about potentionmeter though since I don't have an AMT. But it sure is a crucial thing to measure speed against RPM to determine which gear you should in. So, most probably the damaged potentionmeter that causes you unable to utilize fully automatic. If you have no problem with both speed sensor nor the potentionmeter, then most probably as abam h0pefree pointed out, could be insufficient transmission fluid in the accumulator pump.

I'm not from SAVOC and have no intention to join since there's too many politics over there, hence unable to answer you. May be NOX can give you a heads up.

On the side note, if I bai an AMT Shawie, will you be able to help me select a good 1? Teach me on the maintenance and so I shall own both MT and AMT happily ever after?

Just to report back. Have been driving without 5th gear for sometimes. Find it can still give me this marvelous figure. Considering speed does not exceed 90kph. In fact, on highway cruising on 4th gear with 80kph can reduce a lot of exhaust resonating noise as exhaust flow is constantly expel from the system. This can still make about 14km/l without too much problem even with 75% mixture of city driving.

Yes he is

Replied in Blue

1) Power steering switch changed twice despite adhering to advices learnt from SAVOC to only park with the steering wheel at center / when the engine is on.
Consider wear & tear. I will buy 1 and keep spare for future replacement as needed. Usually 1 piece can last 2 years. Got mine from h0pefree for RM70

2) Changed front & back absorber twice. Emitting strange noises over speed bumps & uneven roads. Is only Savvy or the shock absorber brand that i used was bad? (Brand is KYB as recommended by my mechanic as probably the best there is in the market in terms of durability). Is this an indication that our Savvy suspension is flawed and not built to last longer than it should be?
Stick to APM oil base damper. Not sure your emitting noise as in what kind of noise. Perhaps drive it out and let me hear it. My front damper is still stock APM since 2006, rear changed in 2012 until today due to oil leak, for the price of RM70 x 2 side

3) Changed lower control arms twice as well. (Related to the previous mentioned point). Had to change as the previous one (also original) lasted less than 2 years.
Lower control arm was changed in 2014 due to wear & tear. Clocked 200000km for RM260/pair during Plotong cash & carry promotion. Also changed anti roll bar drop link(tulang anjing) for RM90 x 2 and anti roll bar mounting bush for RM20 x 2(can go as low as RM8/piece if you find the right shop). Alternatively, the bushes can be replaced with Polyurethane by LAN ENGINEERING for RM450 in total, including rear axle bushes. Rest assured, the bushing probably can outlast the car!

4) AMT gear stick broken. Suspected that it was broken by those car wash operator's staff who doesn't have a single clue about the movement of our gear stick. Since then never allowed them to touch the replacement stick.
Absolutely correct

5) Throttlebody changed (unstabled RPM during idling and during startup time). According to the mechanic, just merely wash / clean the TB wouldn't do the trick.
Could be vacuum leak / PCV clogged. Wash & clean will only cost RM20 in Renau Tech Subang USJ 1. Additional RM50 computer calibration of the throttlebody is highly recommended after the clean. Otherwise, change to a reconditioned throttlebody will only cost RM250.

6) Brake cable changed. Had to tow the car to workshop from my house as the brake jammed and refused to move.
Brake cable can be adjusted from the cabin, need to open up handbrake console and retune the length. Usually this happened due to lazy mechanics, where owner complaint the handbrake too loose unable to park the car at slope. Those lazy magician will open up the handbrake console and tighten the brake cable so the brake cable will pull the rear drum brakes. The correct way should always be remove rear wheels, remove bearing, remove brake hub, and manually turn the brake cylinder placement adjuster. Put back the brake hub & bearings, manually turn the hub to see if the brakes are tight, if not open up and retune again until desired handbrake clearance then only plonk back everything. I have never changed any handbrake cable other than there was 1 time I was doing handbrake drifting, accidentally pulled too hard result in cable snapped. And that was a 1976 Toyota Corolla.

7) Brake pump, brake shoe, rear bearing (3 times) changed.
Rear brake cylinder is definitely a design flaw. The rear hub brake was designed as full enclosure, doesn't even have a breather. Good thing about the design is, water very hard to go in, despite going through deep puddle/small banjir your rear brake doesn't fail easily. Bad thing is, brake dust is trapped and start to clog the brake cylinder as it actuate everytime you hit the brake pedal. Consider budgetting RM80/side x 2 for the brake cylinder change every year. Take it as a wear & tear. Do take note, the brake jam issue can also caused by your item no.6, where the handbrake cable was over tightened. Brake shoe will wear off faster when your brake cylinder is jammed. When rear bearing often gone KO, you should consider change the spindle as well. If the spindle wasn't in good shape(after the previous bearing damaged, metal debris will start to shred off the spindle surface), extra clearance will lead to imbalance of bearing movement, which will speed up your bearing wear. I suffered 6 times bearing change in 3 months, and the last 1 the whole rear wheel fly off from the car when I was driving. I have no more problem ever since upgraded to SAGA BLM rear spindle and bearings.

8) Speedometer sensor. The need to change this part was diagnosed with PDT scanner and hence changed as advised.
Got mine from h0pefree, for RM70 also. DIY changed. The recent time, when I change accidentally poked too hard and snap the counter gear. So, have sent my gearbox for repair. If there's anyone to blame, I blame myself for being clumsy. This part never need a PDT scanner.

9) Brake switch. (Also highlighted by PDT).
My switch got no problem, but the wiring got bitten by rat. Pulled a new wire and that was it. Never needed PDT as long the brake lights are functioning.

10) Fuel Pump. Changed because initially thought the unstable RPM during startup was caused by faulty fuel pump according to the mechanic.
Heard this is a common problem, even until SAGA BLM 2010 has fuel pump problem whenever suffer fuel starve too often. For example drive the car until petrol habish and engine stall. Fuel pump continue to run dry and fried itself. Do take note fuel pump itself rely on the PETROL pumped by to cool itself down.

12) New ekzos (front and rear) as previous one rusted badly.
Mine from middle to the back has changed also due to rust. Can't help it. I have never changed any handbrake cable other than there was 1 time I was doing handbrake drifting, accidentally pulled too hard result in cable snapped.

13) Only using Fully Synthetic Engine Oil (specifically Bardahl C60 Super Lube 5w-40) and B1 concentration.
Dump whatever rubbish inside, as long below RM100 for my case.

14) Only using RON97 all along even when the price per liter soar as high as RM2.46 per liter once.
EURO RON91 compatible engine. If there's still RON92, I will use it.

15) High grade tinted window film costing RM2,599.00 (rejected the cheap one promoted by the salesman and opted for the type used in Honda car). JPJ-complied.
I choose RayTech from daBestOne, RM350

Most of the above are regular stuff, it just that the something PDT also con u money jek I'm sorry I'm not from SAVOC despite in the 1st page is promoting SAVOC. Simply because SAVOC is the official/registered Savvy club, I will have to comply and to put them on this LYN thread. I don't know what have/have not been covered in SAVOC. Do correct me with fact from other contributor in SAVOC if ayam wrong

16) New engine mounting (3 pieces). No violent vibration was ever felt again.
Also changed mine in RenauTech in 2012

17) New tyres, only 3 months old (stick to NCT5).
WOHOOO!!! Ayam with Achilles ATR K Sport

18) Grey-color coil mat (worth RM110)
FnC normal mat, RM24 full set

And a big WOW for 10k selling a 2007 Savvy AMT Try to post on Mudah, may be you can fetch a customer for some reason. Here, probably harder

Solution: Remove power steering
WIN LIAO NO NEED TO SAY ANYTHING. 1 day I bring parang spanner go open your powahsteering pam

Question: The counter gear is made of what material? Why so easy snap a magnetic sensor gear? And shouldn't it be non-touching

Plastik I think

I don't know to laugh or cry at the people pumping RON97 now. Myvi min. RON90, Savvy min. RON91

Technically, higher RON will retard predetonation. So, having bigger ron can ADVANCE ignition timing to obtain more horse powah and lower fuel consumption, but the price different between RON95 and RON97 is injustifyable in my opinion. Provided the mere 2RON is quite impossible to make the ECU decide to advance ignition timing so to speak. As a matter of fact, a regularly running RON95 vehicle if suddenly put RON97, be expect to power loss Ayam not saying those people wrong that using RON97, just like people with a CELERON processor but putting in 8GB ram running on Windows XP. It's always bigger the better in our cuntry standard

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jan 6 2015, 03:54 PM

10.8 : 1



11.1 :1



11.7 : 1



p/s: The above all 3 RON95 comply, from 185hp,200hp and 250hp

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jan 6 2015, 05:35 PM

Thanks for sharing. Ayam acterly a Toyol fanboi, particularly VIOS P42 and the old KE20 Corolla

Isn't the fuel filter is AFTER the fuel pam? Ayam puzzled bai ur komen. And salute jiu still going back to Plotong SC do serbis

Bai a SAGA Orion 8V, SNF kambing soon

Yeah, I also switched to RON95 ever since gabermen decided to stop all RON92

Bai

anti roll bar bush RM20(as low as RM8 per piece) x 2 units



anti roll bar drop link RM90 x 2 units