Full tank, I assume RM8 for about 4.8 liters of RON95?
100kmh for 1 round trip ~40km.
80kmh for 1.5 trips ~60km.
The FC is terrible at 12.5km per liter.

Average FC for LC135 is 2~3 times better than yours, meaning 1 tank can go 120~180km.
Source: http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/lc135

Start with that, along with other diagnostics:
- plug
- air filter

Your bike in Indo, right? Can't find good mech? Hard to believe.

Y15ZR or LC?
If Y15ZR there is no mineral oil for you.
If LC, suggest HDEO lah. Else anything JASO MA or MA2 grade.

No oil is best oil la. Everyone end up finding their preference.
shyan90'sbila order you mia MT?
BuncitPesonawanapasal change oil so often?

ycgoh123many people go through this journey before... mod this and that. Ask everyone, all give different advise. Personally, ask yourself first, what do you want to achieve? Then, find a recipe to achieve that. CDI, porting, exhaust, carb... those are the means to achieve what you want. All have different function, and need to work together.

Some meaningful questions:
- how fast you want it to go? Peak HP
- how fast do you want to cruise at? Peak torque
- how much are you willing to spend
- how high fuel consumption can you tolerate
- how reliable does your bike have to be? max RPM, components... etc

Anyway, good luck in your search.

Save that money monthly, and upgrade to another bike.

The needle bearing, instead of praying for good quality Yamaha OE, might want to try look for after market bearings with the same spec.
Needle bearings are common, but best is to bring the exact one and find a match.

SpayZGlad to see you're alive.

Done.
What are you doing, and where are you?

SpayZwhich state? Still in O?

Slightly bad FC. Who set your carb? Set your carb again.
Check the plug for gap wear, if needed change new one.
Don't do anything else.

Not that I know of. If I have to do it, I'd get an old android phone, enable 'Android Device Manager', hide in waterproof enclosure and plug it constantly to the bike with GPS on.

But then, most will argue to put that extra money into better insuring the bike. My best guess, most stolen bikes would be dismantled within hours before we even realize it's gone... unless if it's really classic stuff.

What is 'heavy riding' in your case?
See page 1, there got good oil up to API-SN. If me, Hi-Rev also I don't mind using.

- you mean piston to head clearance? I think more important is valve to piston interference.
- Static could be up to 11, 14 is not unheard of. Should consider dynamic compression ratio.
- Those are not causing vibration. It's the balancer shaft and the new piston/rod/bearing and other moving components that you put in that no longer work in tandem. Try weigh the difference between stock and aftermarket piston and see. Other things could be, different ECU with different timing or higher clearance bearings...

Static compression ratio is not practical for performance, it's the dynamic comp ratio.
Difference is, DCR is measured after intake valve is closed. This greatly affects low end torque.
koei06Not sure what camshaft your using, and I guess you ported the head? Over porting makes low end power worse and not improving top end also, and especially with aftermarket pipes. You should consider narrowing the intake port to optimize it.

No, port velocity is what I'm thinking about here.
Without it, volumetric efficiency drops at low-mid RPM. Only barely enough velocity as RPM picks up, and then reach traffic light already.

usin_kangkongWelcome and thanks for sharing the valuable recipe.
What is the RPM at 150km/h?
To my knowledge, stock setup but change rear sprocket to 40 can reach that speed at 11k RPM. So the goal is to reach that power level.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 17 2017, 12:25 AM

charge-n-goI thought 180km per tank last time?
Mine 120cc average 170km per 4.5L. Bought a standard chamber will change after CNY... my 150cc will try a race chamber later on.

Dyno baru tahu. In most cases, if the electrical, air-fuel are ok, plug material don't matter significantly.