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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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TSalexei
post Jun 28 2016, 12:54 AM

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QUOTE(VagueConcerns @ Jun 27 2016, 11:32 PM)
Thank you.
One thing we learn is that bikes stuff can be more expensive than cars! So we're learning all kinds of stuff from the world of 2-wheelers.
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If u can dyno the shocks, do it. The damping chart is a must to perform any modeling or analysis, IINM. My interest is the results, to buy or not to buy RB for my next shocks.

Yes, bike parts can be expensive too. And you haven't try mountain bike parts.

Found some photos on SAE Malaysia FB page, and noticed karts using direct and bell cranks+pushrod.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 28 2016, 01:03 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 28 2016, 08:04 AM

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QUOTE(VagueConcerns @ Jun 28 2016, 02:40 AM)
It would be interesting to objectively measure our local shock brand, but we have to keep our options open.
We have a non-adjustable YSS (MO-series I think) from a previous car for another competition, but they are seized. No data on those, and the previous participants probably didn't care. It was for a much heavier car, (with a 1.0 Myvi engine, and even has a brake booster) but the pushrod suspension setup was quite poorly done and they were left at a compromising position for quite a while. We're considering mountain bike shocks too if not too expensive, then RB shocks and then maybe rebuilding a non-adjustable YSS or rebuilding the previous suspension (if no major parts are damaged, like piston rods and cylinders). In any case, we might be able to get some data for some motorcycle shocks that are previously only reviewed by feel. Would also be interesting to see just how different 4 identical motorcycle shocks could be (and have an insight into the manufacturer's capabilities).

I didn't notice any karts, but yeah everybody would design it as small as they can and they'd end up looking closer to glorified karts. I doubt that we'd be able to go as fast as a 125cc 2-stroke shifter kart, due to the rules imposed on our design, but we can be pretty quick. FSAE cars with a 600cc motorcycle engine can typically sprint to 100km/h in less than 4 seconds, and pull 1.5G or more in the corners. So you might be able to see comically fast little cars at the competition.  laugh.gif
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Cart photo, like this one here: SAE Malaysia
Rear engine view

Think I read somewhere, R6 engine has been used. Would it be more compact to use a single, or twin, or triple cylinder?
What about custom elastomer shocks? These are in high end mountainbike solutions. Would it gain weight advantage?
Easier to characterize, and may also be easier to swap out during a race, if the rule permits.

A dumb question, I noticed that the shocks would be mounted horizontally. Would you need to be concerned? Especially if you are using oil shocks.
I'm guessing if that could be the reason to the seized YSS you spoke of.
TSalexei
post Jul 17 2016, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(mstraad @ Jul 16 2016, 02:05 PM)
So that means I just continue where the previous owner left off right (as in next service @ 2500 km mark as usual)?

Thanks brother...
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That oil looks ok. Keep it until next service.
I'd go for Liqui Moly 10W-60 Race, fully synthetic.
TSalexei
post Jul 19 2016, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Jul 18 2016, 10:11 PM)
hi all, if there any difference between Parkson credit and Aeon credit? which one is better and low interest? the motor shop tell me need to submit 3 months salary slip but need at least working six months, how if not yet working six months@@
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Sorry, but based on what you mentioned of your situation, I really wouldn't recommend you take the loan so fast.
People I know, won't take those loans unless desperate. They charge 10~18% per year.
Save more cash before buy the bike. Work first.

If take those loan, by the time you finish pay, you would have paid almost 1.5x of the bike, in less than 5 years.
You loan 5k, pay 7.5k by end of loan. By then, the bike worth 3 quarter the original value.
That means your net loss is 3.75k in 5 years for owning that bike.

Borrow a bike, tumpang friend bike/car, take company bus/shuttle, pay the petrol fee... whatever...
The longer you can save the money, the better your financial situation.
In the meantime, look for financial instruments that gains you good quick returns.
I guarantee you, six months later, you can afford that bike, and with more money in your pocket.

Not only that, the moment you sign ownership for the bike, it's value decrease 1k at least.
Ask the shop, trade in value of a 6 months old bike and you'll know.
TSalexei
post Jul 20 2016, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Jul 20 2016, 12:27 AM)
Thanks for your advise. 
because my current motor CT100 condition is not so good. And i need to ride from Seri kembangan to Ampang Park to work. So i need a better motor. one motor shop near me can trade in this ct100 for rm1100, so i worry the longer time i consider the lower the trade in value. he offer me Aeon-credit with 10.XX% every year and i plan to take 135LC and two years. I will thinking about your advise. thanks
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CT100 if not good can fix, then by all means.

The bike value won't go down any lower, compare to the value lost when buying new bike.
Daily travel 20km one way, is tough I'd say. But I do that with my 2006 RGV everyday. Many ppl ride that distance with an older bike than yours, I think.

If you really want that bike, then go for it. I'm not against getting a new bike, just the loan I'm worried for you.
Also, if you miss one payment, there seems to be severe penalty. Check first.

Try to get personal loan, usually with better interest.
Look for online offers, consult Financial section in LYN, or check with any bank.

If you loan 5k, compare personal loan and AEON loan:
10% for 2 years personal loan with reducing interest, means by end of 2 years, you pay RM500 interest.
10% AEON loan means by end of 2 years, you pay extra RM1000 interest.

Good luck.

QUOTE(mls_gamer @ Jul 20 2016, 01:25 PM)
ended up using liqui moly 10w50 fully syn.
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Maintain bike like more expensive than car....
Today just went survey gear oil price for my bike... Castrol RM30 for 5 liter, or Toyota RM20 for 1 liter... hmm...

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 20 2016, 01:36 PM
TSalexei
post Jul 22 2016, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(FooFighters82 @ Jul 20 2016, 09:38 PM)
Hi,

had my first black oil change for lc 135.Mechanic recommend both brand which is Caltex and Liquimoly.Mechanic say Liquimoly is relatively new brand and better.So I decide to take Liquimoly 20W-50 and give it a try.Would like to know which brands are reliable for lc 135.
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Welcome.
Check page 1 for oil list.
TSalexei
post Jul 22 2016, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(tgmape @ Jul 21 2016, 06:31 AM)
im planning to buy this bike for my working commute from pajam to bangsar(around 50km 1-way).
My concern are
1. fuel consumption - do i need to fuel everyday?
2. maintainance
Any thought on this? Or should i look for bigger bike?
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Which bike? 135LC or Y15ZR?
1. No need, but about 1.5 days probably.
2. Quite high, compared to other 4 stroke kapcai.
Suggest you a > 200cc bike with fairing. Since you travel highway, better get a twin or triple cylinder, not single.
TSalexei
post Jul 22 2016, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(tgmape @ Jul 22 2016, 02:34 PM)
yeah. i am looking at fz150 as an option now. Read many review said it is quite a good to be used as daily bike.
The only downside is that it do not have "bakul". tongue.gif
Actually my concern for bike with fairing is the riding position. I read alot of people said riding position for sport bike is not ideal for long distance because it might hurt your back.
One more thing is that, sport bike cannot cilok2 in city  tongue.gif
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You need 2 bikes.
TSalexei
post Jul 26 2016, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Jul 26 2016, 12:22 PM)
I got plan to modify the front light (signal light there) to some other LED light. any recommend for it please? and is it necessary to add the radiator cover at below there? thanks
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You need LED blinker relay, or use at least a 5W LED module.
Visibility won't be as good as standard bulb.
TSalexei
post Aug 5 2016, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Aug 5 2016, 02:20 PM)
My fuel meter got problem, it stuck at F there two days already. i total ride over 100km since last time refill so its impossible now still funk tank @@ anyone here got experience about this?
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You pumped full tank right? Normal, it'll drop after 130km like that. Just keep riding, and now is the previous moment to do hard break in. Did you read page 1?

Recommended oil also there. Go read. Please, people spent a lot of time to put things there.
TSalexei
post Aug 16 2016, 02:00 AM

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QUOTE(aizat22 @ Aug 15 2016, 05:06 PM)
I follow the guide at 1st page on how to break in when i got my lc, mine now 548km mileage
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Thanks for reading the guide. Glad it helped.

ycgoh123Seems like you doing slow break-in. Good luck.
TSalexei
post Aug 16 2016, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Aug 16 2016, 09:41 AM)
yes for the first 400km i ride slow. i am too noob to understand the page 1 pro guide. bangwall.gif
now already 1000km+, its done for the slow break in anyway right?
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There's a youtube video. Unless you have problem following that also.
Now that you've ridden your bike past the new period, you can't do it anymore.

QUOTE(dreamerf_14 @ Aug 16 2016, 09:48 AM)
for me not ok, I am using highway and I need my top speed. been using different kinds of EO coz my mechanic didn't maintain his stock.
I've used Motul, Yamahalube, Blue Dawn, Shell (Worst top speed but pickup ok). Now try to maintain Motul and see how it goes.

What EO are you using?
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You want top, if still using LC135 not Y15ZR, can try xW-30 oil.
Who sets your carburator? Then, lean out the pilot jet bit by bit.

TSalexei
post Aug 17 2016, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(dreamerf_14 @ Aug 16 2016, 11:17 AM)
My place is hard to find that oil.
My mechanic in Sentul set my carb previously when I changed my EO last month, he mentioned now got white smoke coming out bangwall.gif
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What smoke is it? Oil fume or water vapor?
TSalexei
post Aug 17 2016, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(dreamerf_14 @ Aug 17 2016, 10:36 AM)
oil fume I guess... can u tell me the difference between both?
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Water vapor will dissipate after it leave the exhaust tip.
Oil fume doesn't... and it smells...
TSalexei
post Aug 23 2016, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(farghmee @ Aug 22 2016, 05:06 PM)
Selamat petang tuan puan.

Is there any difference in "handling" for y15zr n fz150 for long distance (80km nilai-kl-nilai).

Just doing Internet study here. Not yet test ride.
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YZ15R much better with wider rims and tyres.
FZ150 has a tank, so in some ways better for cornering.
TSalexei
post Sep 2 2016, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(Owweichieh91 @ Sep 2 2016, 01:29 PM)
Im using maxxis 80/90. N now after I change my front  disc pad when pressing brake I can heard a squeal sound after that only stop izit this problem normal after changing new pad.
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What brake pads you changed to? If metal type, will have squeal sound. After some time they bed in, it should go away.
If it doesn't go away, check the brake pads back plate is missing or not.
TSalexei
post Sep 4 2016, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(Owweichieh91 @ Sep 3 2016, 10:16 AM)
When pressing it won't stop directly it keep sound then only slowly  stop.normal.
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Do you mean the brake not makan?
Or, you mean if press the brake softly?
TSalexei
post Sep 9 2016, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(Owweichieh91 @ Sep 9 2016, 10:17 AM)
The brake quite makan but when pressing it not directly stop .it slow down then screeching sound then only stop
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Blast the brakes pads with water, then go out ride.
I do this with car brakes and it works.

Also, check if anything else other than the brake pads are touching the brake disc. Happened to my bike, where the bracket had a clip that touches the disc when brake is applied. But, this should not be your case with new pads.
TSalexei
post Sep 11 2016, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(VIXVXXIV @ Sep 11 2016, 03:17 PM)
Need advise  icon_question.gif

Now my bike when I rembat, will come out smoke. Tak banyak but I don't think it's normal either. Previously my top speed can reach 125km/h - 130km/h, but now max 120, itu pun need a long straight road and bike will vibrate. My choice now is:

1. Overhaul and up CC to either 150 or 180
2. Change bike to either FZ150 or CB150

The only reason I still want to keep using my LC is because can put bakul in front (senang nak simpan baju hujan and letak makan) and I have already spent quite a bit on the bike. Upping the CC to 180 preferably cause 135 is too slow for me now. How is the total expenditure like and for daily use, can tahan berapa lama before need to overhaul lagi. I always rembat on the way to school

If change bike, I assume CB150R better than FZ150? In terms of horsepower and FC. Is CB150r aftermarket parts as easy to get as FZ150?

I nak count and see all angle 1st before doing anything. Either way, maybe end of the year baru decide. Kumpul duit  blush.gif
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Carb is rich, FC must be rather high.

If up CC, depends what cam you use, if not aggressive and gives a lot of low end torque, then you can go pretty fast without high rev. Such bike maintenance is relatively lower than high rev setup.

Not familiar with aftermarket parts... if so like rembat, might as well tune a 2 stroke.
TSalexei
post Sep 13 2016, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(VIXVXXIV @ Sep 11 2016, 07:32 PM)
So that smoke is due to rich carb tuning? The pipe end slightly oily and I assume it's cause of piston ring need to change. Also, sometimes when it's very quiet, I can hear a very light high pitch sound, similar to whistling.

If up cc, I want to use faito low cam since its for daily use so fc won't be so high.

Thinking of 2 stroke like ninja RR, but high fc and additional 2t is a turn off
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How is your FC? This can tell.
Not sure about the whistling problem, need to diagnose.

Not sure about Faito products. FC is about tuning or setting with the hardware you have. Best is to aim riding long distance within the torque RPM range.
4 stroke more flexible. 2 stroke when you get it right, can be better than 4 stroke.

QUOTE(dagreatdzul @ Sep 13 2016, 04:18 PM)
Hope you guys can give me some points on the Y15zr.

Thankss =)
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What points do you need?

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