Nobody knows for sure, Xena 2 with alarm used to be highly recommended.
To me, a decent chain with padlock, locking up both the wheels to the fork and swingarm is the best.

Just bear in mind, a lock can only be deterrent to a thief. Use some common sense how to apply the lock.

Here are some of the things they could do to mess with your bike:
- Rim and fork lock - Low. Too many weak link, so IMO it is not secure.
- Disc lock - Moderate. Thief can remove your rim, open the disc, and put back the rim and ride off. Cheap locks are not stainless mechanism, so after a while, the key mechanism will jam inside and cannot be opened.
- Standard steering lock with magnet cover - Moderate. Can be dismantled, or break open by force. In some cases, the steering head will loosen first before the lock is broken. So, in case your bike kena langgar, check the steering lock for cracks and have it replaced.
- Rear sprocket padlock or disc lock - More secure than putting the disc lock at front disc, but can be messy due to chain oil.
- Long chain with padlock securing the bike to a pillar or something - Must have good padlock. More secure, but troublesome and can scratch coverset.
- Bicycle lock - Cheap one can open with hammer.
- Immobilizer - some add on electronics to guard your bike from unwanted ignition. Can simply DIY and hidden switch to the battery terminal or the CDI. Make sure wiring is installed correctly. No alarm is better, otherwise the thief will know your bike got alarm, and prepare for it.

For a good padlock, prepare to spend RM50+ each.
If the padlock is RM50 for 2 or 3, it is for hiasan, and will not stand a chance.

I wanted to add that, but wasn't sure if LC has that. Does it?

IMO, I would say, it will be as good as the lock used. Double stand lock is troublesome to attach, since everytime you need to squat down to reach below the bike, but it is even more troublesome for a thief trying to break it. However, a thief can try to pry it open, but if the lock can withstand it, the lock ring would bend first.

What you think, bro?

Good for you. And yeah, that's exactly how I imagined it.

nope. some use acetone.

Need to find the wiring diagram to figure out... Do you have pic of the item?

Then you need to find the wiring diagram for LC and figure out the ignition coil wire.

You must've not tried uncle google.
Here you go, look for wire #11:

You'll need to pay for some extra stuff, like footrest modification and labor charges.
I'm guessing a ballpark of RM300~500.

Parts you'll need: Rim, disc, brake pump, brake hose, reservoir, brake fluid, brake pads.
Mods you'll need: Swing arm for caliper mount, footrest for brake pump, brake reservoir mount.

Added, and welcome.
Which state are you from? Is it Kelantan?

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 20 2014, 09:21 PM

Ok, thanks... I thought I saw the number plate starting with 'D'.
Welcome to the club. Feel free to go through post #1 for some of the compiled learnings and trips, and ask any questions or seek better understanding.

Disclaimer: I do not own an LC, but been long time with this forum crowd.

boyadaratCheck the chain, is it too tight?
Make sure when you sit on it, there is free play with the chain.

radiohearBuy what you like. Would you regret more if you have chosen another color, but still wished you have taken the white instead?

hey man, what happened?

thianzDrive bigger bike only now? LC put aside mostly? Haha...

Lokasi mana? Do you want to be added to front page?
Can attach a photo also.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 6 2014, 08:08 AM

Stupid BS carbs...

Tips for you:
Close the pilot screw, and open 2.5 turns.
The bike will run very poorly, or not at all, without the airbox installed. The airbox also needs to be properly sealed, so consider replacing any deteriorated foam seals as needed.
If pod air filters are installed the carbs will have to be rejetted to match the low restriction airflow.
Fine tune the carbs (engine fully warmed up and idling) by adjust the pilot screws in roughly equal amounts until the highest idle speed is achieved. If the engine speed doesn’t respond to this tweak, leave them at 2.5 turns.
If the engine stumbles just off idle, try opening the pilot screws another ½ turn and try again.
The maximum number of open turns is four, otherwise you should get larger pilot jets.
If the engine surges or feels like it’s running outof gas when cruising at steady speed, such as on the freeway, opening the pilot screw more and/orshimming the needles may help.

Stupid BS carbs...

Tips for you:
Close the pilot screw, and open 2.5 turns.
The bike will run very poorly, or not at all, without the airbox installed. The airbox also needs to be properly sealed, so consider replacing any deteriorated foam seals as needed.
If pod air filters are installed the carbs will have to be rejetted to match the low restriction airflow.
Fine tune the carbs (engine fully warmed up and idling) by adjust the pilot screws in roughly equal amounts until the highest idle speed is achieved. If the engine speed doesn’t respond to this tweak, leave them at 2.5 turns.
If the engine stumbles just off idle, try opening the pilot screws another ½ turn and try again.
The maximum number of open turns is four, otherwise you should get larger pilot jets.
If the engine surges or feels like it’s running outof gas when cruising at steady speed, such as on the freeway, opening the pilot screw more and/orshimming the needles may help.

How good is your FC? Can you share?
Fuel screw means, the more you open, the more petrol.
For you, to open another 1.5 turn is too rich already. Normally, after you get the max RPM, is richen a little bit, that's even less than 1/8 turn.
For carb setting, even 1/8 a turn is considered sensitive. In my case, after setting done, I mark the pilot screw to check next time if setting go off.

Yes, for BS carb, as it is sensitive to air filter change.

For cold start, you need to richen the AFmix, that's why you have a choke. So, the bold parts in your quote is incorrect.

Rich and lean does affect the plug life, but that's not the right way of putting it, because when the plug already dead, most likely the engine, too. Practically speaking, it is the other way around: The plug has to be 'hot enough' to clean itself, and reading the plug can tell you if you are running rich or lean.

You change to 28mm manifold, and does it taper open? Or, is it 28mm all the way to silencer?
If it tapers open, better torque for low-mid RPM only, but if 28mm all the way, no torque at low RPM, peaky engine.
Better change everytime.

The fuel setting goes like this, lean -> ideal -> rich.
Only when over-rich it will bog down the engine, so, I would say start with 3.5 turn, and add another 1~2 minutes of a turn. This will only affect idle and 1/4th of the BS carb, which is something you can't tell. You will have to feel the engine response from off idle (slightly opening throttle) all the way to cruising speed.

Idling just need to set higher than normal during carb tune. If 2.5~3.5k RPM, that might reach the jet needle setting range already.
Once you get the pilot fuel screw correct, and notice cruising steady at quarter to half throttle is not good, then you adjust the jet needle.
After that, test half throttle to full throttle, look for flat spot, and adjust mainjet.

With the 28mm manifold, you might need to tune mainjet later. But, don't worry too much, figure out the pilot fuel screw first.

My RGV plug reads between 'good' to 'best' now. For a 2 stroke to read a clean plug like that, took me a long time.
Perhaps later I open it and have a look again, it's been a while.
My journey took me through setting the pilot air screw, dropping the jet needle, reducing mainjet twice, and set the pilot air screw again until satisfied.

Now, FC is city @ 170~180km, highway @ 280km per 4.9 liter petrol.

piju1~2 minutes of a turn, expressed like a clock face, a small amount of turn. Example, if 5 minutes would be like 1/12 of a turn.

Yes, experience the acceleration by slowly twisting the throttle. If there is a bog or hesitant, tune again... until satisfied.

For plug reading, refer to this: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

NewGUYThat fuelly profile is you? I added as fuelly friend now. My RGV FC seems better, using 70/90 and 80/90 tyres.

Duro with biji on side? Is it like sisik? Maybe too new to me, haven't been looking at tyres lately. Can you share pics? There are 2 commonly good one, the HF-918 that looks like Battlax BT039, and Duro RS that looks like Michelin Pilot Power.

Start again from 1 turn onwards, until the max RPM. Then, open another 2~3 minutes, just so slightly.
Idle RPM is adjusted with idle screw.