QUOTE
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Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings
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Jun 2 2014, 05:14 PM
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#81
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
Buy LC, can beat KR150 and Ninja 250.
QUOTE » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « |
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Jun 2 2014, 09:43 PM
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#82
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
I use R3x on my 2stroke.
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Jun 2 2014, 09:46 PM
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#83
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(azdilaamizwar @ Jun 2 2014, 09:14 PM) Side effect is, it is so much cheaper compared to motorcycle EO and it makes you worry.You don't believe the quality is so much better in comparison. Then, you notice some weird sound, and you blame the EO. And, after a while, anything also macam tak betul, and you blame the EO... Just kidding. Please read first page about recommended EO for bikes. R4x is similar to Shell Rotella. |
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Jun 2 2014, 09:48 PM
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#84
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 2 2014, 11:10 PM
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#85
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 3 2014, 11:06 PM
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#86
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
Mr.CoMoTsad to hear.
when you fall the first time, did the tyre kena the road stripes? please avoid road stripes when wet, even when you're going straight. the second incident, during an emergency braking on a straight line, how is it possible that you can tergolek? is it becoz the front tyre slipped? or the rear tyre? what kind of bike did u use to ride? maybe you're not used to the new brakes on LC? |
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Jun 4 2014, 10:28 AM
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#87
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
- quoted by piju below -
This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 4 2014, 01:58 PM |
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Jun 5 2014, 10:26 PM
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#88
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
pijuAbout oil viscosity, here's what I found, and you'll have to read through it a little bit, hope it will answer some of your questions or provide new perspective:
Bob is the oil guy Motorcycle Oil Page The important thing is the first table and the last column, "high shear viscosity". - The value of 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 and and xxW-50 are the same at 3.7cP. - To me, this means that I should be using this grade of xxW-40 EO, for the same level of engine protection of a xxW-50 EO. - This type of xxW-40 EO, will have the benefit of lower viscosity, hence, better at flowing, removing heat from engine parts, and lower self heat generation, compared to xxW-50 EO. This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 5 2014, 11:45 PM |
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Jun 5 2014, 11:48 PM
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#89
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
Riding safety:
QUOTE Many riders will tell you to wear bright orange or red clothing, and to get a device that flashes your headlight. Personally, I disagree with this: I believe that when car drivers see me, they steer for me. It's that "you go where you look" thing. I'd rather be invisible and completely responsible for my own safety. However, I note that most riding instructors will disagree with this and tell you to do everything you can to get the attention of other drivers. You'll have to make your own call on this. One thing on which the MSF instructors and I will readily agree: if your safety program is to hope and believe that car drivers will look out for you, you are going to be a statistic. On a motorcycle, defensive and predictive driving is everything. Source: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/MotorcycleIntro4.html |
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Jun 6 2014, 04:56 PM
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#90
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
pijuyou're reading the table wrongly.
10W-40 has lower shear force, than 15W-40. 15W-40 has similar shear force requirements to a 15W-50. Viscosity numbers, the lower the lighter, faster heat transfer, lesser internal friction and self heat generation. |
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Jun 10 2014, 12:25 AM
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#91
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(jern25 @ Jun 9 2014, 05:25 PM) Slide me couple of times. This is budget tyre. Can't recommend it for grip.Michelin also mention this tyre grip is 2/5. Source: Michelin website This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 10 2014, 12:27 AM |
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Jun 10 2014, 05:23 PM
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#92
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 11 2014, 06:18 PM
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#93
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 11 2014, 11:09 PM
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#94
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 11 2014, 09:36 PM) Not that I know of. You need to know the Yamaha color codes that you want, then get people to mix it.Resources |
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Jun 12 2014, 10:03 AM
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#95
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 09:29 AM) i have replace my LC front tyre to 90/80. already alter front mudguard but the tyre still scrubbing my front mudguard when im doing emergency braking. Tyre is too big for the stock mudguard, need to replace with others like FZ, IINM.the tyre is not center when braking. folk stabilizer can really solve this problem? Stock LCES should have a metal bracket under the front mudguard, I know because I salvaged a piece for my future mod. Tyre not center, is it relative to the headlamp? Or relative to the mudguard... please elaborate more. |
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Jun 12 2014, 02:58 PM
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#96
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
Manual vs auto is like Cola vs 7-up, both types have their strengths and weaknesses.
Technically speaking, auto-clutch generates more clutch dust into the EO, compared to manual clutch. Different viscosity oil affects auto-clutch, too. But, most riders don't feel it. Auto-clutch also have lower end specs (rim size, tyre size, brake type), compared to manual bikes... QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 10:59 AM) the problem come only when braking. the tire & mudguard will misaligned when braking. My LCES 5speed doesnt have metal bracket under front mudguard as im the one who alter the mudguard. Do aftermarket folk stabilizer will solve this issue? will Racing Boy V1 folk stabilizer fit into LC 5S? because i dont like the design of the V2 folk stabilizer. I think you know very well that it should not behave like that. Can you check if there's a screw loose, or brake disc not tightened? How about the fork T-clamp? Fork stabilizer will hide the issue, not fix it. QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 01:40 PM) Hi guys. I used to own a 135LC. Now planning to get one with clutch. Is the one with clutch better or not? I had duke 200 for a year so im quite comfortable with clutch. Any suggestions? ty How is Duke 200? Any reason you're considering LC?QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 12 2014, 02:16 PM) I don't think there is, but you can try ACE Hardware. Sometimes they have aerosol paint for bikes. |
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Jun 12 2014, 05:43 PM
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#97
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Senior Member
1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 12 2014, 03:11 PM) alexei, Maybe the fork oil level not same on both sides... check everything.yes, it should not behave like that. its like 1 of the folk is softer than the other. so, u think its better to put in folk stabilizer or try to search for other permanent solution? any ideas? all LC having issue on front folk? -to check, pull front brake and push ur bike forward. see how the tire & mudguard moving, is it center or the tire will move a bit to the right. |
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Jun 12 2014, 10:08 PM
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#98
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE(zkhin @ Jun 12 2014, 07:06 PM) Dad sold it off and got a duke 690. I just graduated so maintaining that duke200 itself is a problem. So now planning to get one for city ride, i ride a lot around. I prefer the clutch one actually. So it is good compared to non clutch ones? fwah.I'd say it'd be better for you to get manual ES, over auto SS. |
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Jun 13 2014, 12:08 AM
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#99
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 13 2014, 07:12 AM
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#100
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1,878 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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