Stage 1 mod concept covers a lot of stuff, but in essence anything that can be immediately bolted on, or directly swapped out from stock, without additional work to be done to the engine. It is not just about improving performance, but also handling of the vehicle.

- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

Stage 2 can be more aggressive of stage 1 mods, require more work on the engines, or adding things:
- Intake+Exhaust port and polish: valve and tappet
- Big bore block + piston kit + carb
- Camshaft
- Crankshaft, jack rod, jack pin etc
- Gearset
- Oil cooler
- Radiator fan
- Weight reduction
- CDI remap

Stage 3 is race preparation, which I don't know a lot about.

As some of you are new to this forum, I am only moderating this V18.
I currently do not own any Yamaha LC, so my experience with this bike is limited.
I only own 2 strokes, and knows a thing or two about motorcycle.

If I do not answer your questions, it simply means I do not know. Please be patient, and wait for sifu to reply you.

Air filter can use UNI, or K&N. Not sure how much. Got other high flow ones.
Brake pads got a lot of brand, Elig, Ferodo are some I know. Making sure the pads and disc do not kena oil is the key.
Engine oil can be RM20-50+. Check page one for recommended bike EO.
Fork oil must make sure both side balance. You can use cap ayam RM3, to Motul.
Monoshock Kayaba is pretty good.
Spark plug NGK G-power RM12. Other like Iridium would be expensive around RM50. NGK plug cable about RM30, red color.

These mods above is to let your bike use better parts, and may require some minor setting adjustments such as pilot screw with the installation of high flow air filters. You can easily spend up to RM300~400, and do not get huge improvements.

Stage 2 will really burn your pocket, and that I have no experience.
Need to ask owners like serigala, thianz, crappy123.

yes. the tyres have to match the rim size, not the weight.
those tyres can carry weight, as normal two passengers would weight >120kg, or those penjaja EX5, just imagine.

Looking forward to your membership here.

We talked about this in V17, and many times before.
I think the numbers are like RM8 for 140km like that. In theory, this is a 40 km per liter bike, so at RM8, it should be able to go 160km.
I am sure it can do better if tuned for better fuel efficiency. I won't be surprised if it can do 200km.

125z I'm not sure, but as many 2 strokes, it can vary a lot.
A poorly tuned one would only go for less than 100km for RM8.

Check the plug tip, should be slightly grey ash, and the ground electrode is oil free.
Once bike warmed up, throttle response is good and not too much smoke. Exhaust sound is snappy, and not sluggish.

Sorry to hear that. Roadtax also want to steal? Must be desperate.
Now better change to new set of ori key lock.

You got put disc lock, right?

It depends what you want. You asked for minor mod...

Ride your bike for a while, then figure out what you want to improve, then do it.

1. Some say Diasil no need to break in.
2. Best to DIY using wire mesh, or kasa dawai. Those sold outside just plain rangka that doesn't do well protecting the radiator.
3. Most likely is HDEO.

First you'll need to figure out how much damage. Can be up to RM300 to fix everything.
Some possibilities: Steering clamp, steering bar, fork, rim, brake disc, bike frame...

Is this your first bike? Is the vibration serious, or minor?
Serious vibration means your feet will be vibrated and slide off the footrest.
Minor means, you can barely feel it just through the tapak kasut, but that's all...

You can find it in page 1 tips section on EO. There are a few, from mineral to fully synthetic.
I am using R3X, the cheapest.

that's bad... my RGV did 280km with 4.8liter full tank on highway.
How fast were you riding at?

Stock condition mia LC can be like that, especially if the carburator have never been serviced.

Check out here for a list of users who tracks their bike fuel consumption : https://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/yamaha/lc135
As you can see, average users are getting 44-46 km per liter, so at full tank of 4 liter, that's about what you can hope to achieve.

Normally, I'm guessing, you would fill about RM7, which is 3.33 liter, multiply by 45km per liter, you get 150km per tank under normal riding condition.

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 12 2014, 03:15 PM

you can try talk to pomen to use leaner pilot jet.

There's been a lot of LC convoys.
KL - Kuantan you can try ask are_keem, who used to go KT, IINM.

Hi bro,
Autofoam will increase the stiffness of chassis, not the strength, and there are pros and cons to that.
Remember, the autofoam may not be fully removed later on.

Short answer is, I don't know for sure what happens. Some of the possibilities includes:
- Chassis stiffness increase, not the strength.
- Engine and road vibration will be more apparent to the rider.
- Uneven application of the foam may cause imbalance to the bike.
- Increased stiffness may increase the rate of joint metal fatigue. Meaning, the weaker part of the chassis will start to show signs of crack or break faster.
- Avoid internal rusting.

Perhaps I would give it a try, on the main underbone.

Added. Welcome... I guess you're from Penang, then?

Added to front page...
What do you ride now? Still the same bike?

Islander... Please checkout page 1, if any specific topic you're interested in.
For new bike, nothing much, except accessories I guess...

IMO, 600cc won't be enough, still. Do consider one of those triples...
Add 250cc for 33% more peak torque and flatter response... am referring to FZ-09.

welcome... added to namelist and bikelist.