G-power not tahan... 3k km the electrode shorten liao.

My mindset is different, then... haha.
Money is spend less the better for me.

Yeah, my bike problem. Just saying.

After changing plug heat range, did you read it to make sure?

No, the ground electrode... it tells if correct heat range or not be it lean or rich.

Not suitable. Here's the recommended rim size:
80/90 - 1.6 ~ 1.85
90/80 - 2.15
100/80 - 2.75

If use under sized rims, the contact patch at cornering is small, and using the wrong area of the tyres...

No. Follow crankcase volume.

This setting looks bad... plug is too cold. Need to keep 6.

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 18 2016, 05:17 PM

No, the size chart is generic.
If fit tyre on a smaller rim, then the tyre will look big, and bulging. So, with the tyre rounded, yes, contact patch is less compared to a flatter tyre.

Sidewall height is a balance between comfort and performance.
The lower sidewall, supposedly better performance but less comfort.

If idle also tan, rich liao.

Hope you're reading correctly, between 6 or 7 is to look at the ground electrode, not the plug tip. You should see a good 'separation' zone. Every part of the plug end means different thing - idle, cruise, WOT etc...

Those two holes are called 'vents'. It should be connected to open hoses to balance air pressure in the fuel bowl.
If they are connected, means it is not functioning. Air striker kits, IINM, are power jets, fitted to the filter side ceiling.

Good luck. Here's mine.
2T pump got problem, otherwise good IMO.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Good coil? Need a right voltage one, and temperature stable... then the ignition will be fine.
Over-volting your plug is bad for the engine.

Mine will have the smoke after not starting for few days, because it's leaking into the crankcase.
Once warmed up, there is little smoke. But, the burnt residue is visible on the plug, and I can imagine the carbon inside the combustion chamber, too.

FZ rim is not recommended for tubeless IIRC. But most ppl do it anyway.

Jangan susah hati, good u tell us your situation.

If need, we can buy and ship to you, why not? But, heavy things, best way is pos laut, take 21 days to collect... but item arrive like poslaju, only that they compound it for 3 weeks before letting you collect.

I think the most recent one, I added the JASO MA2 EO list for 10/15/20W-50 and 10/20W-60.
This EO is recommended for Y15ZR and FZ150i v2.

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 29 2016, 09:13 AM

No.

Repsol Fully Synthetic 10W-40 RM39 at Tesco now.
Normal price RM69. Street price RM44.

Make sure hard break-in done right.
Do this with new rings, and polished block. Not rebored block, since Diasil should not be rebored.

Quality FS oil is a requirement on 4 stroke engines, even more so with wet clutch and water cooled engines.

Clutch and gear systems shear the oil, and low quality oil molecule will not be enough to last until the next oil change. This one calls for API GL-1 or API GL-4 oil grade. No stamp on the oil bottle doesn't mean it's bad.
Comparison available here: Amsoil 5W-30 API-SN four ball wear tests

For water cooled engines, as the oil travels through the internal of the bike, it is being cooled and heated regularly. Imagine the oil viscosity is different at various parts of the engine. Problem is, when the engine oil is 'over-cooled' (faulty thermostat, or running bypass) the viscosity is high when it should be low. The need for high temp stability benefit of FS, when engine oil is not cooled sufficiently.

HDEO is good for detergency... meaning keeping the engine clean... it may be lesser in the wear and tear protection, but a good base stock (FS) still matters. At page 1, there is a link to recommended oil list.

Personally, kapcai 2 stroke runs different oil, 2T for engine and 4T for gear oil.