You driving is nice and caption was funny...Hahahahaha

Buy kancil better.....kancil FTW....Muahahahaha

davidke20 got time let you drive mine....see how's the feel..

Let you test see if the difference of 3mm makes a different handling

Quazacolt true also.....

davidke20 regarding the drop link on the 3Max ARB when I got them I also have thought of improving them using DIY method and stuff from Hardware store....

I'm done this to my 206 ball joint link and steering tie rod end. I replace them with Hem joints. Below, What prompted me to change is because my 206 ball joint link especially the under side rubber boot tear open very fast due to lowering and I was frustrated in changing them almost every 7 months so I went around and have this idea to use hem joints instead. I bought 6 pcs of it, 3 feet of full thread bar, bolts & nuts and spring washers and fabricated my own adjustable ball joint link and tie rod ends. The result was very promising as the rubber boot section was taken away, steering was very direct and ball joint movement was precise. The car felt very much sharper than before. Then I went on to make PU washers and slot them in between the absorber mount and the ball joint link as I wanted to make the link have a straighter position. For the tie rod end, after lowering my tie rod end was not straight and was sitting on an angle this puts a lot of stress on the rubber joints so I make another set and inverted the position of the tie rod end this makes the end having a plain straight line this gave back much better steering control.



As for this to replace the DROP LINK, this can be an idea to DIY also. From what I think will need to fabricate 4 pcs PU bush in between the ARB and the DROP LINK bolt. This take away the rubber boot section. I have seen this type of joints being use in offroad 4x4 before.

what's you guys suggestion and thought about this?

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 27 2013, 10:17 AM

PU bush depends on how easy it can be machined out from a block or round bar. Like the hard rubber holding the ARB that one I got try to make but I didn't have square PU bar. I only have round shape PU bar in my factory. Also the rubber that holds the bar is not normal rubber it's harden rubber so no need to make it into PU if make into PU the fitting of the PU bush will need not be same. Need to cut the fitment hole in half then only can fit into the mounting. Maybe can try to look around the market to find those PU bushing for ARB on other cars and try to fit since the bush seems normal to me and maybe interchangeable with other.

For such DIY, if one does not have mechanical or automotive know how then I would suggest you don't do it because the parts you buy, you need to know how to differentiate between good and reliable ones from those cheap ones. Hardware store stuff range from cheap to expensive for the same item...Important is you need to know how all these parts work together and how to assemble them so that they won't break, how to secure them so they don't get loosen or fall out. I have my fair share of trial and error.

Just like how China can copycat German machinery but why German machinery can outlast a China one...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 27 2013, 10:42 AM

My area here got a few machine shop who do machining job some have full automatic CnC machine where the operator takes the measurement and input into the computer and have use solid works to draw create a 3D image with measurement and input into the CnC machine and the machine will cut the part out with 100% precision. This type is suitable and more cost effective if want to mass produce a component or parts but price will not be cheap

2nd type is manual operated machine, where the operator takes the sample measurement then make a part out bit by bit...this takes long time, patient and precision...this one suitable if making 1 off parts but will have to wait for quite a long time. But precision of parts made would be 85% accurate or so depends on skill and experience of operator. I'm having the manual operated machine so how good a parts is depends on the machinist's experience and skill but I'm now in the midst of looking for a semi auto CnC machine to upgrade my workshop side and a new automated drilling station because of the machine parts I have is unique so having outside ppl to do takes long time and expensive in the long run I might as well, invest some to buy my own machine and do in house better.

Yup.....but it's a learning process.....we learn new stuff which are out of our scope....

Sei loh......another victim

Do in house mean, in factory not at home la....if I do at home...I need to have 3 phase 415V to my house jor and not 240V.....and my house not so big can put machinery la...

Usually heavy machinery needs 415V 4 (3 live, 1 neutral) wire system, and the machines are driven by 3 phase AC motor because if single phase the wire will won't be able to handle the electrical load going through it and will caught fire and burn.

Cannot la...ARB or steel bar that have shape is all heated and bend into shape one....you don't machine out a bar from a chunk of metal because too much material wasted and impossible to do. Example throttle body, is cast out from a ALU mold then send to CnC machine to cut away uneven surface, extra area and to make the surface flat, even and according to specifications. Same goes to engine block...mold out then send to CnC dept for finishing.

415V is consider industrial use already....I have seen some big big bungalow they change from 240V to 415V with request from TNB and a new junction box is fitted outside the house....I see the reason behind this is because like hotel as they have a lot of AC units, lightning, this and that...the power draw is very strong so if using single phase the load on a single life wire is very heavy and not efficient as power will lost through heat and dangerous also la....me not electrical diploma student or degree, just learn all this from experience and talking to fellow TNB ppl who comes visit my factory time to time to check on the DB and main junction box.

Also for factory, we need to fit capacitor banks, just like the VS in our car.....reason is that TNB supply this much of power but if you didn't use that much you need to store them up so that the extra power is not wasted and you kena the penalty for the wasted power if they are not stored. That's why when I go rounding factory I always need to check my capacitor banks. I have 7 banks on each main incoming junction box. Cannot fall below 0.90

IINM 6.5 or 7....I lupa....

Oh...ok ok +35..

the 0.90 thing I mentioned is Power Factor...we don't want to have a low power factor in the factory
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor

http://www.tnb.com.my/business/charges-and...-surcharge.html

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 27 2013, 12:01 PM

There are single phase motor also but those are consider light load like for AC or house peti sejuk...3 phase motor can have 2 rotating direction by reversing the wire connection. But for industrial use 3 phase motor is better than single phase as the starting power surge is less than a single phase.

Your fuse burn is the main before the TNB meter or the individual CB at the fuse box? If before the meter try to check the fuse...IINM it's 63A fuse....

Yes, higher PF on the motor means it's a very efficient motor....as less power is lost

For the powerline thing, just my own understanding la....is because if factory use less power the extra power that goes back to TNB sub station is consider a lost and it also burdens their equipment.
From what I understand. Factory end we received 415V but at the TNB substation it is generating more than that why? because when power is delivery to factory via cables some amount of it will be lost through the cables so TNB substation equipment will need to pump out more V so that the end gets a steady flow of 415V. That's why I have TNB guys who come over to my factory to check their 3 live incoming to see if the load is balance on all 3 cables.

Reason TNB have penalty if factory is low in PF is like I do so much for you to meet your end request but in actual you using so little only...wasted all my resource...something like that...

capacitor is to store extra electrical charge, and it is discharge overtime or there's a drop..so that you don't pull the power from the main source all the time...

If in before meter burn means there might be a input surge from TNB substation...this happens....sometimes there's drop also...happen at my factory before input power was lower on all 3 phase 380V only...causing my machine to have problems especially the motors...

All household or housing comes with single phase only. Only commercial or factory have 3 phase 415V power supply but for houses to have 415V need to apply with TNB 1st then they will arrange to do installation but need to pay money one...

If you have many AC units try to have them on a different individual CB. 1 AC to 1 CB so that each AC have their own supply. If you use Ac for long period of time best to get those with inverter so that when the compressor kicks in the surge won't be so strong.....with inverter the compressor start up gradually until it reaches it's full power less surge, less sudden draw of power ...unlike conventional when the compressor kicks in the surge is sudden. Actually why our electricity is expensive with AC is because of the surge that AC, fridge, water heater produce.....

Example of AC with inverter and W/O
Full power is 10

Inverter type AC compressor kick in
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10

conventional AC compressor kick in
1---10

If those not having inverter AC (since with inverter they are quite expensive) best is to use ECO mode if your AC have it this makes the AC maintain its temp and don't keep changing the temp as this will make the compressor kick in and out, in and out....not good for electricity bill.

Try to get those trust worthy electrician and experience ones because when it comes to electricity is a no play play stuff....done wrongly it could cost you a house and worst family members and yourself. Like my factory when I moved in that time, the wireman did sub-standard cable he laid cannot take the load when my factory is fully operational and this cause my DB section CB to keep tripping due to overloading and upon inspection with another trusted wireman. Found that he use under gauge wires and simply tap live from those 3 phase input and this cause the load to be unbalance on 3 cables and it gives problem to my machine because on 3 phase AC motor, your 3 input need to be the same if 1 input is low the motor will not run or it will run but very hot at the magnetic switch and fry the switch or the motor..