Thanks for enlightening me on the terminology & the difference between parallel and series connections. I prefer parallel connection as I think that my amp can handle loads of 4 ohm and I don't have to increase the volume. I may have to pay the price for my folly later on.

guys... any new picture for ur setup?

Haha,

Like I said before.. as long as u like it, whos to say otherwise.. Anyway, I dont tink u'll kill ur amp outirite - itll go into protection mode first [ I tink de newer avrs hv tis feature..]
On subs - like I said, if for ur current 'diet' then its fine cos de older ttls dont really emphasize much on audio - dialogue is most important - clear..

D

common misconception.
even if the loudspeaker is capable of reaching say, 30Hz, you must understand that a loudspeaker driver is never intended to sustain that low of a frequency.
it's a fallacy at best, considering that it takes so much movement and a specially designed driver to be able to output that low. special driver in which sense, a subwoofer driver.

a loudspeaker is never (ever) intended to reach that low. while it might play that low, it will have lots of distortion which is usually audible since movies mixes will have bass surges over 100db.
manufacturer specs will show that their products have a flat response, usually close-mic-ed response at 75db. misleading at best since nobody listen to their speakers 30cm away from the baffle.

it's one thing to have a flat response 30cm away from the baffle at 75db.
and another thing altogether to maintain that flat response 4 meters away at the listening position at 100db.

Appreciate your informative and illuminating comments. I admit my shortcomings but my only excuse in not getting a sub is my 'stinginess' in not wanting to spend more on home theater setup. TQ

a good sub will go a long way. as with one you're removing the low frequency from being played by the speakers, allowing the loudspeaker to perform better handling midrange and high frequency.

most people are mislead by the manufacturer specs saying that their speakers will do something like "±2dB from 42 Hz - 22 kHz".
this is what a manufacturer spec-ed "±2dB from 86 Hz - 22 kHz" looks like in real life:


that jagged line doesn't look anything like ±2dB.

Haha,

I dont tink a bunch of squiggly lines is gonna convince a person to act , once in his comfort zone..

D

frankly it's not for him.
there are others which believe that loudspeakers could substitute the need for a sub. or the use of multiple loudspeakers with large drivers will affectively take over the role of a sub in their system.
for stereo listening it won't matter much. because 80db is plenty loud. but for movie playback is a different game.

and even if the loudspeakers is indeed capable of low frequency playback and have no problem reaching 20hz at 120db, there will be issues regarding the timing and overlapping of bass frequencies that will play havoc to the room.


i've pursued this issue previously and my finding is in line with the result from harman.
it's explored quite a bit in their
Subwoofers: Optimum Number
and Locations
by
Todd Welti
Research Acoustician,
Harman International Industries, Inc.

'He' finds it most amusing and intriguing to have 2 very senior hi-fi enthusiasts discussing about "him". To be honest, he was beginning to 'see the light' and was almost persuaded to go out and buy a reasonably priced sub as soon as possible after reading the solid sounding & unbiased comments. Unlike 'frequency responses' etc, the human mind is a very complex organ with a wide ranging and inter-related inputs coupled with an equally bizarre array of output options and responses that totally disregards the 'truth' and facts and selectively favors the alternative path and hence continue to remain in the 'dark'. In the final analysis, Paskal is right - It is not for "him" given the circumstances:-
1. He has opted for larger drivers with lower frequencies in an attempt to reproduce the lows in the system.
2. As he has amassed a lot of speakers through the years (1st speaker was Acoustic Research 18 in 1983!), he is trying to make full use of them to try to replace the need for a sub, which is active, instead of passive.
3. His interest is more in hi-fi than in home theatre, and there lies his priority. He watches movies less than he listens to hi-fi which is located in another room with a different set-up - where 'consistent frequency response' at low volumes can be reproduced for less.
4. Well, he is still 'stingy' when it comes to home theatre as a good sounding subs, even a used model, can increase the cost of the HT set up, what with HD big screen TV's and HDMI AV receivers, etc.
To conclude, He thanks you all for participation in this interesting discussion. He believes that he will be 'haunted & taunted' for a long, long time.

Haha,

I am not unlike u .. veri hard to part my money by 'talk' alone.. keke - so squiggly lines n wat not is not tat easy to sway me.. either..

Like I said - if u like it.. jus enjoy n heck if its not 'rite'..

Oh.. ya, probably de worst 'taunt' would be a real life 'listen' in a well set-up system.. so stay away - if u know wats good for u ..

D

Hi guys, seeking some advise.

I am getting myself an EPSON EH-TW5200 for 3D home theatre and business purposes but still unsure on the wifi adapter & 3D glass.

Would normal wifi adapter works & other chapalang 3D glass works with the projector? Anyone can share some experience?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by awiekupo: Jul 1 2014, 03:27 PM

If is a 3dprojector shouldn't it come with the glasses

sadly, the epson one doesnt come with 3d glass..

Hi,

I dont hv de baby epson but from wat I read in a neighboring countries forum ;

Its a budget model wif no lens shift .. even - maybe tats why it dont come wif its own 3d glasses, here ..
I suggest you read up at AVS on tis.. I tink it should be popular there..

D

i wanna ask, i bought tis psb subseries 125.. my room is kinda small, 11' x 13' like tat.. then if i sit near to the wall, which is where i put my desktop, the bass is kinda overwhelm.. but when i seat at the listening position, which is around the middle of the room, the bass is not kinda strong.. the sub is placed beside my right bookshelf. crossover i put 80hz, speaker size small.. distance around 1m+ to listening position.

move the listening position, don't sit at the middle of the room.
because for an 11x13 room, with 9' ceiling, you're gonna have a huge null at the middle of the room no matter where you move the sub to.

the null is nice nice at the 55hz, causing the response to sound like no omphh, no midbass punch, lacking in where it's mostly needed.

good room ratio won't directly translate to good response at the listening position.

ahh.. kinda hard to move lol.. basically the room is so occupied >< no other solution?

measure the exact dimension of the room. measure the arrangement of the furniture, measure and mark the listening position. draw the current speaker arrangement and position.
and post a photo of the room. it'll help with the suggestion.

Anyone planning to build there own home theater?

Hi Sifus,

Hello all, I'm very new to this HT thing and just started to read slowly thread by thread.

I'm in the midst of finding the correct combination and arrangement for my theater room before further come to the budgeting.
The room size is about 13 x 19 feet (~250 sqft). See the attached photo.

I have this crazy idea to go for 7.2 system + HD projector.
The question is... did I go overkill too much for the decent room size ?

By the way, do anyone have similar room size for comparison ?
Need to learn more from the sifu here.

Thanks in advance.



David