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 Your Home Theater Setup.. v2, Let's share..

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drtai2014
post Jun 24 2014, 12:24 PM

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Just bought a 2nd hand 7.1 channel receiver to handle my dvd collection, mostly old movies which have been downloaded and 'burnt'. In order to overcome the different audio qualities of the dvd's, i have opted for this unconventional speaker set-up (to make full use of the many speakers I have, the number of viewers, the room acoustics, etc). 2 centre speakers below the TV, 2 front and 2 rear speakers to the front channel, 2 speakers each for the rear surround - a total of 10 speakers. And for the setting, instead of Dolby, DTS, etc which had not existed then, I used Neural music, etc for the special effects. I am open to criticisms or even condemnations.
drtai2014
post Jun 24 2014, 06:29 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 24 2014, 04:29 PM)
wow. so many speakers.
does it sound good?
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It all depends on what movies you are watching. That is my HT/AV receiver set up where 'effects' are important. For music only, I use a different amp & speaker combo (direct source / bypass without tone controls).
drtai2014
post Jun 25 2014, 05:24 PM

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QUOTE(dirtrun @ Jun 25 2014, 11:04 AM)
Wanna ask,

1. How u connect em? I mean like for de 2 Ctrs..

2. Neural Music is in ur avr setting??
As far as I know , most of old / er Std Def DVD's only come in stereo [ n sum only mono - I know cos I collect sum old ttls myself ] n if u use Dolby Pro Logic or its kind - it does its job in ctring most of de signals to de ctr [ where most of de dialogue is ] so u stil can get de jist of de movie - not much effects but tats just wat it was back then..
So, is de 'Neural' Music setting any different than DPL?

3. No subs?
Granted .. if in ur catalog of ttls, tis  prbbly would not be needed..
BUT.. wat if u wan to watch sumtin newer??

In the end, wat matters most is tat u like it... it might not be de 'rite' ting to do but wat de heck..

D
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1. I wire the centres together to the receiver centre out. One wire to one centre, another to the other, in the same binding post of the receiver. Instead of bi-amping or bi-wiring,I guess I call it bi-speakering! So long as the receiver output can handle it and both the centres are preferably 8 ohms resistance.

2. Besides 'neural music', the other setting is Neo 6 music. Before I had this receiver (Pioneer VSX 1020), the even older 2nd hand receiver (Marantz SR66) only has Dolby and the sound is mostly concentrated in the centre without much from the front and rear surrounds especially for older movies without surround sound.

3. No subs. My belief is that if the front speakers can go down to about 35 Hz or below, it will be sufficient for the 'lows'. In that way, you save on electricity since all speakers are passive rather than active. Too much vibration is also bad for the walls and your heart!
drtai2014
post Jun 25 2014, 06:12 PM

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QUOTE(ktek @ Jun 25 2014, 05:49 PM)
So its parallel connection, where the ohm is calculate by 1/8 + 1/8 = 2/8 or 1/4

invert the top, u running 4 ohm now. Very high ampere stress to amp.

if want reduce the load, use series connection.
speaker A connect red wire to amp (red terminal), black wire to speaker B red terminal.
then speaker B connect black wire to amp (black terminal)

this become 8+8=16ohm, volume lower but safe

Thats the dolby prologic 1
u can set 3 different mode to prologic 2
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Thanks for enlightening me on the terminology & the difference between parallel and series connections. I prefer parallel connection as I think that my amp can handle loads of 4 ohm and I don't have to increase the volume. I may have to pay the price for my folly later on.
drtai2014
post Jun 27 2014, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 26 2014, 07:41 PM)
common misconception.
even if the loudspeaker is capable of reaching say, 30Hz, you must understand that a loudspeaker driver is never intended to sustain that low of a frequency.
it's a fallacy at best, considering that it takes so much movement and a specially designed driver to be able to output that low. special driver in which sense, a subwoofer driver.

a loudspeaker is never (ever) intended to reach that low. while it might play that low, it will have lots of distortion which is usually audible since movies mixes will have bass surges over 100db.
manufacturer specs will show that their products have a flat response, usually close-mic-ed response at 75db. misleading at best since nobody listen to their speakers 30cm away from the baffle.

it's one thing to have a flat response 30cm away from the baffle at 75db.
and another thing altogether to maintain that flat response 4 meters away at the listening position at 100db.
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Appreciate your informative and illuminating comments. I admit my shortcomings but my only excuse in not getting a sub is my 'stinginess' in not wanting to spend more on home theater setup. TQ
drtai2014
post Jun 27 2014, 08:43 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Jun 27 2014, 07:10 PM)
frankly it's not for him.
there are others which believe that loudspeakers could substitute the need for a sub. or the use of multiple loudspeakers with large drivers will affectively take over the role of a sub in their system.
for stereo listening it won't matter much. because 80db is plenty loud. but for movie playback is a different game.

and even if the loudspeakers is indeed capable of low frequency playback and have no problem reaching 20hz at 120db, there will be issues regarding the timing and overlapping of bass frequencies that will play havoc to the room.
user posted image

i've pursued this issue previously and my finding is in line with the result from harman.
it's explored quite a bit in their
Subwoofers: Optimum Number
and Locations
by
Todd Welti
Research Acoustician,
Harman International Industries, Inc.
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'He' finds it most amusing and intriguing to have 2 very senior hi-fi enthusiasts discussing about "him". To be honest, he was beginning to 'see the light' and was almost persuaded to go out and buy a reasonably priced sub as soon as possible after reading the solid sounding & unbiased comments. Unlike 'frequency responses' etc, the human mind is a very complex organ with a wide ranging and inter-related inputs coupled with an equally bizarre array of output options and responses that totally disregards the 'truth' and facts and selectively favors the alternative path and hence continue to remain in the 'dark'. In the final analysis, Paskal is right - It is not for "him" given the circumstances:-
1. He has opted for larger drivers with lower frequencies in an attempt to reproduce the lows in the system.
2. As he has amassed a lot of speakers through the years (1st speaker was Acoustic Research 18 in 1983!), he is trying to make full use of them to try to replace the need for a sub, which is active, instead of passive.
3. His interest is more in hi-fi than in home theatre, and there lies his priority. He watches movies less than he listens to hi-fi which is located in another room with a different set-up - where 'consistent frequency response' at low volumes can be reproduced for less.
4. Well, he is still 'stingy' when it comes to home theatre as a good sounding subs, even a used model, can increase the cost of the HT set up, what with HD big screen TV's and HDMI AV receivers, etc.
To conclude, He thanks you all for participation in this interesting discussion. He believes that he will be 'haunted & taunted' for a long, long time.

 

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