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 Personal Financial Management V3, It's all about managing your $$$

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deadravel
post Jun 21 2016, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 21 2016, 02:37 PM)
Yup, that's right.
I have my manager having rm30M of NAV, but if really cash it out, that's only rm600k.
Saving money no doubt it will be way slower, but then it is still real cash. My terrace house that I'm staying only cost rm130k when I bought it and now it can easily shout for rm800k but bank only put a value at rm600k. So I can always make my NAV higher by using rm800k as calculations.
*
nice. can I ask how old are you right now? cuz ur NAV is quite large thumbup.gif
130k --> 800k terrace house. I would imagine the house was bought >10years ago?
cybermaster98
post Jun 21 2016, 04:18 PM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 21 2016, 02:37 PM)
I have my manager having rm30M of NAV, but if really cash it out, that's only rm600k.
U clearly have no idea what is NAV.


cybermaster98
post Jun 21 2016, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 21 2016, 01:43 PM)
But from your way of saying, your "asset" is still on paper, right? Not yet cash out.
If you are referring to this, then my NAV is at rm20M which is way more than yours.
U need to learn how to calculate NAV the CORRECT way. Its not just based on rubbish bank valuations of your property and surely isn't some imagined figure.

And if ure really having a NAV of RM20mil, u will surely not be on this forum talking about settling bank loans for a terrace house.

Lets argue with real facts shall we?
deadravel
post Jun 21 2016, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(cybermaster98 @ Jun 21 2016, 04:20 PM)
U need to learn how to calculate NAV the CORRECT way. Its not just based on rubbish bank valuations of your property and surely isn't some imagined figure.

And if ure really having a NAV of RM20mil, u will surely not be on this forum talking about settling bank loans for a terrace house.

Lets argue with real facts shall we?
*
hi cybermaster98, sorry for interruption. i thought NAV is all assets u have - all liabilities u have = NAV
example:
asset=
house1 market value: 1m
car1 market value: 100k
savings: 100k
total asset = 1.2m

liability=
mortgage for house1: 500k
car1 loan: 90k
creditcard loan: 100k
total liabilities: 590k

NAV = asset-liability = 1.2m-690k = 510k (is this correct?)hmm.gif

can u enlighten me the correct calculations of NAV?
aspartame
post Jun 21 2016, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 21 2016, 02:37 PM)
Yup, that's right.
I have my manager having rm30M of NAV, but if really cash it out, that's only rm600k.
Saving money no doubt it will be way slower, but then it is still real cash. My terrace house that I'm staying only cost rm130k when I bought it and now it can easily shout for rm800k but bank only put a value at rm600k. So I can always make my NAV higher by using rm800k as calculations.
*

NAV of 30 mil means you have net 30 million cash if you sell all your properties and settle all your loan. Clearly, what you have is 600k being your NAV. The 30 mil is your total value of properties owned. You owe the bank 29.4 mil. Anyway, hard to believe bank will loan you that much.
cybermaster98
post Jun 21 2016, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(aspartame @ Jun 21 2016, 04:53 PM)
NAV of 30 mil means you have net 30 million cash if you sell all your properties and settle all your loan. Clearly, what you have is 600k being your NAV. The 30 mil is your total value of properties owned. You owe the bank 29.4 mil. Anyway, hard to believe bank will loan you that much.
Exactly! Complete nonsense. He's got to be earning RM5.8 mil a year to be given RM30mil worth of loans.
cybermaster98
post Jun 21 2016, 04:58 PM

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QUOTE(deadravel @ Jun 21 2016, 04:50 PM)
hi cybermaster98, sorry for interruption. i thought NAV is all assets u have - all liabilities u have = NAV
example:
asset=
house1 market value: 1m
car1 market value: 100k
savings: 100k
total asset = 1.2m

liability=
mortgage for house1: 500k
car1 loan: 90k
creditcard loan: 100k
total liabilities: 590k

NAV = asset-liability = 1.2m-690k = 510k (is this correct?)hmm.gif

can u enlighten me the correct calculations of NAV?
Your calculations are correct.

The only differing bit is how you evaluate your property. It should always be based on average actual transacted property sales. I usually have a buffer of 10-15% when I evaluate my property value based on transacted prices.
cybermaster98
post Jun 21 2016, 05:01 PM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 21 2016, 03:17 PM)
<40. As said, NAVs mean nothing as it is just table talk. Yup, bought 10 years back and it is a corner unit.
I can only know once it is cashed out. And for my case, it is only rm1M if I really can cash it out.
Calculated correctly, NAV is one of the best indicators of your overall financial health. doh.gif

And for u to say NAV's mean nothing clearly shows u have very little financial knowledge or even investment in general.

Why don't you ask more questions and learn instead of just vomiting nonsense?
wongmunkeong
post Jun 21 2016, 05:05 PM

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QUOTE(cybermaster98 @ Jun 21 2016, 04:58 PM)
Your calculations are correct.

The only differing bit is how you evaluate your property. It should always be based on average actual transacted property sales. I usually have a buffer of 10-15% when I evaluate my property value based on transacted prices.
*
i'm lagi kiasi - i value my properties based on last bank-lelong reserved price tongue.gif
feels good to value them at "hot prices" though - feel saja lar, not prudent of me laugh.gif
Showtime747
post Jun 21 2016, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(langstrasse @ Jun 20 2016, 10:03 PM)
Folks,

I'm thinking of purchasing my first property. However, I'm wondering about what would be the best combination to obtain the best value for my hard earned money.

My understanding is that :
1. Higher downpayment = lower total interest paid
2. Shorter loan term = lower total interest paid

How do you determine the best combination of downpayment and loan tenure for a given property purchase - can I approach a Financial Planner on this ?

I don't think it would be a good idea to ask bank staff because they have a vested interest to maximize the interest earned on every loan.
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Bro, use flexi loan and you will have a lot of flexibility. Your above 2 concerns will be solved.

1. Higher downpayment ?
Flexi loan allows you to dump your excess cash into the current account to reduce the amount outstanding, thus reducing your interest expense. While the excess cash can still be withdraw out for your own use later (if you can find some investment with good return for example). That is the beauty of flexi loan.

So, take as much loan as possible (90% LTV) with the bank. Then dump in your extra cash into the current account later to reduce interest expense, while still be able to use it when you need money. If you pay higher downpayment, then your cash will no longer be available to you

2. Shorter loan term ?
Again, flexi loan will take care of your concern. Interest is calculated on daily basis based on your balance outstanding. So if you have extra cash, dump everything into the current account. It has the same effect of paying more instalment as a shorter loan term.

So, take loan term as long as possible in flexi loan. Then deposit as much money as possible into the current account. That will save you interest. And you may pay off your loan sooner



By getting flexi loan with as much LTV + as long loan term as possible, it gives you the flexibility to pay lesser interest and at the same time allows you to withdraw the excess money when you need it. And the extra money you paid into your current account will be available for use for a longer period also.

However, flexi loan is of no extra advantage for people who has no extra cash to dump into the current account. For this category of people, there is no difference for them to take conventional fixed loan
velo
post Jun 21 2016, 05:11 PM

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BTW, for the saving portion of NAV, don't you think that we should also take out the EPF/pension fund/insurance cash value etc from calculation too?

To me I consider all those are "non-accessible" until you reach certain age. Should not be reflected in our current NAV. Agree?

Actually I'll also take out the house that I'm currently staying from calculation too. This is the one property that I cannot afford to sell as everyone need a roof to live as well.

This post has been edited by velo: Jun 21 2016, 05:12 PM
aspartame
post Jun 21 2016, 05:12 PM

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QUOTE(wongmunkeong @ Jun 21 2016, 05:05 PM)
i'm lagi kiasi - i value my properties based on last bank-lelong reserved price tongue.gif
feels good to value them at "hot prices" though - feel saja lar, not prudent of me laugh.gif
*
While it is good to be prudent, when it comes to valuation, I believe in a reasonable value to reflect reality and what cybermaste describe seems reasonable. I believe in reality not too much optimism nor pessimism.
wongmunkeong
post Jun 21 2016, 05:15 PM

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QUOTE(velo @ Jun 21 2016, 05:11 PM)
BTW, for the saving portion of NAV, don't you think that we should also take out the EPF/pension fund/insurance cash value etc from calculation too?

To me I consider all those are "non-accessible" until you reach certain age. Should not be reflected in our current NAV. Agree?

Actually I'll also take out the house that I'm currently staying from calculation too. This is the one property that I cannot afford to sell as everyone need a roof to live as well.
*
good PoV

Personally, i keep "2 books" - 1 for the banks in "their language" of net worth
VS
prudent-style, which is like your PoV - ie. don't count primary home, doodads (cars, airplanes, yachts, that 100" 4K wrap-around TV tongue.gif )

Thus, easier to talk "proper data" with right people tongue.gif
velo
post Jun 21 2016, 05:21 PM

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Yea, it all depend what is one purpose of calculating NAV. If only for "syiok sendiri" and own ego, you can add all the junks to it and blow up the figure. smile.gif

But if it is for making big decision like business venture, large investment or decision to retire early, then better to be prudent....
deadravel
post Jun 21 2016, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(cybermaster98 @ Jun 21 2016, 04:58 PM)
Your calculations are correct.

The only differing bit is how you evaluate your property. It should always be based on average actual transacted property sales. I usually have a buffer of 10-15% when I evaluate my property value based on transacted prices.
*
I see I see. thanks for the info.

QUOTE(velo @ Jun 21 2016, 05:21 PM)
Yea, it all depend what is one purpose of calculating NAV. If only for "syiok sendiri" and own ego, you can add all the junks to it and blow up the figure. smile.gif

But if it is for making big decision like business venture, large investment or decision to retire early, then better to be prudent....
*
actually its not for syok sendiri saja imo. how u view ur NAV can effect how u financial planning. sweat.gif
langstrasse
post Jun 22 2016, 06:45 PM

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QUOTE(aspartame @ Jun 21 2016, 01:05 AM)
I assume that whatever returns you can generate from long term stocks investing should be about 5% to 10% in the long run. Your effective loan interest should be about 5%. However, paying off loan means guaranteed return of 5%. Investing in stocks should get higher return but not guaranteed. That is why I say invest some in stocks and pay off loan with some excess cash. You really should concentrate on your working income. Whether you invest or pay off should not be of much difference. Just my humble opinion.
*
Makes sense - increase income and pay off loan in parallel. I need to look at worked examples on this to know more.
QUOTE(j.passing.by @ Jun 21 2016, 03:08 AM)
You don't really need a financial planner when common sense applies.

Higher downpayment and shorter loan tenure = less interest paid is true.

We take as much loan as we needed to - not more, not less, just adequate; just as we buy something we truly need, we buy enough and not frivolously more than necessary.

First, think what you need to bridge the gap between owning the house and what you have in hand. This gap is the amount you need to borrow from the bank.

Then think how much you can comfortably afford to pay every month back to the bank.

(One may do a bit of projection into the next few years like salary increment or job promotion, and have slightly more added into the installment amount, and this means a tighter monthly budget till the increment or promotion.)

You then approach the bank with the loan amount you need to borrow, and the installment you could afford and like to pay every month. With these 2 figures, the bank can work out the loan tenure; and you won't be distracted by any offers for a bigger loan or longer tenure or what special promotion they have.

=================

If we could only afford to buy with the most minimal downpayment and the longest tenure available, maybe we should think again whether we can really afford the house and whether we should wait till there are more savings and continue looking for the right house at the right price.

So what is the right house at the right price? According to some financial rule of thumb, it is about 2.5 times the annual salary; monthly installment of not more than 36% of your gross monthly income, and at least 20% as downpayment. 

http://money.cnn.com/pf/money-essentials-home-buying/

Can these rules of thumb apply to Malaysia? Maybe, maybe not, or maybe they should be adjusted a bit like 3 to 3.5 times the annual salary, monthly installment about 30-40% of net salary, and 15-25% as downpayment. The adjustments should not be too far off the rules of thumb.

Good luck, and happy house hunting.
*
Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain and elaborate - it does involve common sense for the most part.
Yes the rules of thumb would be helpful but would need to be adapted to the Malaysian context. Interestingly, I believe that many of my peers living in KL are definitely not within the range shown in those rules of thumb (e.g. 2.5 times annual salary).

QUOTE(cybermaster98 @ Jun 21 2016, 09:30 AM)
I wouldn't call that a smart move. You are still with the old mindset of paying off home loans fast. But it was valid back then cuz home loan rates were about 7-8% unlike the current 4%+.

What's the point of having a fully paid up house? Your value is stuck on the house and u cant touch it unless you sell/refinance. Its just a feel good feeling that you have a fully paid up home.

If u were a savy investor, u would know how to utilise loans to grow your money and your NAV faster. I would rather have 4 properties on loan (with high capital appreciation) vs 2 fully paid up properties.

We should focus on growing our money not saving. Saving is a very slow process towards financial freedom. Learn to diversify, invest and grow your NAV. You can achieve a much faster growth rate than just saving.

I grew my NAV by RM1.8mil within 9 years using this method.
*
Interesting point of view, I must admit I'm quite risk averse and have this dying need to be free of mortgage etc. Adding to that is the fact that I work in a very volatile and cyclical industry and cannot afford to take on too many loan commitments at a given time.

Your safety net of 18 months is very wise indeed, I'll keep that in mind. I believe this must be a very rare thing amongst Malaysians.
QUOTE(Showtime747 @ Jun 21 2016, 05:10 PM)
Bro, use flexi loan and you will have a lot of flexibility. Your above 2 concerns will be solved.

1. Higher downpayment ?
Flexi loan allows you to dump your excess cash into the current account to reduce the amount outstanding, thus reducing your interest expense. While the excess cash can still be withdraw out for your own use later (if you can find some investment with good return for example). That is the beauty of flexi loan.

So, take as much loan as possible (90% LTV) with the bank. Then dump in your extra cash into the current account later to reduce interest expense, while still be able to use it when you need money. If you pay higher downpayment, then your cash will no longer be available to you

2. Shorter loan term ?
Again, flexi loan will take care of your concern. Interest is calculated on daily basis based on your balance outstanding. So if you have extra cash, dump everything into the current account. It has the same effect of paying more instalment as a shorter loan term.

So, take loan term as long as possible in flexi loan. Then deposit as much money as possible into the current account. That will save you interest. And you may pay off your loan sooner
By getting flexi loan with as much LTV + as long loan term as possible, it gives you the flexibility to pay lesser interest and at the same time allows you to withdraw the excess money when you need it. And the extra money you paid into your current account will be available for use for a longer period also.

However, flexi loan is of no extra advantage for people who has no extra cash to dump into the current account. For this category of people, there is no difference for them to take conventional fixed loan
*
Thanks, I guess I didn't really understand how flexi loans worked.
I found an overview explanation here for others:
https://loanstreet.com.my/learning-centre/f...ty-loan-options

But I still have an ultra newbie question:
Assuming you have 300k cash and your home transaction price is 450k, is it still better to pay 10% downpayment (45k) and take a home loan for 405k for 30 years (and park the remaining cash in the linked current account to reduce the interest payment) ?
Showtime747
post Jun 22 2016, 11:17 PM

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QUOTE(langstrasse @ Jun 22 2016, 06:45 PM)

But I still have an ultra newbie question:
Assuming you have 300k cash and your home transaction price is 450k, is it still better to pay 10% downpayment (45k) and take a home loan for 405k for 30 years (and park the remaining cash in the linked current account to reduce the interest payment) ?
*
Yes.

With flexi-loan, you take 405k loan at 30 years. When the accounts are in operation, then park your remaining 255k inside the current account. Your interest calculation is effectively on principal of 150k, not 405k.

If you take conventional loan, you have to pay interest on 405k irregardless. The 255k is your separate fund which you have to think how to make good return on it

Another way of viewing the flexi-loan is a "low cost reducing-balance overdraft" (where the overdraft facility is reduced by the monthly instalment amount). The interest rate is housing loan rate (4.xx%) compare to overdraft interest rate of 7.xx-8.xx%. The fund is ready for you to jump on good investment opportunity at anytime. If you cannot find a good opportunity, you are still paying less interest expense as your balance principal is already reduced.

Compare to conventional loan which you take high LTV, you have to pay interest on a full loan, while feel the pressure to look for investment opportunity to cover the interest expense which runs on daily basis
cybermaster98
post Jun 23 2016, 12:21 AM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 22 2016, 11:10 PM)
Simple way is pay 10%, take the longest tenure and save money in another account. Then reduce principle once every 6-12 months with that money.
Remember, once you own a house, you need to serve loan and other bills.
Now I can live without any income for 5 years as I have no loan at all, following old timer's mindset way of settling loans.
Yes debt free but with a very low NAV because you have not learnt/refuse to learn how to take advantage of loans to generate more income/wealth.

You may live without income for 5 years because u have no debt but a savvy investor can fully retire much earlier than you with X amount of loans because his other investments are generating far more ROI than the interest he is paying for his loans. brows.gif
cybermaster98
post Jun 23 2016, 03:38 AM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 23 2016, 12:47 AM)
That if he is really making money from his investments. What if not? Or you can 100% sure any investment in this world sure make money?
Are u 100% sure that when u step out of your home everyday that u will come home alive? No right? But u still leave your home every morning rite? doh.gif

Same logic!

Learn not to run from risk but learn how to evaluate probability, impacts and then learn how to mitigate risk. Also learn how to diversify investments to distribute risks and reduce impacts and increase potential gain.

You have a lot to learn my friend.
cybermaster98
post Jun 23 2016, 08:34 AM

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QUOTE(kengyan @ Jun 23 2016, 08:27 AM)
So you are out of idea and trying to relate life = money doh.gif
Investment are nothing more than gambling, as you are putting money and giving a hope that it will make more than what put in.
Nope I don't need 'ideas' to get my point across. Facts are sufficient. You clearly didn't get what I was trying to say. Nobody said life=money. You made that equation yourself.

We're talking about risk here and everything we do is a risk but we still go ahead and do it because we have evaluated the probability and impact of that particular risk and have adopted mitigation measures to reduce or eliminate that risk.

Its the same with investments. Nothing is guaranteed but we don't and should never sit back expecting the worst and therefore adopt the 'money under the pillow' mentality.

Investment is NOT gambling. Are you trying to say a savvy investor is also a gambler similar to those at Genting? Come on. You can't be that naïve. doh.gif

'Investing' without proper risk evaluation and mitigation IS gambling. But smart investors never gamble with their investments neither do they 'hope' their investments pay off. That's what a gambler does. Learn the difference.

This post has been edited by cybermaster98: Jun 23 2016, 08:38 AM

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