yeah i think that is the think need to bear. for city drive even i tried with saga fl at kl, getting 10 km l . Tat is why i pushed back to let my parent to drive.  highway 13 kml saga aso.

do u mind i ask what makes u change from japanese car to local ?

As Sanadi has mentioned above.

Going from Viva to Preve Turbo, you will be getting a very powerful car. The difference in acceleration power will be tremendous. The Almera although more powerful than Viva, feels underpowered when you compare it with Preve Turbo. The handling, dynamics and stability in moderate to high speed on the highways are definitely better than Almera. Moer safety too. Reliability is anyone's guess at the moment but the Almera should be more reliable with the engine, and slightly quieter ride in comparison to the Turbo engine in the Preve Turbo.

Fuel consumption, surely you will take a hit since you are driving Viva which is supposed to be one of the most fuel efficient vehicle. In highway drive there wont' be much difference in FC between Preve Turbo and other 1.5 or 1.6 litre vehicles but in crawling traffic jams the FC will be bad. You will see the fuel meter go down very quickly if the vehicle is stuck in crawling jams. IF FC is important to you, try not to use a road that has crawling traffic jams for long periods. In highway cruising the FC is quite decent and not bad. The Almera may have a slight edge in registering better FC in traffic jam situations than the Preve Turbo.

Looking at your priorities I believe the Preve Turbo is a better choice than the Almera. Only FC may be a consideration to you. In the end, just go test drive and decide yourself.

Just to try Proton. Preve is the first Proton in my family. We were a Honda only previously. For the price, what you get from the Preve is good. The quality I got from the factory is good.

What Proton really lack is refinement (the little things such as those ugly chrome screws against the dark plastics. Should've used matte black screws).

Also the quality of after sales service is not very good. They tried to sell me X1R, Magnetrap etc, things the car doesn't need. They also tried to change things before scheduled, such as replace radiator coolant every 10K km. The engineer who wrote the manual suggested every 30K km. I complained and now the SC will review the service schedule in the manual with me before starting work.

When people say Proton is a piece of shit, Toyota & Honda better, I'd say go ahead then. Buy a Honda & Toyota. Many times those who say that don't know what they are saying and don't know what they've gotten themselves into. My family have been driving Hondas since the 1990s up to the iVTEC era. There are pros & cons but Proton is not really that bad, except for the after sales & service. *So much* work need to be done in that area.

i never own non national car. so now thinking of upgrade but see the specs on paper (my budget of 70k) . i don see why spend so much where same specs can get with a myvi (dual air bag abs ba ).

for sc, yeah they are dissappointed ones.

at this point of time, i jus wan to get a car that has protection. at least minimal impact to kid in case of accident if proton are giving really good protection with the price.

wat i heard is this car has really solid frame. so in minimal accident, passenger are intact. keep aside huge impact accident.

i had viva for 6 years no issues. saga fl 3 years no issues.

Why not join PREVOC FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/preveownersclub/

There are quite a bit of pics of Preve involved in accidents. Yes the safety shell in the Preve is quite tough. If safety is your main concern (as was mine), get the CFE version. You get 4 airbags and more importantly ESC (Electronic Stability Control).

You also get a few goodies in the FB, such as enabling the Preve DRL. Yes *proper* DRL. Bright when the engine is on. Dims when you turn on the position lights. All just by connecting 1 wire labelled "DRL" on the circuit board.

Proton, you sure are naughty. 

on the DRL, both preve and suprimas s using the same headlamp. the only thing missing from preve is 1 fukken wire that should be tapped to enabled the DRL.. i cannot brain why proton did this... 

is this applicable to all variants of Preve or just the CFE's version? Is there any after-market cables that can be tapped to enable the DRL?   

all model.. but mind you.. tapping the jumper would void the warranty. and summore disassemble and assemble it also voiding the warranty, and required some hell of a skill and luck. if bad luck, there will be condense in the headlamp. a new unit of headlamp is rm750 per unit yo...

join prevoc.. look for Drex Chan. u r good to go..

Any problem with it so far? Does it involve wire tapping or alteration?

if not mistaken, wire tapping is a must. tampering is different thing... might need to ask Drex Chan himself for confirmation. ive seen some of the members there already DRL-ing their preve. looks exactly the same like the one on suprima. even the dimmed function works well..

Look for this discussion in Prevoc FB

DIY? 

DIY? 

Some have DIY. Waiting from them to post tutorials. Or you could visit Drex Chan's  shop and pay him to do it for you.

if u trust ur skill of disassembling and assembling the bumper and the headlamp, and tapping the right wire on the right jumper, why not?!? 

By the way, I forgot to mention the handle of the Saga BLM is of even lower quality than the Preve. When I was at the service centre previously, two owners of the Saga BLM reported some defect on the handle, difficult to open or something. I think it is quite fragile too, and if too much force is used on the handle it may break.

Why not join PREVOC FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/preveownersclub/

There are quite a bit of pics of Preve involved in accidents. Yes the safety shell in the Preve is quite tough. If safety is your main concern (as was mine), get the CFE version. You get 4 airbags and more importantly ESC (Electronic Stability Control).

You also get a few goodies in the FB, such as enabling the Preve DRL. Yes *proper* DRL. Bright when the engine is on. Dims when you turn on the position lights. All just by connecting 1 wire labelled "DRL" on the circuit board.

Proton, you sure are naughty. 

found it in fb butbotd a closed group. clicked join but no reaction.