I went to a hobby shop, there was a dude there who are pretty knowledgeable about paints and stuff. sounded very passionate. He even entered GBWC multiple times. He takes commission works but I'm not sure if he still has anytime for more.

You can look him up at PAC Kelvin Ong. He's a manager at Plamo Art Center.

Hello, all gunpla enthusiasts, im currently learning how to prime my kits, and boy how horrible it looked on my first try... Thank god i tried it on a spare runner first. When i prime, the finished job is very grainy and rough. What am i doing wrong and how to fix this? Using bosny gray primer btw

1. Those can last for decades if you treat it properly such as remove the air from the tank after you done using it and don't overheat the compressor.

3. Yes lacquer thinner can be used with Acrylic paint but big no no with enamel paint since that will make the paint clump together and very hard to remove.

4. Most airbrush don't really have O-ring nowdays and when they do have one, it inside the body which is hard to reach. Yes that video is valid.

5. Just put in a drawer just to make sure so the smell would be minimize plus avoid other people pick it up and drink it!

6. Certainly preferably P95 if you can get one since you never know what kind of chemical each brand use.

8. Those just for replacement since each AB is set since it mainly the needle that determine the spray diameter.

9. There no need to buy extra, unlike spray can that can only last for 2-3 kit at most, those can last twice as much if you properly mix it.

Put up some pictures so people can assess the damage.

Just sharing..
Imagine if every single drop of paint is not wasted and all goes to your models..



I wonder if someone gonna bring this to malaysia..

Hi,

Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

1. Great, will get that model then

2. I will keep note of that. Just another question. Can I premix the Mr Surfacer and keep e.g mix like 60ml in a bottle and use when I prime?

3. I will give it a test with the lacquer thinners and see if it affects the airbrush.

4. Will be getting the P95 filters just to be safe. How often do I need to change the filters? How about the organic filters? Do I change them at the same rate as the P95 filters?

5. Had no idea that airbrushing paint last that much longer. Whenever I see video, it seems like they use quite a bit of it.

Thank you again

2. That also a big no no since it will reduce their lifespan significantly as they dried up faster and make it harder to save the paint since the only way to revive dry paint is adding thinner so adding more thinner on premix paint make it too thin for painting use.

4. It really depend how frequently you use them. 3M rated their filter to last for 5 years but usual rule of thumb is if you smell the paint even if the mask is seal, it time to replace them.

5. It because you can control the output to minimize overspray and also thinning paint ratio also play a role as the more thinner your paint, the more paint you would use to paint a part.

Hi,

Thanks again for replying.

1. I will prepare only the needed amount then. Better take the time to prepare than to ruin it.

2. I'll keep that rule of thimb in mind. I'm getting a few extra filters just in case.

3. Now I'm kinda concerned about the warranty/repair of the aircompressor from Taobao. I'm thinking of getting either this or this instead.

4. For now I'll be using those Taobao Airbrush first, but when I'm going to upgrade my AB into a better one, which should I get?

Thank you again

For those that want a quick and easy way to spray matt coat for your kits

Yeah it better to buy from local source instead since it easier to send them for repair. As for airbrush, it really not that much difference between china made ones. Even the branded ones is not much better compare to their price. What is important is do not skip cleaning since that will the airbrush last.

Just make sure to be careful with the needle since that what make the spray consistent and bending the tip would increase the radius plus increase the splatter which would not be idle when you want to do some detail spraying where the branded one shines in but for most people they won't use them to that level.

Even the one i currently using, the Tamiya Spray Work HG Trigger is mainly because of the trigger lever instead the usual thumb button that most airbrush have and China made AB triggers ones are few and far between or people don't even stock them.

most AB still have small rings around the tip cover to provide better air sealing. if not, will leak air from the tip covers.

for mask better get dust + vapor filter like this:



Ace got sell a grey version. Can replace the filters. I suggest wearing it even when you are sanding. An easy way to tell the mask fits properly is spray perfume on hand and move it around, if you still can smell the perfume means the mask are properly worn and there are air leaks. For Asians M & S size are better. if you wear glass try buy the more compact design.

On top of that i would recommend adding a safety glass to protect your eyes/glasses from paint sprays. If you wear glasses, Daiso got sell 1 type softer plastic type that fits most glass weearers.

For leftovers if you felt the can is leaking i suggest put it in a ziplock bag & squeeze out the air. it also helps reduce the evaporation.

for the needle i'm not sure if the needle fits all design from most brands or every brand has unique length/thickness?

For the paint, i think mixing is 1 thing, too thick it can't exit the Airbrush properly, too thin you get watery semi transparent results, so the key to conserve paint is to control the paint flow, if you go full open you will still waste alot of paint. Canned ones is more suitable for big areas, when used on small parts, i think around 50% of the paint gets wasted. also you must wear a mask when using cans since their pressure & flow are high, and when wind blows it can blow back towards you. If you have a Spray Booth maybe not a problem. I usually use cans for Priming & 1st coat of white. rm16.90 per can, 1 can can cover around 1 RE/100 kit since they will be Airbrush on with another coat later, just make sure sand off rough surface. saves alot of time washing airbrush especially if you just using it for few parts.

This post has been edited by advocado: Jul 11 2017, 10:28 AM

you can premix. but make sure the cap is really tight, if there's paint/residue on the top of the cover it will reduce the tightness of the cap, and probably end up with a stucked cap. for stuck cap, you can use a thin metal nail file to pry loose from the bottom, then you can open the caps easily. happens even on brand new bottles as when they ship they get toppled and paint end up on the caps.

after you are done, put it in a ziplock bag, those cheap Daiso bag ain't exactly airtight. will leak air slowly, and squeez out the air in the bag before you zip it. use Glad if you can afford.

change filter when you feel the air flow is not good, or if you find the filter dirty. you need to open up the filters to check the inner filter.

Airbrush depends how you use it. the further your distance the more wastage, so depends what finishing you want. you can control the paint flow with airbrush.

Those Mr.Hobby Spray Cans are Super Expensive! Flat results aren't that good easily overspray and smudges. have to check the weather before spraying.

i use Sparmax 0.3D, same as Tamiya model. bought less than rm200 from hobbysearch last time.

cheap China brands i use 2 times the trigger broke already. can't replace/repair since the body is 1 piece.

the needle & nozzle not that expensive. Nozzle cost more, needle around rm30.

i suggest when cleaning don't remove the nozzle but remove the needle & keep it in storage until next use. because thinner no matter how pure will still stick causing the needle to get stuck. if you plan to wait until brush is fully dry then reassemble might as well do it next time you use.

This post has been edited by advocado: Jul 11 2017, 10:40 AM

Anyone else find White hard to use on both Brush & Airbrush?

They just don't get on well, i'm using Mr Hobby Flat White Acrylic. on Brush they just end up smudgy, can't get even surface even properly thinned, too thin and it can't even color slightly yellowed white.

On Airbrush, have difficulty getting flow on .3mm. It just doesn't come out much unless i thin it more, which result in too thin. had to set the pressure to 20psi as lower psi the flow hard to come out.

Anyway just a real bitch for whites. even when color comes out i can't get it thick coat enough to cover even very superficial scratches (from sand paper) without going too thick.

I have Gaia notes white though, haven't tested it.

White was my 2nd color that I hand painted. I was using vallejo flat white and boy... I think I did over 10 coats to the finish that I'm satisfied with.

i find the best time is noon...super hot....hhahhaa

but the can usually need 2 for a 1/100 kit, if you want it real matte, and alot of wastage coz you can't spray close will get smudge.

so Airbrush is much better.

imagine 1 small can cost rm30 (or more), just to top coat will cost you rm60. compared Airbrush is rm10 per bottle which can be used on 2 models at least.

also those that use Airbrush with compressed air cans, i salute you.

i know....some my friends still use spray can brush bcos cant afford or lazy to buy air brush and compressor.
Myself personally would love to invest but dont have the time and money

white really a bitch to paint.

just want to touch up the seam lines i filled, no way i can do it, with brush or with airbrush.