Hi all
dumb question but is mr mark softer meant for sticker or dry transfers decals only ? I applied some on my mg epyon stickers but cant see any after effects.

how many MG kit can i cover using Mr Superclear (Grey can)..

That only for waterslide decals as it meant to slowly melt the decal to the plastic so it stick better. Sticker is too thick for that and dry transfer don't need it as it transfer decal from plastic backing.

Depend on how much layer you spray, it can be between 2 or 4 kits.

This post has been edited by Khai62: Nov 4 2014, 03:01 PM

Thanks for the feedback.. its really hard to gauge the content, since the can is so light even new n sealed.
Im currently using Mr Super Clear 170ml grey can.. at least need to be ready to buy a new can when im done with 2 kits with same can,
would be troublesome if topcoat finish halfway during coating..

Hi all,been doing some ab late and I notice some issue I would like to clarify with all sifus here.

Usually I paint the inner part with this step without leaving each color coat for few hours:
Mr.hobby black primer->gainotes real color iron grey-> top coat with clear black.

First issue is the primer stat gloss effect but when I spary on my Kits the result is flat black.could this be I am just spraying thin coat or due to mix ratio of thinner?
Second issue is that the paint is still easily scratch off even I follow all the steps above.what went wrong?could it be I did not wash my kits with industry cleaner prior to painting or becaue I did not leave some time for the paint to cure between each color coat?
Hopes all sifus here can help me out.thx.

A few things, think you need to give some sanding on the parts. Normal step (IMHO) would be like this:- Sand- prime -wetsand (for glossy effect) - spray black - gloss coat/ compound - wetsand (optional) again -then clear coat .

Clear black is not a top coat but color.

Mix ratio - should be milk consistency

Yes, curing time plays a role. It could be also that industrial cleaner not properly removed.

By sand you mena sand the whole parts?cause usually I just sand the nub.and how long usually to leave the paint to cure beofre apply another later for lacquer paint Ya?

Yes. Sanding results in tiny spaces that gives the paint something to "bite" on. Since primer is something for paint to "bite" on also, the bond will be stronger. If airbrush, normally leave a day i guess after priming? Shouldn't spray all your paints in one go....its like you said, the paint won't have time to cure.

Hey guys. I am new to the whole Gundam model thing. Recently went to Tokyo and came back with three MG models.

I did some reading and found some info regarding side cutters. Apparently Tamiya and Xuron do quite nicely.

Does anyine have any idea where I can get a pair of Xuron side cutters?

Also. I am unfamiliar with the concept of Gundam painting. Could someone please shed some light on the subject for me?

Greatly appreciate any help you guys can provide.

Hi guys,
As the RG grade gundams panel lines are so tiny & swallow, will the priming + paint will make the lines are not visible for panel line wash after painting?

Which primer is recommended? I have no airbrush, spray can type of primer is preferred. I will use spray can for the colors too.

Thanks!

I have very little experience with spray cans but it possible that they can hide the panel lines since those tend to spray very thickly.

Hi Khai,
What if I spray with extra caution, not to spray too thick. Usually AB don't have such issue?
Thanks!

It can be tricky to control the spray cans since it hard to guess how much pressure to push that spray unless you have something like this:


Airbrush don't really have an issue since you can fine tune the spray and can adjust restriction on how much the paint coming out of the nozzle.

As for the Primer question, other than the expensive hobby grade spray can like Tamiya ones, your next best bet is either Anchors or Krylon.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Maybe can look into the AB option then.

Helllloo guys. I am new to the whole Military mockit model thing. Recently went to Shimbashi plamodel and came back with some tamiya military model(kawanishi n1k1 ja shiden type 11,m4a1sherman tank,prince of wales)

I would like to know where can i get tamiya paint?i lived in ipoh?any suggestion where can i find?

itching to start my new hobby

Well you can try Neo Plamo which at Tambun:
https://www.facebook.com/neoplamo
but Tamiya Arylic paint can be hard to find locally

Guys? No one can tell where to buy Xuron side cutter?

I not aware of that brand but personally any plastic side cutter will do since you will remove the nub by sanding or art knife anyway.

This post has been edited by Khai62: Jan 5 2015, 01:07 AM

As mentioned before, lacquer paint will cause the ABS plastic to brittle. In that case, Tamiya Primer Surfacer spray can is lacquer based, then how shall we prime the gunpla ABS part?

OK if acrylic based primer is suggested to get on ABS plastic, however, how shall we overcome the situation stated in the link? Lacquer/enamel is better to keep away to be on top of acrylic.

Next about top coating, currently I am using Mr. Super Clear Flat (which I supposed is Acrylic/solvent type based on Google). As suggested to lay different paint type for base coat/gloss top coat/panel line wash/flat top coat, how should we utilize the 3 different paint type?

Thanks!

That device is called Can Gun. I have one and it makes life a little easier to spray paint. When i bought it its price was RM9.90. Recently i saw it its like RM 15? The new version can fit more can types cost RM25!!