If a plastic model required filler, what kind of filler is suitable?

for major filling, i used the putty found in hardstore (the one that you mix two clays together), then finish it with hobby grade putty like tamiya or MR products for easier sanding.

it is also best to let it cure for more than a day since most of them do shrink

Thanks.....

When doing panel lining, is it OK to use brown panel line color for the colored surface, instead of black? Currently all my models are using gray for white surface, and black for colored surface. In colors like red and yellow, the black panel lining is like a WOW contrast. Replacing black panel lining to brown, to all color surface (including blue, dark blue), would it be better? Any sample to show by sifus?

So far I only have black panel line pen because no time go buy other colours and no time to build as well. But my opinion is,
-grey panel line for white plastic surface or any place you don't want the panel line look too thick or obvious
-black can use on any colour surface but not suitable for dark colour surface(because you can barely see it) or white surface(thick feel)
-brown is for dark surface so you can see the panel line clearer than using black panel line, and it is a good colour for camouflage build or weathering kit.
It is worth to try and see whether it suit your taste or not.

This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: Dec 26 2013, 05:47 PM

Haha, thanks for your reply bro. I was thinking to replace all black panel lining into brown actually, to lessen the contrast.

Try use Real Touch Marker

I love the effect of paneling

As long as it suit your taste, no harm to change.

Hi

I'm currently working on a tamiya laferrari 1/24 model kit. Have a few questions I would like to ask some sifus/experts here...please advice because I'm kind of new to modeling and this is my first time building model kits...

1. Do I have to remove the parts from the sprues before painting? Or paint them while they're still attached?

2. Do I need to use primer on the small parts/the interior parts? Or just the car body?

3. What is the correct way to use enamel paint? Do I have to dip the brush into thinner then the enamel before painting?

4. Is it necessary to use acrylic paint? Can I just use lacquer and enamel paint? Because they're the only options I have now...

All my tools/paint/polish are from tamiya. I would really appreciate any feedback or advice...thanks.

anybody got an extra bottle of mr color no58 orange yellow?

cant seem to mix to get the correct color..

i'll buy from you even half a bottle

can call me O1722712OO

thx

This post has been edited by -hafiz-: Dec 27 2013, 02:32 PM

Hi, hope these little tips from a noob like me can help you

1. Lazy people don't remove sprues, but I insist to remove because after painting and you remove them from the runner, you will see unpainted part on sprues, what lazy people do is hand paint it afterward which make the result not good because of uneven colour texture. What you need to do is cut the part from runner and clean the sprues by sanding with fine grit sandpaper, then wash the part and let it dry before paint.

2. Primer use adhesive and also cover the original colour so you can get even colour texture over the model. Parts that too small you may skip if you do hand painting.

3. Buy a paint tray and pour your paint and mix with enamel hobby thinner, just do like what you learnt from drawing class.

4. Depends you want handbrush or airbrush, hand brush use enamel is the best, acrylic and lacquer are more suitable for airbrush. Lacquer is the strongest paint, strongest smell and also most harmful so usually people use acrylic paint for airbrush.

Cheers

^ added abit on that

1. It ok to paint small part that still on sprues since it was easier to handle.

4. For handbrushing better use Enamel or Acrylic. Lacquer in my experience is only good for Airbrush since it dry fast than the other two.

For more you can refer to this video playlist for tips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTjm6L8P9uc...0C23B14D4BD500A

Hi, thanks so much for the advice. That's all I need to know to get started. though I still have one more question. You said its fine to use primer on small parts, but not the ones that are 'too small'. May I know what you mean by that? Does this mean I should use primer on the seats and engines but skip the smaller parts like the steering and padels? Can you give me some examples?

Also, do I need to sand every single part/sprue?

Hi, thanks for the advice. The lacquer paint I have is in spray can form, not airbrush...or is it the same thing?

I will look at the videos later as my internet speed is abit slow right now...thanks anyway

Spray cans can as well just spray lightly or quickly since spray cans paint tend to be very thick if spray for too long.

Well I don't have car models so I don't know the actual size. But I think you no need to prime small part with tiny details on it because they might be cover up after priming and few layers of paint.


Yea, you are correct. I long time no touch model kits forgot those tiny parts really not easy to handle during painting.
Lacquer can be use for handpaint but dry too fast even with retarder and really thick which require more thinner in the end the plastic become brittle due long contact with thinner. I have ruined a kit with lacquer handbrush, now not dare do that again for pro modeler I think no problem la. But since enamel paint is quite good for handbrush and the texture was great, I think use enamel paint is a better choice.

Little question.
I have a extra finish kit that i have yet to start.
Understand that the nub mark will be visible.
Is there a video guide on how to cut it so it will be less visible?
Or any other preparation to make it less visible?

Here's one:

My experience for car model, for those teenee tiny part at the engine, which is not very exposed or for exhibit, you can just paint it or spray it (can spray) from the tray, then hand detail it, then only cut it out and glu it to the appropriate place.
As for big portion like the body, it is always better to cut it, extra fine sand paper it, wash, dry then only spray paint it. Hand brush on large surface usually not so nice, unless you mix the paint well (paint + solvent).
Also, when using spray can, always group parts of the same colour then spray it togather (save paint). and DON'T hurry, spray it thin layer, let it dry, then another thin layer, dry it and again... till you get the colour out.
Can spray from hardware store usually have larger grain size, so must spray it bit by bit, layer by layer, don't rush.

anyway to re-thaw paint that went hard like rock? i got a lot of paint bottle that becomes top part thinner lower part paint color...