Your call.....muahahaha......

Forget about the G220 la....DAS 6 is better......

Sorry bro, I haven't clocked anough time with a DA to have any firm idea which pads are better and, no, they're not the same. I also haven't got any menz or sonus pads. But with my Bosch ROB, I kinda like the 3M green, sonax and LC Hydro (if I'm not mistaken it's similar to constant pressure pads) pads. But I know one thing though, the 5" ~ 5.5" (150mm ~ 160mm) feels better. Maybe GRexer or somebody else can help out.

Very....errr...shiny....

I don't think there's any PERMANENT solution in preventing yellowing...it is plastic after all. What you can do is to prevent the plastic to decay PREMATURELY. You can do this by regular washing/cleaning and puting on a layer of temporary protection over it. This can be in the form of sealant (like the one mav3rick posted), wax, coating, protective film, etc. Protective films are also a form of plastic and they would also turn yellow after some time, even the 3M VentureShield. But at least you can just replace the film instead of the headlamps.

Middle of the week...no point wasting my annual leave....I think I'm good.

Normally, if there's a holiday coming, I'd take extra leave for one or two days so that I'd have longer weekends to balik kampung. So, normally, if there's a holiday I won't be around. But since Labour Day is right smack in the middle of the week, and the kids have school before and after, if take holiday also just stay at home...so no point la. Meaning....I'll be around and, if nothing comes up, I should be able to join in.....

Me? Thats nothing la...the question is...will you???

Damn...and here I am thinking that we were talking about the 'machine try-out' session......aren't we?

Exactly......

Unless there's a last minute planning by THE Family Minister, shouldn't be any problem.
No problem with the Megs. If you have plan to come anywhere near Shah Alam, just give me a howler.

pokok or porch.....now I'm confused.....

Anywhere would do....but Shah Alam would be GREAT....hahahah.....

I have. Performance is about the same but RainX last longer....much longer...

mmmm...then I should say that RainX last 50% longer than Waxco....or maybe longer...
Ok...I change my mind. My experience in using Waxco...after one heavy rain shower and one round using the wiper, no more flying water beads. RainX can do much much better and can last much much longer.....

Two different beast. The Bosch doesn't have enough torque as compare to the Makita and it would bog (slow) down a little under pressure. It's also noisier. But, saying that, if you're just planning to DIY your own car the Bosch is far better than those cheapo China made ones....

Very very nice...see....you don't have to be a pro to do coating nowadays...hehehe. But....errr...come back after around 3 ~ 4 months. That's normally the threshold to gauge the performance of a coating.

You wanna come? Of course you can. But be prepare to be poison....HAHAHAHA.....

Should be fine....or...should I say...better if you do. That stuff don't last too long.....

Nice job. Now come the difficult part.....MAINTENANCE.
Don't worry too much about the scratches....those are actually the easier (relatively) part. Learn how to maintain and protect the paintwork and how to MINIMIZE swirls during washing, drying, etc. That is where the real hard work is. I mean...you don't really want to polish your car every month do you....

Wahh....so fast got see pin holes already ah? Paint must be very thin already. 'Customary' wax job by dealer/agent....? Remind me to bring over the PTG next time around when we meet....maybe during the 'machine' session....

Something like this:

http://www.spieshecker.co.uk/spieshecker/u...pinholes_dl.jpg

I got those on my waja bonnet already....they came out after a couple of rounds of sanding (and quite a few rounds of polishings) since I do most of my 'live tests' on my waja bonnet.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 8 2013, 10:35 AM

Check out 'orange peel'. To remove that and flatten the paint - more gloss and depth.

The pictures show 'worse case'. That portion *might* possibly be thinner than the rest. We'll check it out later and see.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 8 2013, 11:32 AM

Major porn warning.........!!!!!

Yes, of course. For starter, better use polishes dedicated for plastic la. You're definitely more OCD than me man. I tried it once before and gave up and just do cincai2 after half way...polishing in between those letters and numbers are a PITA. Need a Dremel......

You should be fine with Meguiars....or other well established brands like 3M, Duragloss, Mothers, etc. Or if you're on a budget you can start with Soft99.

Instead of splitting into days, why not do (and complete) one or two panels at a time...or divide the car into sections like, front, mid, roof and back, so you can stop any time you want. I normally do that unless I have the whole weekends to myself. But, most of the time, it'll be months before I'd start the other panels/sections....hehehe

Not sure about ULW. But NXT is said to have some also. But it's very very mild...more like a cleaner/glaze (filler) than polish. If you're thinking of removing some minor swirls with it, then forget it la. Cleaning up and give a little shine...maybe, but removing some mild defects...I don't think so.

You're just LIGHTLY 'wiping off' the sealant/wax residue right? If it remove the LSP, then may I suggest....CHANGE TO ANOTHER PRODUCT....hehehe.....

Second this. Good plan.

Practice on PROPER washing method.

After the IPA wipedown, if you see defects coming back, you're not really doing such a 'good work'. Ok...that sounded a bit harsh. Let me put it in another way. Most polishes have oils in them, acting as carriers and/or lubrication. Some of the oil *could* act as fillers. While the polish is able to remove defects, these oil *could* have a 'masking' effect and you wouldn't know whether you have FULLY remove the defects until you remove these oils. IPA will do that. Furthermore, these oil *could* also effect the 'bonding' of the sealant/wax with the paintwork. Removing the oil would make better bonding (think using alchohol/cleaner to clean before using glue), hence better performance/durability. Make sense....?