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 Car Care and Detailing [V2], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread

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TSKrisMas
post Apr 9 2013, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(acefreakz @ Apr 9 2013, 10:39 AM)
I have a noob question, can i apply permanon > sealant > wax > LSD?
I'm not that familiar with permanon....but that's a whole bunch of layers you're trying to do there. May I ask why?

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 9 2013, 10:53 AM
TSKrisMas
post Apr 9 2013, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(acefreakz @ Apr 9 2013, 10:39 AM)
I have a noob question, can i apply permanon > sealant > wax > LSD?
permanon > sealant : would love to know if the sealant can bond properly or not and whether it'll effect the durability of the sealant or remove the permanon
sealant > wax : normal la....but with permanon at the base....don't know
wax > LSD : you'd be in the clouds flying with the birds man....make love not war....HAHAHAHA.....
TSKrisMas
post Apr 9 2013, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(mav3rick @ Apr 9 2013, 09:45 AM)
user posted image
LOVE THIS SHOT!!!

QUOTE(acefreakz @ Apr 9 2013, 11:09 AM)
LOL i don get the last sentence xD ok since no one has done this ridiculous way before, i will review it soon biggrin.gif any idea how to know if the sealant bond properly or not?
You'd need to do one portion with the permanon and another portion on it's own and see if there's any difference in durability (you can roughly judge this by beading or sheeting actions after a wash).

QUOTE(GRexer @ Apr 9 2013, 11:12 AM)
Well.. It's actually LSP (Last Step Product), whatever you choose to put as the last step of protection, could be sealant, could be wax, usually wax if you plan to top over a sealant.
@acefreakz, hehehe....LSD is something you don't want to take when you're polishing....*peace*

QUOTE(mav3rick @ Apr 9 2013, 11:18 AM)
not really.. i just top it up during my weekly washes.. rest of the week i just turn a blind eye.. biggrin.gif
hey bro. if i were to get a polisher, any recommendation for pads? are the menzs pads any better than the megs ones??
Why you keep talking about Menz pads ah? Can get them cheap ah? Anything below RM40 is worth a try. You try and let us know la....hehehe...

QUOTE(GRexer @ Apr 9 2013, 11:31 AM)
Hm.. OK, although, personally, I don't really use much Instant Detailers except to maybe clean up bird poo before they dry up. Maybe I'm just lazy but I usually just coat on a sealant, and a layer of hard wax when I'm in the mood.
I don't use much of a quick detailer as well. Only for claying and 'emergency' *very* light cleaning. Spray sealants/waxes is different story though.
TSKrisMas
post Apr 9 2013, 05:40 PM

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@isaacjoe, yeah....try claying it. Most super/duper/hyper/etc. market got sell clay bar. Any brand would do since you're using it on glass. Remember to use some water as lube.

If that doesn't work, you can try alcohol, mineral spirit or lighter fluid with a cloth. These would 'melt' the wax so you would be left with some hazy looking surface so need wash with some soapy water afterwards.
TSKrisMas
post Apr 10 2013, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(ic3rock @ Apr 9 2013, 11:09 PM)
Just want to ask, after I apply rain act on my car fronreams rear screen, how come the rear 1 will have haze at night? I wash my car this morning and apply waxco rain act in the afternoon, any sifu know what's wrong? Besides, my car is 7 years+ old...
Not sure why. But I also got something like that with any kind of glass protection on, RainX, Rain Act, Rain *whatever*, Aquapel, Rainaway, etc. Not haze...but something like morning dew kinda thing. Normal? Don't know la....
TSKrisMas
post Apr 11 2013, 05:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 11 2013, 10:45 AM)
im using their f21 or fz or something wheel cleaner, green spray bottle around rm20-30 ish lol
that does the work and that's the end of it.

im on my 2nd or 3rd bottle now since i've started going into detailing lol.
Is this the one with a greenish bottle? Liquid inside also something like neon green or something? Spray on the tyres and you'd see all the brown crud melting and flowing down?
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 11 2013, 06:04 PM)
Oh...different one then. Used it a loooooong time ago can't remember which one already. Now mainly using Megs Wheel Brightener and Sonax.

QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Apr 11 2013, 08:25 PM)
Luckily for me the rims of the cars in my house are all relatively easy to clean ( no fancy slim gazillion spokes design ). But I can't reach the part which is after the spokes sad.gif. Is it really important to keep the rims free of brake dust even to the inner side of the rim?
The more frequently you clean, the easier it is to clean, and the least risk for the brake dust to eat through the paint and corrode the wheels. If already eaten through then only solution would be to repaint/refurb. That's all.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 12 2013, 08:43 AM
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 12 2013, 09:21 AM)
ooo heard many good things bout sonax, so how's it? and how come you using both? lol
Well...the Sonax works well for embedded/stubborn brake dust/iron contaminant but not so good in removing soil, dirt, oil film, etc.

I'm not actually using both together. All depends on what 'need' to be done. For normal weekly cleaning I just use an all purpose cleaner (Megs APC at 10:1). Wheel Brightener when/if I see the wheels requires something stronger or after doing heavy mileage (like balik kampung), ie. plenty of brake dust. I now only use the Sonax more for 'decontamination' job, i.e. those times when I want go for full details with the wheels taken off. Or when I just feel like having a little bit of fun watching the wheels turn purple....hehehe....
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 08:19 PM

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Waaahhh....you guys do it so frequently ah. I wished I still had the youth and strength that you guys are showing here. After a full detail, it would take me months (or should I say more than half a year) before doing any full-day job.......
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(saimatkong @ Apr 12 2013, 01:15 PM)
I used PPS and now still shine everytime I wash my car and really worth it. It's been 3 year +

For the 1st half year, every week I've been washing the car myself but then getting lazier and now 1-2 weeks+ only wash smile.gif
Bro, your PPS is out-of-date already la....

There, I've said it. You can start trying to defend the products now....anytime...
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 12 2013, 08:30 PM)
rofl harsh tongue.gif
Well...it's one of those days...you know. I'm just sick and tired with people trying to take advantage of the 'uninformed' public. Does he even know what Polytetrafluoroethylene or PTFE or Teflon® is....?

Well....anyway....please do correct me if I'm wrong. PPS is just another sealant. Swissvax also got a wax with PTFE in it.

I quote from an article just for argument sake:

"TEFLON/PTFE Sealants

This synthetic product is sometimes sold as a paint protective sealant or cleaner sealant. Some automobile manufacturers who market these products advertise Teflon products as an extremely long lasting product, with a protection span for your vehicle’s finish for anywhere from one to five years (sometimes longer). Unfortunately, this claim is dubious.

“If nothing sticks to Teflon, how does Teflon sticks to the pan?”

The answer is: “IT DOESN’T”. The bonding between Teflon and the pan is mechanical. The surface of the pan is etched and the Teflon is applied at temperatures over 640° F. Teflon simply dries in the etched pan and mechanically adheres to it.

In order to protect any surface with Teflon, it has to be applied at a very high temperature (over 640 F). Applying a spray-on version of Teflon or mixing the Teflon with water does not effectively bond the Teflon to the surface it is being applied to. The chemical formulation necessary to make a good bond cannot be completed at low temperatures.

Even if it was possible to bond Teflon to the vehicle paint, Teflon would give a dull, flat appearance on the vehicle’s surface, since it is a dull product. So if a large enough quantity is used to “protect” the paint, the paint will, in fact appear dull, this makes the entire procedure all but useless.

Even the manufacturer of Teflon does not recommend using it as a car wax additive. DuPont Chemicals (The producer of Teflon®) has stated: “The addition of a Teflon® Fluor polymer resin does nothing to enhance the properties of a car wax. We have no data that indicates the use of Teflon® is beneficial in car waxes.”


Any rebut is very much welcome.
TSKrisMas
post Apr 12 2013, 09:25 PM

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Anyway...PRU13 is around the corner so I'm just in that kinda mood....hahahaha.....
TSKrisMas
post Apr 13 2013, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 13 2013, 02:41 AM)
eh what does PRU has anything to do with mood  sweat.gif
Rebelious mood.....hehehe.....

QUOTE(limhongwoon @ Apr 13 2013, 10:07 AM)
All Sifu.

I need to ask how to solve this problem on My Car Roof : shocking.gif

user posted image
Any idea what could have caused that? Can't really judge from the picture. Looks like either calcium deposit (those whitish thingy that drips down from basement parking lots) or very oxidized/failed clear coat. What car? Age?

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 13 2013, 08:55 PM
TSKrisMas
post Apr 14 2013, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(ChiaKhai @ Apr 13 2013, 09:26 PM)
hi fellow detailers! im a newbee here, just joined in the detailing gang  tongue.gif

I recently bought the Megs DA polisher, and its full detailing set. Did my first detailing session for my mom's kelisa with a polisher, claybar and compound for the first time!  biggrin.gif But I have a few problems, hope all sifus can enlighten me  blush.gif

here are my steps: wash dry -> claybar -> compound -> polish -> wax.
after I finished compound, I found some tiny scratches on my roof, not sure it was there before or not, but it shouldnt be there after applying compound right.

1. is it possible to scratch my car with my claybar? cause i used it to remove tar (megs remover didnt do the job). now that it contains tar, would the tar potentially scratch the paint?
Possible. You'd need to knead the clay bar regularly or when you see the face of the clay bar had become dirty...even slightly. And make sure you use the right amount of lubricant...just enough that you would feel the clay gliding on the surface without any resistance. Also check for any 'large' grit on the surface of the clay and remove immediately.

2. is it possible to get scratches using the DA polisher? when I apply compound the process produce little "dust" like particles. is it normal? I wiped it off before polishing again. but would this get trapped in the polishing pad and scratch the paint?
Almost improbable. Check the scratch. Is it straight or circular. If it's circular then the polishing pad might just pick something up (grit) from the surface, i.e. surface is dirty or dirt particle had settled on it when you're polishing. If scratch is straight then you might had instilled in when you're wiping the polish residue, i.e. check the cloth. Polishing dust couldn't have been the cause.

3. Waxing, im using megs ULW, when Im cleaning the pad, i squeezed out plenty of product..  sweat.gif does it mean im using too much?
If you're using the Megs finishing pad on the DA, you'd only need 4 ~ 5 pea size drop for an area size of around half a bonnet....and even lesser after a few applications when the pad is a little saturated.
QUOTE(kevin916587 @ Apr 13 2013, 11:54 PM)
Hey guys, im new in here. I want to know how to wash and dry my car without leaving any scratches. ): What clothes should i use for wash and drying also? Is it microfiber clothes or any other suggestions? I hope someone respond to my question (:
Any good quality foam (sponge), microfiber or lambswool wash mitt would do fine (although I'm strictly a lambswool guy). The key here is to make sure the wash mitt is clean before it touches the paint, i.e. rinse the dirt off after one pass to clean it before using it for the next pass. For drying, a good quality microfiber waffle weave cloth is good. You can use any other drying chamois or cloth but just make sure when you wipe, don't 'scrub' and go over the surface VERY LIGHTLY. Blotting would be a good start as oppose to wiping....

QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Apr 14 2013, 01:42 PM)
I'm not sure what I have done wrong yesterday.

After coating, I have more hologram and swirl....

Something went wrong, but have no idea where.

rclxub.gif
Dirty mf?
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 09:20 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 15 2013, 12:59 AM)
btw to speed up drying process (and reference to previous TS of this thread), would you give an "ok" to using soft silicone wipers to quickly sheet away water before wafer weave/chamois drying?

the directions also mentioned to NOT apply force and i can easily see why especially if the silicone wiper picked up dirt and can easily damage the finishing.
however if one is careful, making sure after wipes to wash/inspect the blade, and of course gentle/no force applied wipes, should be no problem right?
With the correct awareness and technique, I guess it's safe to use it. Just be careful yeah.

One another note, if/when you car has a very healthy coat of protection on, water *should* be able to sheet faily well with an open hose and what's left can be easily dried with one single piece of drying cloth.

QUOTE(acefreakz @ Apr 15 2013, 08:15 AM)
sifu-sifu here please help me~ I have 2 problems here(refer to pic #1 and #2 below)

1. How to reduce this damn persistent dirt? As u see from the pic, the whiter area is after i applied from wax, amazingly wax can remove it -.-, so any other way to do it? I wash car twice a week, and after abt 1 month, this happens lol -.- everytime. Damn annoying la =( FYI, i parked my car w/o covered place, 24/7

If normal wax can remove it, chances are a strong cleaner also can....something like a weak APC. But be prepare to wax again though. Or you can try a stronger mix of shampoo. There's really no method (not that I know of) that can prevent it except for regular washing and maintaining a healthy coat of protection. If you're anal about it, try to consider those modern 'coatings'. I've got plenty of those drip marks and stains too but washes off fairly easily with normal shampoo (I have one car on 'glass' coating and the other on 'ceramic' coating).

2. My paint seems f***ed up lol, any idea how to cure? =( It's strange that only this part of the car become like this.

Hrrmm....could that be caused by adhesive? Or maybe somebody clean the area with some strong solvent before putting on those? Looks like it's along the same place. Looks too far gone to 'cure'.
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(mav3rick @ Apr 15 2013, 10:17 AM)
btw bro krismas, i was reading the back info of the UQD yesterday during my wash.. noticed that it contains Iso propyl alcohol. that's the IPA right? that is capable of removing LSPs right? hmm.. am wondering how come Meg's are advertising it as being able to prolong wax protection..  blink.gif
Oh...I thought you knew already. I was saying all along that UQD has quite a strong cleaning properties. I especially like it (on certain occasions) because of this (but my current fav is Dodo Juice Red mist. How much more solvent? - can use as flame thrower...nuff said...hahaha). Our dirty environment sometimes requires something stronger than the normal quick detailer so that it's able to remove the stubborn dirt/oil film, especially after a long drive in the city. Yes it might clean off a little of whatever LSP you have on, but I don't think it's strong enough to remove it (unless the LSP is already weak). hrrm....comes to think of it, you can try the UQD to remove those dirt stain, it might work. But your cloth will get very dirty though.... laugh.gif
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 01:25 PM

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Just my personal opinion la.

By all means just use the UQD if you see dirt built-up that can't be easily wash off with normal shampoo. The LSP had already been compromised and had allowed dirt to 'stick' to it. Using something like the UQD would remove that compromised layer together with the contaminant, eposing a fresh layer, whilst at the same time the UQD also leaves a little bit of it's own 'protective layer' behind. Top it up with UQW if you're looking for further assurance.

Just my 2 sen.
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 03:27 PM

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hrrmm....I think this had been blown a little bit out of proportion already. I don't think the UQD is so aggressive that it'll TOTALLY remove existing wax/sealant. Maybe remove a little bit of it but TOTALLY remove...I don't think so la.

About the meet....I tot you were the one who's suppose to be looking for the venue....tongue.gif
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 05:36 PM

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Machine hands on session with bro Krismas

Date: 01/05/2013 (Wednesday)
Time: TBD
Venue: TBD
Machines available: Borch ROB, DA polisher, Rupes Bigfoot??
Confirmed: Bosch ROB, Megs G220, Ultramate DA (DAS6 Pro), DeWalt 849X Rotary, Rupes LHR15 ES aka Bigfoot
Still arranging to get: Flex XC 3401 VRG, Bosch Rotary

Those interested, please put down your name:

1) mav3rick.. aka Ivan
2) acefreakz aka Solid

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 15 2013, 08:23 PM
TSKrisMas
post Apr 15 2013, 05:38 PM

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@mav3rick...you didn't tell me you're Ivan. Didn't you get my pm in your fb? You're approved now. Prepare to be poisoned....hahaha....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Apr 15 2013, 05:39 PM

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