I haven't tried too many of them, but there's two products that I think are worth considering. One is the Soft99 Rain Hop - great beading, nice durability of around 2 ~ 3 weeks. The other is Naviwax Ioncoat - was still beading nicely after 3 weeks when I decided to wash it off and top up with something else. A little bit less user-friendly as compare to some other paste waxes - tends to streak a lot of the surface is not prep/clean properly. But if done right, can rival some of the more exotic waxes.

Those are water spots/marks/etchings. If you can't remove them by 'rubbing' it, you'd most probably need something stronger to remove them. If they're just 'light' spotting you might be able to remove them with some chemical (water spot remover, vinegar, etc.) or, if severe enough, the only way to 'remove' them is by compounding. You can try claying but, personally, I don't like claying off water spots as you'd most probably would need some polishing afterwards since claying would induce some marring. I'd rather chemically remove them as oppose to claying if they're just light spottings.

The picutre that TDUEnthusiast shows is hard water etchings - the clear coat is already etched/damaged. Those would definitely need some heavy compounding work.

I only know of one place selling this: Micro Restore Microfiber Detergent Concentrate. Damn expensive though....RM100 for 32oz.

For the initial cleaning, you might want to use Megs WB or IronX. Megs WB have worked well for me every time but, on those very stubborn ones, some agitation (with a soft brush) is still needed. And for the initial cleaning, it's best if you can take the wheels off...easier to 'scrub' and get into those hard-to-reach areas (like behind the spokes). Sonax Full Effect is a tad bit weaker than IronX but it also worked in removing those embedded brake dust....though a little slower and needed a few rounds but it does work. But my money is still on Megs WB. Find somebody who's willing to sell you some 500ml of it if you think 1gal is too much. At 1:4 you already have 2.5L of it and that's more than enough already. Do a couple of rounds of cleaning and if you can still see them, try claying them off and then clean again afterwards.

For maintenance, I just use an APC (light dusting) or degreaser (heavy dusting). I clean them every week (including the wheel barrel) and, normally, it'll take about a year or so before I need to do another off-wheel cleaning. Since you've already have it, OPC at 1:5 would do fine for maintenance. Just remember to rinse thoroughly though cuz OPC is a little bit stubborn to fully rinse off and any residue *could* cause some whitish stain on the wheel. Normally, I'd go for another round using normal shampoo if I were to use OPC.

DG105 is a sealant. Don't ask me why they call it a polish but it's definitely a sealant....

Autobacs Klang got quite a few of them. But last time I went around a couple of months ago I noticed their stocks is 'shrinking'....don't know why....

You can try asking Hypercoat SG.

hrrmm...I haven't tried mixing D156 into D114 before. But, even if it does work, wouldn't it just be a waste as you'd be diluting the D156? Wouldn't using them separately would be more effective? Just a thought. Anyway, I'll give it a try also when I got the time.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 20 2013, 12:15 PM

I'm not sure what that 'holder' is called but local Sonax does sell something with similar function called the Sonax P-Ball, RRP at RM38.

DA pads are ok for hand use. Actually, I like them better as I know their level of aggressiveness....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 22 2013, 09:17 AM

Yup. So far they worked just fine for me....and much better (and faster) than the hand applicator for deeper defects removal (I'm talking about the LC CCS orange & white spot pads). But I don't like using the Megs spot pads by hand though...they're a bit too thick.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 22 2013, 04:58 PM

Megs ScratchX is it? You can use it with the Megs yellow applicator pad. One pea-size drop for around 5" ~ 6" long scratch. Put some passion (pressure) on it for removing the scratch. Then lighten up the pressure for 'refining'. Might need quite a few rounds to remove scratches as it's not as aggressive as Megs Ultimate Compound.

You can also use it with a cotton or microfiber cloth for the initial few passes for removing the scratch and use the yellow applicator later for 'refining'. Cotton and microfiber cloth are more aggressive than the yellow foam and would work faster on deeper scratches.

Just take note that some deeper scratches aren't that easy to remove altogether...even when using a machine/rotary. So don't be disappointed if it doesn't work for you.

How much is the garage sale? Interested in getting another one if the price is right.....

Yes. Just a matter of how bright your torch is and how dark is the background or how much is the surrounding light. Basically, a torch rated around 150 lumen or above can show swirls on cars under the shade/porch.

Find yourself some tar remover, soak a tissue or cotton ball with it and put over the sap. Don't let the tissue dry and keep it damp with the tar remover by topping up. Let it dwell for 10~15 mins. That *should* soften the sap and then gently scrap it off with your fingernails or a soft plastic (like your laminated driving license). If not soft enough repeat the soaking. If still doesn't work then you'd need to get some wet sanding paper and CAREFULLY sand THE SAP off.

Personally, I like the LHR15 over the LHR21. I've tried both before deciding & the 21mm throw was too much for my liking/preference. Furthermore, I like using the smaller pads.

Yes you can get the extra LHR15 backing plate to use with smaller pads but, just FYI, the throw would still be 21mm.

There's one DIT (Do It Together) in the pipeline....trying to sort out the details. Stay tuned.

You still have your B&D with you? (or was it the Bosch.....)

That would be the B&D.

LOL....Used to be 'just for waxing only' but you'd be surprised what some of the current polishes can do on that machine. Even my Bosch is now able to remove sanding marks, which was quite impossible to do during 'those times'....hehehe....

Btw, wanted to ask you for long time already but keep delaying and forgetting. How come got *extra* pads in the bag you gave back ah?

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 29 2013, 04:23 PM

Oh? I tot you modded it like our old lost friend....errr...what's his name now.....

You should know better that 'cheap' doesn't always agree with 'good'.....

Joking aside....you should give DG105 a try....that or Menzerna Power Lock.

I'm thinking on a Saturday or Sunday, 2 weeks from now.....

Repaint eh? Those would need sanding and leveling. Not sure whether it's safe unless you're willing to risk clear coat 'puncture' or strike through.

Nope. That's the 'legendary' bad paint job....

Car Care & Detailing [V3] is up.

Quazacolt...do your stuff....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Dec 2 2013, 05:41 PM