You're talking about Opti Coat/Guard. Opti Seal is the normal sealant kind....

The easier way is to start with a brand that has everyting that you need. Most established brand would have the basic products that you mentioned. If you're looking to buy them from local stores (specifically ACE Hardware), you can look for Meguiars, Mothers, Sonax, 3M, etc. For online, Meguiars, Mothers, Duragloss, Sonax, or Optimum. I can try to suggest details from each brand if you like.

From your posts, sounds like you've already done quite some readings and have a good understanding of what you're looking for. In your case, let me suggest a mix of brands instead of only sticking with one. Reason being, I don't think there's one single brand that excel in everything. I'm also going for the assumption that you intend to use the products by hand (with future upgrading to a DA/ROB).

1. Clay - Soft99 Clay bar. Try to get the one for White color car. Or if you're willing to spend a little more, get the 3M clay - blue colour in a black tub/container.
2. Compound & Polish - I suggest the Megs twin Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. These two would be able to tackle *almost* any defects.
3. Sealant - now this is the tricky part. For OTC I would suggest 3M Perfect-it Show Car Paste Wax. But if you're wiling to make an exemption, I strongly suggest getting Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish. There are a couple of shops around PJ area that sells them. You can find them at Duragloss Malaysia Web.

Oh...and after all the above, I do need to stress that THE MOST important part in detailing is actually MAINTENANCE. There's really no point in spending all your time and money doing up your car to shine to your expectations and then getting it all swirled up again after one (or two) washes. You should find yourself a good quality shampoo, wash mitt and, most importantly, drying cloth, and study the proper washing and drying techniques. With good maintenance, chances are, you won't need to do a full detail job for quite a few months.

Regards.

I'm not sure how they operate, but you *might* be able to get them at Optimum Malaysia authorised dealer/distributor's place. Other than that, I don't know any place that sells them off the shelves.

I use both WB & APC at 1:10. For general maintenance, I'm with the thinking that better do more passes or spray more product at weaker dilution than using stronger dilution....not taking any unnessesary risks. Megs reco dilution for both is between 1:4 ~ 1:10. When APC at 1:10 doesn't work I change to Megs Super Degreaser, also at 1:10. I only use WB at max dilution 1:4 to clean wheels with lots of accumulated brake dust. For cleaning interiors (plastic, vinyl, leather&fabric) I use APC at 1:20~25...good enough already for most job.

Don't use the WB for wipe down or like IPA. WB contain surfectants that need to be rinse/clean off. Else if it dries, it could leave some whitish haze on the surface that would need to be polished off. Much like what happened to MyWifeCar when using the OPC.

For WB on paint (to remove water spots - yes, I found that WB also works great for decontamination of light water spots), I also normally use 1:10 on WET surface after normal shampoo wash, and follow up again with another shampoo wash afterwards. Redo at same strength if/when required.

And arj, I think maybe you've mistaken the dilution...sounds like those are for OPC instead for Megs APC.

Oh...and Quazacolt, I think I also need to explain a little more regarding Megs All Purpose Cleaner, Super Degreaser & Wheel Brightener. Each product in Megs Detailers range are designed for specific job, namely APC for removal of natural soiling, SD for oil or petrolium based contaminant and WB for brake dust. They work great (at least for me) if used for what they are intended for. Use it for something else...well...they might not work as good or as fast. For example, WB don't work as good against mud or soiling on wheels as that would be the job for APC. But APC won't be able to clean those stubborn brake dust as good or as fast as WB.

I haven't tried any of the two NEAT, if that's what you mean. I had tried them at recommended full strength (1:4) but I found that it's just a waste as they have, so far, performed quite satisfactorily (in my case) at 1:10.

Yeah....that's why some shifted to Duragloss when they were made available locally, which gives more value for money...but still can't beat TW's price though...

Still....you'd need to think of it another way. For example, DG's shampoo is more expensive than TW but it is also more concentrated. You're actually using lesser product and, in the long run, the DG might just cost around the same price or could even be cheaper than TW.....just a thought....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jun 4 2013, 09:26 PM

What do you mean by 'a few more items'....when it started IT WOULD NEVER END man.....muahahaha

Assuming both at the same price, recommended dilution (on the label), OPC - neat to 1:3~5, APC 1:4 ~ 1:10.....

How much bro?

This one ka?

TW ICE...I was only able to get it working for 1 week....2 at most....THE MOST over-rated product that I *very much* regretfully purchased

Second the 1st one. Seemed to get some adverse effects (takes longer to dry, streaking, shorter durability, amongsr others) if applying LSP late in the evening or at night or high humidity. Also second on the polishing, seemed to 'work' better at colder temp/high humidity.

About the 'baking' of the LSP, I did mean pulling the car out after buffing off the residue. I found that waxes/sealants cure faster and bond better after doing so - better durability.

If you can't afford to buy one....you can always borrow one....

U using clay cloth frm Osren?

K. Here's a few tips. Firdt, like arj said, you need to 'break in' the cloth. A few rounds all around the windscreen would do & soak it really wet before use. Second, you can cut it into half or a quarter if you want, just like normal clay, use one portion and store the rest for later. Third, you can use water (lots of it) or normal shampoo mix for lube...the amount required is just like normal washing, just that this time u're using the clay cloth instead of wash mitt. Remember to rinse the cloth frequently to remove any contaminant removed by the clay cloth. Again, keep the surface WET...not just damp. I haven't really tried it with a qd, but normal shampoo had worked fine for me. Another thing you should know is that the clay cloth is quite aggressive, so more lube/water is better unless the paint is really badly contaminated.

Oh...don't need to use distilled water for the APC la....you're going to rinse it off anyway....normal pipe water ok already....

Hey....I can do that....hehehe...but lousy and crappy 3gp quality though....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdXCcD-oa38

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jun 10 2013, 07:34 PM

Aiyo....can't open ka???!!! Malu la.....

* Edited. Now somebody need to teach me how to embed the video......

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jun 10 2013, 07:35 PM

Really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, these type of attitude are very common and its the very reasin i venture into DIY.

About the marker stain, you can try using petrol or diesel. Dampen a cloth and lightly wipe the marks and see whether its coming off ornot. Actually, thinner won't harm the paint if you just use it as a wipe. If you don't feel conmfortable using solvents, u can try tar remover. Come again if the above don't work.

@mav3rick, you're back from your trip? Brought back anything interesting?

LOL...Forget about G220 and buy a brand new Ultramate la.....muahahaha....