Oh? Ahhh....secretly ah?

Don't know about the wrong voltage use, but I know a little bit about the pad/backing plate rotation. Firstly, even though the G110/G220 is called a 'DA', it's not really a 'Dual Action' per se (vibrate & rotate at the same time), its actually a form of Random Orbital machine. The backing plate is fixed onto a free spinning spindle , i.e. the pad can spin freely. Hence you can safely put your hand onto the pad when the machine is on and can stop the pad frm spinning. It's the friction between the pad & the paint that's really causing the pad to spin. So, to get the pad to spin correctly when polishing, you have to have the face of the pad as flat as possible with the surface and the pressure exerted is just right. If you angle it in a certain way with certain pressure, the pad can stop spinning or even spin the other way around.

A true 'Dual Action' would be like the Flex 3401 VRG or the Makita...err...I think its the 9040 or something...which have, what we commonly called, a 'forced rotation' whereby you can't stop the pad from rotating.

Another possible reason for the velcro delamination would be due to heat. Although the surface of the paint don't heat up that much as compared to using the rotary, due to the random orbital movement, the pad itself would generate quite some heat internally. The heat, coupled with the orbital movement could weaken the adhesive and delaminate the velcro that's glued to the foam. So far i found that this could happen when either working with the same pad for too long with too much pressure, or when the pad is damp or cacked up with compound/polishes.

Keep practicing trying to hold the machine so as to get the pad to be as flat as possible and try to find that 'sweet spot' with the pressure to get the necessary spinning speed.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jun 11 2013, 10:06 PM

LOL....kinda quoting 'old' post there. Where have you been bro?

Hrrmm...is that rust? Iron remover.....?

D156 is the pro version of UQW, same product tweeked for the pros. Might not be identical but, normally, I found that their performace/usage is better as compared to the consumer version as they don't have to worry about the average Joe goofing up the usage and taking advantage of the 'satisfaction guarantee or your money back' thingy that they have over there....oh...and not to mention far far cheaper....hahaha....

After reading about the stuffs that he tried, it doesn't sound like any 'normal' poop. Anyway, the colour do look like rust....a 'heavy metal' birdie...???!!!

@sakurazz, how does the surface on that particular area feels like? Or, better still, you know anybody who has those 30X handheld microscope or something similar....?

That looks awful. Definitely a re-paint job...some dents work too...you're looking at around RM600 for a decent paintjob. Price would vary a lot though, depending on the level of workmanship you're looking for.

Been a while since I went for a shopping spree like this....DON'T FORGET THE REVIEWS YA....hehehe....

Haven't tried anything that's successful....so far 3' is the closest I can get away without noticing them, using paint specifically mixed to match by car paint supplier.....

Clay & Polish - In my book, clay is a must before doing any polishing even if you don't see any embeded dirt. And I do suggest you still do a light polish even if you don't see any 'scratches'. You wouldn't know how long the car had been stored in an open field and how much contaminants it had 'sucked up'. A light claying and polish would remove any embeded dirt and 'deep clean' the surface and would make the sealant/wax of your choice perform better.

Since you mentioned Optimum, why don't you go for Optimum Car Wax instead of the OID. Not much use of the OID except for after a wash to spruce up a little bit of shine, and also, it won't lay down much of a protection on the paint. A spray sealant/wax like Optimum Car Wax, Megs Ultimate Quick Wax, Duragloss Aquawax, etc. is something good to have in hand for a quicky topping-up when you notice the protection is deteriorating.

Oh...may I also suggest you get something for those plastic deck, trims, steps, etc...that lorry of yours have lots of plastic/vinyl. A water-based/spray on dressing that can be diluted would be very suitable, just spray on and wipe evenly...something like Duragloss 321 Non Silicone Dressing or the like.

Wow....but, good investment, cuz so far haven't had any issues with adhesive residue or taking the paint along when removing with those 3M blue or green tapes. Expensive, but I think it's 60m so it's gonnago a long way....

I don't see anything wrong with the video. He's covered all the basics. You might want to have some brushes or rags for any stubborn/cacked in areas and brush/wipe them before the hose-down. Now, this is VERY IMPORTANT! REMEMBER ALL THE PLACES YOU'VE COVERED WITH THE ALUMINIUM FOIL AND MAKE SURE YOU REMOVED THEM ALL BEFORE STARTING THE CAR.

Oh...and check out Megs Hyperdressing. Spray on when still wet, close the lit, start the engine, open the bonnet after 5 minutes and watch how shiny the engine become after it dries.....hahaha

Sorry. Don't know of any equivalent/alternative. Get a gallon and share la. I think Kecik Jb in 'the group' sells them quite cheap. If not can get from 'you-know-who' la.

- hyper dressing - water based
- all season dressing - silicone based and it's more like Megs GC Endurance
- silicon free dressing - don't know much about this one.

Oh...btw Hyperdressing's dilution is between 1:1~4

For SD, like I said, I normally use 1:10 on everything. If one application not enough then I'd rather go for another round instead of using a stronger dilution. But for engine, especially those that aren't that well maintained, I'd start with 1: 5~8. JFYI, SD at 1:4 is really wicked. On tires, you'd immediately see brown residue being dissolved and dripping down, on wheels you'd see the dirt and brake dust (those loose ones) being 'dislodged' and flowing down, on undercarriage all you'd need is just to spray it and you'd see the whole underside turning brown and dripping everywhere on the floor, PW wash and all is done....minimal scrubbing needed. But, at the price that we are paying for it, 1:10 had performed well enough for me personally...no need to overdo and 'waste'....

OPC is safe for rubber, provided that you rinse off thoroughly.

May I suggest a wet/dry vacuum instead. The 'wet extractor' might come in handy in the future...

Don't know of any 'portable' wet/dry vacuum. Maybe compact ones but not-so-portable: http://www.perfectlifes.com/category/16-steam-vacuum

...very....their compact 'entry level' household steamer/extractor would set your bank account back by RM1.8k. They came over to my house and did a demo....was impressed (with the machine but not the salesman who was not able to answer many of my questions with a straight face) but, alas, too expensive for me.....

Oh...the 'foamer' that comes with the PW or the 'chemical intake tube' is practically USELESS (foam-less).

This was only using 2oz of Optimum Car Wash with a proper foam lance...MUAHAHAHAHA.......

Don't have any other picture of it except for the one below. I thought it would work with my normal garden hose (which has quite a high pressure) but it doesn't. Now it's currently fitted to my pressure washer gun. Got it from CYC and it cost me....errr....not sure....I think around RM4xx or so.....



Unfortunate....but this commonly happened every year after haze+rain....

IPA/APC/SD wouldn't work much on water spots. Best (safest) is to clay then polish.

Oii!! No 'cuci2 bersih' camping in front of my house okay!! And if you want anything supernatural you'd need to come over at midnight when the moon is full la.....LOL

You forgot about the shipping....that thing is full brass (except for the plastic parts) and is heavy man...

Same thing...safest is to clay then polish...won't take much to remove the SG...

I didn't say anything.....