Clean Your Car - a UK based online detailing products supplier

Nice one. What dilution?

DG UO is an APC, and because its citrious bases, it can also be use as a mild degreaser. 1:20~25 for interior, 1-10~15 for exterior (as apc), 1:5~neat for light degreasing.

Well....you haven't found it's full potential yet...say...household use....LOL

Even using it neat, it wont harm the paint, IPA is a very weak solvent. But it'll be a little wasted if u use the spray method as some would have evaporated before it has the time to do its job. Better go 1:1 with distilled water....or 25% even....then you wound have time to wipe whatever it desolved before they're dry up again.

Wanna try going 1:15 and see whether it also work. Cuz i think 1:10 is too strong for fabrics....and also would be a little bit more difficult to rinse off thoroughly....I normally use around 1:20, but if it's as soiled as the picture shows, a stronger dilution would be better.

For 'artificial' lighting/'swirl finder'/defect checking, next best (after the sun) would be a high CRI torchlight/floodlight (like the street light). But normal halogen/metal halide/LED with 3000k ~ 4500k colour temp would do fine. But for those surface defects like orange peel, oxidations, burn through, etc. normal fluorescent tube would do. A high powered LED is also very handy (cuz it's very portable) but couldn't show hologram marks very well.

What brush/usage?

RM5 for 3 batang at Giant, paint supply/accessories section....'al-cheapo' but works la. After a few usage the bristles got hardened a little la but, at that price, I just throw away (or save it for brushing non-painted). Can't compare because haven't got those al-expensive ones before...

*mental note: another one into the list of tests to do*

For those of you who are wondering what Hyperdressing is, it's a water-based dressing for interior/exterior rubber, plastics, vinyl, etc. It comes in a concentrated form, i.e. for usage, recommended dilution from 1:1 ~ 1:4, the stronger the dilution and shinier the finish.

I particularly like the HD because it's easy to use especially for dressing the engine bay and wheel wells. After cleaning, I spray it on and just let it dry....no need to wipe except if there's overspray, etc.

I don't have any recent pics but here's roughly how it looks. Remember, this is just spray on and walk away...no wiping....

BEFORE/AFTER


BEFORE/AFTER


BEFORE/AFTER


Oh...and like always, proper cleaning is the key for best results. But with HD, after cleaning I can straight away spray on the wet engine/engine bay, start the engine and let the heat do the drying and....voila....

Won't last too long on exterior (exposed) trim...since it's water based. I'd say...maybe...2 or 3 washes. The HD excels more on conveniences...spray on and leave dry. So, other then for engine bay & wheel wells, I don't use it much for anything else. On tyres the shine can only last for around one week or so (at 1:4 dilution).

On tyres, it will sling if still wet. If use on exterior trims, you would get a little bit of runs if exposed to heavy rain. When dry, it's non-greasy and *almost* completely dry to touch and won't 'hold' dirt. I do prefer something else instead of HD for trims.

For exterior trims?

Smooth (coated) plastics - use whatever sealant/wax you're using on the paint.
Smooth or textured (non coated) plastics - something gel/silicone based. I like Autoglym Bumper Care.
Rubber trims - ermm...this would be a little bit unconventional, but I do like Megs Endurance for exterior rubber trims.

But if looking for one single products for all, I'd say Optimum Opti Bond is a good all rounder.

But, saying all that, there would be certain application technique in order to minimise runs due to rain, etc. For one thing, needless to say they need to be cleaned. Then use the products sparringly with a cloth and, sort of like, working the product in to form just a thin layer. Then let it dry before exposing them to water or if want to apply a second layer. All the above products would leave a litthe sticky/greasy feel so you'd need to do another round of wiping with a dry cloth, if required, to remove the excess.

Errrmm...Megs Super Degreaser? Isn't 1:3 a little above the recommended dilution/strength. Carefull.....

Time to get some brushes then. Those baby bottle brushes (especially those with long handle) would come in handy for the engine bay, especially for those hard-to-reach areas.

Because it'll leave a whitish stain (polish-like) residue on plastics/rubber.

Yeah man....awsome find on the pdf file. Now can bring it along when going window shopping at Autobacs. Thanks a whole lot man.

Extremeautodetailing....my place to visit if (and that's a BIG if) I were to send my car(s) for somebody else to do....hehehe....

Pads, compound, polishes, microfiber cloths, etc....what car(s) ah?

Basically you'd need compunding/cutting pads (min 2 nos) to go with a compound - e.g. Lake Country 5.5" yellow/orange pad with Megs Ultimate Compound.
Then polishing pads (min 2 nos) to go with a polish - e.g. LC 5.5" white with Megs Ultimate Polish.
Then a finishing pad for light polishing/AIO/sealant/etc.
Also don't forget to get a few microfiber cloths (at least 3, but the more the better) for buffing off the compond/polish/sealant.

I would advice to get 2 pads if you intend to do the whole car or even half a car since the pad would become caked up with compound/polish and would need to be washed after a couple of panels. But if you intend to do one or two panel per session, then one of each would be enough.

Never tried before, but 2800rpm is very high considering people would go up to only about 2100~2500rpm on the rotary....