Stock tyres trade in is between RM400 - 600 for all 4 pieces. Good performance tyres from RM370 -450 per piece. You can get a RM1k discount from your SA?

Performance drivers will know their tyres and use their 'performance'. Judging by brand rather than by the model of that brand will lead you to wasted 'budget'.

Better you stick to the OE tyre which is good enough for some good safe fun and relatively quiet till worn.

CAMPIRO tyre ok ok only,but is super duper noisy

plan to change to neuton nt8000 after my tyre almost finish

Bax2 ok la. Can pakai for normal use but 34 35 psi to play play. Outer shoulder not for main high G corner.

Tyre roar above 60 % worn cannot complain. Alot of tyres also like that. Before that the sound is ok rite?

Was hunting for NT5000 but seems all want to promote NT8000. Inner and outer shoulder terbalik like bax2

new car the tyre also very noisy oredi...especially when i drive on abit rough road
lastime use goodyear n michelin tyre on other car at same road not so noisy like bax2

nt8000 better than nt5000 is it?the price/donut just rm10-20 different only(205/55r16),so take nt8000 lor

my car will shake abit during pressing pedal when going uphill time. normal?

Have you done DIY engine mount? It does help a bit in removing some of the shaking...

it will fix that problem..
tell us when you get that change already

I find the noise level of the Bax2 acceptable if not relatively quiet at 34 psi. 1000km on the Preve and 16000km without rotation on the Exora.

To compare different tyres should be using same car and same size. The section width and aspect ratio does affect noise and grip. Rough road noisy is ok to me. Just need to ensure noise is subdued on tarred roads which is thread pattern dependant. I now used harder compound tyres cos I need them to last at least 12 months. Harder compound translates to more noise on rough roads as well as higher pitch squeals when breaking traction.

NT8000 is newer and assymetrical with more sipes. My priority is always wider thread blocks on the outside shoulder. Whether directional or assym hence I would go for NT5000. When I saw which was the outside inside on the NT8000, I was thrown off. This is also reflected in the reviews comparison between 5000 & 8000.

7 speed protronic isnt real gear ratio, its just software based ratio to give acceleration feeling@normal feeling of normal auto n the best thing even its software based, it give u the control to the gear ur self unless u overrev it or under rev it, it wud shift uppward n downward on its own to protect the gearbox.. Whether in cfe@iafm+ cvt, in full cvt mode.the ratio n gear can be said as infinite, but of course, it has min n max ratio. Punch can set even 20 speed cvt, but using paddle shift, it wud be ridiculous.

Thats why i just mentioned the rpm coz for cvt, we control the rpm of the engine, n the cvt will search suitable ratio to match with the rev.thats why, uf u rev fast at 3k rpm, the rpm stay stagnat at 3k, but the speed rise from 0-140kmh+-. So, there is no close ratio or long ratio between cvt, only when u change into full manual mode, then, the cvt been given fixed ratio through software.

Experiment with cai? :-), just remember, to change it back when sending for service. Erm, to say the air intake is the worst, i think its not bad coz everything has been calculated precisely, not just by trial n error method. It jsut for any car manufacturer, there r something they need to adhere n abide for many reasons. Thats why even standard porshe, mercedes n even beemer, can be modified to be better performance, is that showing the weakness of their rnd@engineering? Nope, the oe way is diff compare to tuners route.

Let say ecu tuning, mostly it involve af ratio an it just done based on dyno, not on the road for tuners, but for oe engineers, setting up ecu involve everything even the diameter of the exhaust is taken into account to set the perimetres. All setting not in dyno, but in real world, involve hard n cold weather, diff fuel, diff weight, diff route, diff road n etc. Remember, oe tuning take into account comfort, safety, longevity, reliability, servicability, environmental rules, power, n etc. While tuners searching for highest power they can get, it doesnt matter at which rpm, at which cost@at which rules coz no rules they need to follow, but not for oe.

For air intake, not only diameter, length, material, filter size n material, the route, postion, everything has been calculated precisely with safety aspect, performance, reliability, cost n etc.

Im just a layman, but if needed more info, u really need to meet them, u will be amaze on how is the big diff, between engineers, technicians n tuners. It only takes one mechanic to change the air intake to bigger one@better one from shelf, but it takes more than 20 engineers to think n designing the air intake to match with engine needs n etc.

What DIY engine mounting? How?

Guys, 1k service for my preve cfe is just around the corner..any helpful tips or things to avoid?

What type of engine oil should i use? Semi or fully synthetic?

By the way any SC that is reliable n recommended in KL or Sel? Need to resolve few things also for my preve. Thx

No magnetrap, no X1R treatment...not other optional stuffs...

Semi if you want to service every 5,000km and you want to save on cost

Fully if you want to service every 10,000km and you have lots of $$$

Try Sec 13 Service Centre...recommended

Please go to Prevoc FB under files section

next thread going to put
1. how much for 1st service, 2nd service,4rd service.
2. which sc provided good service
3. what is DIY engine mounting and german sausages.
4. fc.

what else?
these questions are just repeating questions which are getting bored and annoying.

No magnet trap is a very wrong decision, for new car it recommended to use it as it not exp. It will help to reduce friction in your engine. My first service with Magnet trap, semi synthetic, oil filter and few regular service just 190+.

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Mar 23 2013, 10:05 AM

Mat, nice.

On the ratio, I refer when on tip mode which I still find the best for 'less civil' but fun driving.

On the CAI, looking at best option to easiy revert to stock routing which is super safe but only takes whatever does not go past the radiator and condenser.

Put on first page or Prevoc? No joke for somebody new to go through all the version and follow lyn daily.

For you otais these questions might be boring n annoying but for new owners like me these might be important ones...just so you know ive tried searching n gone through the thread but on the 1st service thingy but theres a lot to go through...also search the front page but no info..in the end hv to ask also..

maybe more trick and tips? like recommended tyre, a little mod to make the car better.

Those old timer being asked same question many many times.

Important thing is to remember they 're not paid to answer or share info.

For us newbie have to filter thousands of pages from the different version if lyn and search function is limited.

Lagi got 'phantom' preve owners posting problem problem problem till paranoia sets in.