went there today, not yet move as they said maybe still got 2 month left
my alternator burned, sob sob

This post has been edited by shinkawa: Jun 28 2017, 02:43 PM

When your battery is weak it's time to do check on the alternator.

not necessarily.. happen to me last time both battery and alternator "kong" at the same time.. alternator kong it happen without warning for my case..

Any idea whether the shop still operating? The number provided seems not reachable.

You can try this number 0362582295

The place hasn't change still beside the used car shop, just went to the shop to service my alternator

Still at jalan ipoh old place 3rd July 2017. Will move in 2-3 months time to kepong.
Repairing my alternator now.

updated: my car battery & alternator was totally drain before my car towed to the shop. after repairing the alternator, i was driving with the 'check engine' lights on. after a day drive. the 'check engine' light go off. pheww scare the shit out of me.

i'm happy for the professional workmanship.

This post has been edited by szecheng: Jul 4 2017, 05:29 PM

thanks for update, my iswara alternator just died after 18 years. FINALLY can go there lol

Wow 18years proton boleh! I own iswara before. Serve me well.

Just kaotim less than 200 for recond

Almost the entire alternator needs fixing:
Rotor
IC
regulator
Coil
What carbon brush? (Totally gone lol)

Its cheap, other places charges abt rm230.00 with GST included

Re-cond with 3 mths warranty.

In future, you can eliminate the Check Engine Light faster with an OBD2 scanner & clear the fault code with it , if the hardware supports.

may I know how do we know alternator is malfunction/not working well?

hard to start engine? or battery always died in 1 year?

theres an even easier way..... the old school way.

get the car started, then cabut the battery (take the -ve terminal off)..... if the car dies, your alternator aint working or is supplying insufficient power. If it keeps running, its usually alright (do check with a voltmeter to double check, you should be pushing somewhere 13 and up volts)

why not cabut the +ve terminal off ?

just incase if u cabut and ter-touch some other body part of the car... remember the entire car is basically a negative terminal

edit: actually the much higher risk is when you are trying to undo the clamps.... takut your spanner terkene a part of the car (be it the frame, some other bolt or even the stabilizer bar).

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Jul 19 2017, 05:33 PM

so its safer to cabut the -ve then

btw, what if both terminals cabuted & the car still working, means double konfirm the alternator is working fine ?

[ just pray dun touch or connect both terminals together, else sure kabooooooooom ]

I did that when I swap my spare batteries for my car to charge them once in a while.

u dont need to cabut both, cabut one side and the circuit is already broken. at that point. the battery is nolonger part of the circuit.

We are disconnecting the battery to test one and only one thing, that the alternator is supplying charge and its not the case where the alternator is dead and the car is running purely on the battery's charge. On its own the alternator should be able to power the car and charge the battery at the same time. (unless you have some sort of fancy sound system or have added alot of silly power hungry lights around the car)

get a cigi volt meter. rm20 only.
engine off - voltage = 12 to 12.6 v [battery voltage ]
engine on - voltage = 13.6 to 14.2 v
alternator ok.

k there are some 'interesting' things that can happen if wiring is an issue, just something i experienced

Start car, cold, 14.1v flat, no issues. Drive around for 10 mins voltage suddenly starts to fluctuate to around 10-12.... it goes utterly nuts 'sometimes' so i assumed my alternator died... i lived with this for like a whole month (i had an electric charger so i was relying on that while figuring it out)
As a last and final test resort i pulled the battery when it started to mess with me, i mean nothing to lose right? cabut battery, car remained on, head lights didnt waiver at all... this was very peculiar. Voltage bouncing anywhere from 7 one min then rising back to 14v after... So yeah probably regulator?
So the last test i did was to pull the voltages directly from the alternator itself, a direct source line, once with both ends, once positive once then negative, in the end, it turns out, one bolt was abit greasy and kept getting loose (its got to be suuuper tight)

loose contact ?