option 1) find a garage closer by to remove it then get the alternator fixed/replaced then go back to the garage and install...
option 2) diy, if u have the tools required, its a viable solution. The internet is full of info
option 3) if u want to take that risk..... charge that battery up before leaving and prepare a spare battery to swap in if the worst case scenario comes through

err guys, anyone know the shop's number? (or any way to contact them)
do i need to remove the alternator before heading over? or do they do keluarkan and pasang as well?

also, i am told, my alternator is a little different, it's a mivec 4 pin alternator, anyone know if they can deal with this alternator as well?

haha thx thx, solved my issue... one of the -ve terminal nuts came loose so the resistance was super high, after bolting it back on 100% good mnow

Klemann C still there

topkek

dia ade banyak $ to beli brand new parts oklah... some ppl like me own cars so old, new parts are difficult or exp to source, this is our best option!

theres an even easier way..... the old school way.

get the car started, then cabut the battery (take the -ve terminal off)..... if the car dies, your alternator aint working or is supplying insufficient power. If it keeps running, its usually alright (do check with a voltmeter to double check, you should be pushing somewhere 13 and up volts)

just incase if u cabut and ter-touch some other body part of the car... remember the entire car is basically a negative terminal

edit: actually the much higher risk is when you are trying to undo the clamps.... takut your spanner terkene a part of the car (be it the frame, some other bolt or even the stabilizer bar).

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Jul 19 2017, 05:33 PM

u dont need to cabut both, cabut one side and the circuit is already broken. at that point. the battery is nolonger part of the circuit.

We are disconnecting the battery to test one and only one thing, that the alternator is supplying charge and its not the case where the alternator is dead and the car is running purely on the battery's charge. On its own the alternator should be able to power the car and charge the battery at the same time. (unless you have some sort of fancy sound system or have added alot of silly power hungry lights around the car)

k there are some 'interesting' things that can happen if wiring is an issue, just something i experienced

Start car, cold, 14.1v flat, no issues. Drive around for 10 mins voltage suddenly starts to fluctuate to around 10-12.... it goes utterly nuts 'sometimes' so i assumed my alternator died... i lived with this for like a whole month (i had an electric charger so i was relying on that while figuring it out)
As a last and final test resort i pulled the battery when it started to mess with me, i mean nothing to lose right? cabut battery, car remained on, head lights didnt waiver at all... this was very peculiar. Voltage bouncing anywhere from 7 one min then rising back to 14v after... So yeah probably regulator?
So the last test i did was to pull the voltages directly from the alternator itself, a direct source line, once with both ends, once positive once then negative, in the end, it turns out, one bolt was abit greasy and kept getting loose (its got to be suuuper tight)

step one.... i think you need a new mechanic.... cause it seems like he has absolutely no clue as to whats happening or how to even troubleshoot. Or he knows exactly whats happening and just wants you to spend on replacing bits untill suddenly the problem is solved. Not like its difficult to diagnose in the 1st place.