most likely your drive shaft CV joints. replacing them aren't that expensive, i've heard it's around rm100-200 per side cv joint
not sure if original proton sells only the joints, or the entire 1 side of drive shaft (easily over 500-600+)
i haven't bother to ask despite facing same issue on turning right (lol i whack too many uturns ) since lately tight on cash haha

and yes, i face that clunking issue from standstill/straights too, that's why i also thinking of just replacing the entire drive shaft with ori proton heh.
no underpowered issue though, however that could be because i just whack the throttle anyways (and that's just overcoming the issue by compensating with more power? who knows)

*RARE CASE* it could be wheel bearing also since i did faced that, turning got sound (however not "tak tak or krok krok", more of a deep hum) and after replacing both side bearings sound gone

personal advise, if possible go with ori proton despite the damn expensive price. after market are just hopeless (coming from experience)

Well I asked yesterday, apparently proton don't sell the joints, have to buy the whole thing. The joints can be purchased from spare part shops or found as used spared in half cut shops.

Money is tight these few months too so this sudde problem really give me headache...can't exactly ignore it as well because worst case scenario would mean the a destroyed joint ad an unmovable car.

Have no issues with wheel bearing (I think) since haven't experieced the usual wheel bearing humming issues...just the usual tyre noise against asphalt.

Advise noted bro...however have to balance cost as well...if it is many times more expensive then I might be forced to go the other way.

Not surprising also la for me, its been almost 14 years, high time to change lol

damn i was hoping they do as the turning noise was very apparent especially when i do hard cornering/during track.
the stand still minor sound wasn't that big of a deal since i didn't face "power loss" that you did, just minor sound (which is still a lot less than the turning sounds)

and yes, you are absolutely right in the worst case scenario because i've heard many stories from my fellow track kaki where they broke their drive shafts during track and they have to toll the car back. and toll fees from sepang, or even worse - other states such as melaka mimc or pasir gudang track isn't exactly cheap as opposed to JUST replacing the drive shaft (now they have to do that, and the towing )

if you cant fork out the money for ori, then after market are WAYYYY cheaper, rm200-300 for 1 side, which netts to like 500-600 for both sides (the longer side will cost slightly more)

14 years for drive shaft is actually damn good mind you. that said, if you go for non-ori, you'll have to set your expectations way lower on how long it may last.

=edit=
oh yea i did mentioned speaking from experience right? i remembered changing both side drive shafts maybe 2-3 years ago? definitely not longer than 4 years? (since both side giving out noises) and yeah, it only lasted me between 2-4 years (iinm 2 la). which is just annoying as hell since they aren't exactly all that cheap too if you consider ori *CAN* last maybe 7-10 years. (yours 14? special case maybe but you get the point)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 20 2013, 09:02 AM

May I know if the condition of the rubber bellows/boots is still intact or they have torn? If torn, grease would have been expelled and water/dirt have gone in.

I have an experience with a previous car (non-Proton) where the rubber boots fail every 3 years or so and this led quickly to the clack-clack sound. If we use after market ones, so long as the rubber boots are ok keeping the grease in and the dirt out, the CV joints should last, isn't it? Or maybe the aftermarket ones have different grades or country of origin?

My Iswara is still using the original CV joints after 11 years and I dread the day they start to fail.

for mine, the rubber boots are still in tact and not torn at all, shafts still pretty f***ed
and i still hate after market ones lol, hopefully the ori proton won't disappoint me

Hmmm thanks for the input! I thought my mechanic friend changed the oil already during service. A bit noob la in these matters though I was also suspecting the gear oil to be the cause. Will go and check with him asap. Only reverse gear though, strangely. Will update once I get it sorted out, that way other people with the same problem can know the solution.

i have same problem with you bro,
but happen to me if i turn to left only and when i open the aircond, this problem very2 pelik... haha

thank bro

hmm, when's the last time you flushed your power steering fluid?

my power steering is this new, because i install below than 1 year,
i already fill the power steering oil, but still same happen

so you're saying you never flushed its fluids? (1 year is just about the right time to do it)

also do not overfill it as that may create too much pressure within the PS unit that could cause premature wear/damage.

Yup never flushed it before.

Thank bro, i think i overfill the fliud. This problem sure about power steering? I think before it is about driveshaft or cv joint.
This case very unique because it happen when turn on aircond only.

I am confused. The discussion is on 3 different systems : power steering fluid, air-con, CV joint ?

reason why i suspect the air cond because the sudden spike of engine load from BOTH the compressor/power steering may result the power steering being under powered and producing grinds/sounds. more so if the fluid is either deteriorated, and/or overfilled (over pressured)

the sound would be like metal grind/squeaks right? instead of the klucking/clanking of "joints" (in drive shaft/joint case - the bearings) beating against each other right?

Just got back from sending my car to the workshop...will be replacing both sides at RM200 each with 35 labour charge each side....no discussion on whether to use aftermarket or proton ori so I suppose original very hard to find.

Also will be changing timing belt, gear oil, service plus alignment and balancing.

Total estimated cost for all the above would be 800++ OMG

Everytime near Raya sure poket lubang...last year was due to replacing compressor haha.

How much did you replaced the compressor last year?

This post has been edited by flex3x: Jul 22 2013, 04:42 PM

replaced compressor with ac service rm730....just picked up my car from workshop...turns out the rear left brake pump leaking so had it changed...total damage was rm870 lol

i have record the sound,
http://picosong.com/REFz/

sounded more like low rpm during slow turning and engine vibrate la

really can't tell from just the sound

u were able to remove ur dashboard

thats awesome