PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V25, Drive Saga Like a Boss!
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 Jul 14 2012, 12:09 PM
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Junior Member
225 posts Joined: Feb 2010 From: Subang Jaya  
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QUOTE(JackX @ Jul 14 2012, 12:02 PM) Hello guys! Please add me in too! Welcome to the Group... Saga FLX 1.3 - Solid White | Manual| Standard I should be collecting my car next week latest Wednesday! hehe  Thanks!   |
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Jul 14 2012, 12:12 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur
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QUOTE(dares @ Jul 14 2012, 11:17 AM) Unker, I tak mention mineral oil pun Ya, but why ebibodi worrying about their fully synthetic oil since a racecar only uses mineral oil  my car now running on full syn 15w-50   aint that funny when everybody discussing about engine oil? Another thing is, I watch BEST MOTORING, they did onwheel dyno to test on engine oil for cars at 50k service to found generally those performance engine oil REDUCE bhp  The key hailat of Tsuchiya San is, engine oil must change frequently regardless of grade/type. What basically harm the engine is the engine itself, more crucial is the oil filter whether it filter debries properly.Added on July 14, 2012, 12:14 pmBy the way, have fun at COD TT USJ. I couldn't make it this time. Hope to organize another casual TT, if get sponsor again probably will prepare some freebies for us too This post has been edited by davidke20: Jul 14 2012, 12:14 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 12:17 PM
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Senior Member
784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jul 14 2012, 12:12 PM) Ya, but why ebibodi worrying about their fully synthetic oil since a racecar only uses mineral oil Agreed. 1000%. aint that funny when everybody discussing about engine oil? Another thing is, I watch BEST MOTORING, they did onwheel dyno to test on engine oil for cars at 50k service to found generally those performance engine oil REDUCE bhp The key hailat of Tsuchiya San is, engine oil must change frequently regardless of grade/type. What basically harm the engine is the engine itself, more crucial is the oil filter whether it filter debries properly.'Red highlighted part is wat's crucial...   Added on July 14, 2012, 12:30 pmps. Me gtg. Time 2prep go out 4lunch! Hv nice lunch, everybody! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 12:30 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 12:31 PM
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Senior Member
3,832 posts Joined: Oct 2011
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QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 14 2012, 10:46 AM) So if we drive "normally", the oil wld probably perform as SAE 30/40 (me really dun kno 4sure which). Do u mean SAE 50 performs the same (same viscosity) as SAE 30 in normal driving?However, if we need to drive more than normal, the oil wld be able to perform as SAE 50 oil to give the lube & protection the moving parts need. |
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Jul 14 2012, 01:30 PM
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Junior Member
408 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: Selangor
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everyone at TT now?
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Jul 14 2012, 01:41 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Feb 2012
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Traffic light manyak selow.
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Jul 14 2012, 01:42 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur
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QUOTE(gogoman86 @ Jul 14 2012, 01:30 PM) everyone at TT now? 1:30 liao, wtf are you still doing here? Facker go TT lar |
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Jul 14 2012, 01:42 PM
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Senior Member
1,187 posts Joined: Apr 2011 From: Nowhere
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QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 14 2012, 10:46 AM) Juz 4sake of discussion & going back 2my hallucination state of mind....  Eg if one uses multigrade SAE 30 eg 10W30 for easier revving engine, one wld probably tend to rev a bit higher than normal, resulting in more internal stress, wear & tear which might not be provided for due2 now higher friction + resulting engine temp? Whereas a higher SAE grade multigrade wld be able to shift upwards to give needed lube & protection in such a situation? Let's juz look back in2 Saga's lube reco history... 2008 (BLMs) to Pre-late 2011 (later FLs) : reco grade = 20W50 Late 2011 to 2012 (FLXs) reco 10W30 AND MOST SCs fill up ALL Sagas = 10W40 Now yu tell me wat's going on...??? ps. AFAIK Saga is FIRST car model where reco EO grade has been officially changed in User Manuals! Also why are SCs NOT following as per reco in official manuals? My hallucination? Proton is catering to complaints by buyers of Sagas over poor FC and a quick immediate solution is to reco 10W30... However, if one chks the chart of suitable EO grades for ALL Sagas in ALL user manuals, ALL those grades ARE SUITABLE!! Haha!  My hallucination stops here...long withdrawal period coming... Added on July 14, 2012, 10:55 am Yup, that statement is true, Bro.  However, we are not dealing with Single (monograde) oils nowadays...but MULTIGRADES...  A SAE 10W50 is NOT an SAE50 grade oil but covers SAE grades from SAE10W up to SAE 50... So if we drive "normally", the oil wld probably perform as SAE 30/40 (me really dun kno 4sure which). However, if we need to drive more than normal, the oil wld be able to perform as SAE 50 oil to give the lube & protection the moving parts need. That is the main advantage of Multigrades. Added on July 14, 2012, 11:04 amps. A multigrade EO eg 10W40 is NOT a 40 grade oil ONLY. It can be in simple terms a 10W, 5W, 0W, 10, 20, 30, 40 grade oil as the engine conditions demand of it. Sincerely hope that is a clearer pic? TQ 4reading this far. Feel me bored yu guys enuf oledi. Hv a nice wkend!!  Bro, I dunno what you been eating for breakfast but it smell like crap from here. Seems like drugs to me.  Multigrade oil doesn't mean it will cover a whole range of grade. SAE30 will have LOWER viscosity at 100 degrees (engine operating temperature) than a SAE50. To said that SAE50 will perform as SAE 30/40 when driving "normally", doesn't happen at the normal operating temperature or whatever temperature. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ This post has been edited by Fubar20: Jul 14 2012, 01:43 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 02:02 PM
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Senior Member
2,732 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malaysia
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QUOTE(r3apers @ Jul 14 2012, 12:09 PM) Welcome to the Group... Thank you  Mine comes with the ugly steel rim though, any suggestion on 16" rim ? Is it ok to use 16" or should I stick to 15"? Thanks everyone! |
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Jul 14 2012, 02:23 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur
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QUOTE(JackX @ Jul 14 2012, 02:02 PM) Thank you The steel rims is not ugly as the 1st version of Plotong GaGa, so be happy whilst you're using it. Mine comes with the ugly steel rim though, any suggestion on 16" rim ? Is it ok to use 16" or should I stick to 15"? Thanks everyone! I myself changed to 195/55R15 3 months ago. I have sangkut mudguard issues, so I added spring buffer to the rear suspension, sagat has been reduced, but occassionally still "queek" when full load(especially kenjilew is in the car). My car is BLM. Ex-TS master Dares recently also upgraded to 195/55R15 2 weeks ago. Since he's FLX SE, suspension is stiffer than BLM/FL, and therefore no sagat issue. However, when dares make a turn, tayar will grind wheel arch. You may utilize 16", just be very careful not to exceed 6.5J(according to Teoh Brother TOYO Tyres Kota Kemuning), or rim/tayar is going to grind either absorber/wheelarch/mudguard. Tyre profile also need to maintain super low for 16". Comfortable will definitely being compensated. So, be advice your maximum practical rim size should stay 15 and or below. That's all I got for rim/tayar on GaGa. Rest of the otai here may add a thing or 2, may be correct me if I'm wrong. Most of them went TT this afternoon. |
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Jul 14 2012, 02:41 PM
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Junior Member
110 posts Joined: Sep 2011
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this morning go to PE to pay the rest of dpayment. SA inform us we can collect the car monday or tuesday
while waiting his manager to issue receipt, we had chit chat. on free give, got steering lock, tng card and tinted vaucher. SA also tell stories on some customers complaining leaking below engine. According to him, this is because each end of petrol hose that thighten to engine and tank is still smoot (lembut). so when put in full tank petrol, the air inside tank will create a high pressure and pushed through this hose, make the pengikat (sorry, dunno pronounce in english) a bit losen and causing leaking. he says when i get the car, dont fill up full tank. let it at least half tank so it won give air heavy pressure in tank. then dont fill full tank after use 1 or 2 week. then the thighten will become harder, thanks to engine heat he also inform that when transfering from factory to sijangkang, there; only small amount of petrol that new car can go untill 1km. this lets the air trapped in tank. just in case they use these small amt of petrol for moving purpose finally, waiting almost over |
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Jul 14 2012, 02:56 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur
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QUOTE(eqmal197 @ Jul 14 2012, 02:41 PM) he also inform that when transfering from factory to sijangkang, there; only small amount of petrol that new car can go untill 1km. this lets the air trapped in tank. just in case they use these small amt of petrol for moving purpose finally, waiting almost over so gan jeong for you I'll be in Sg.Manggis next monday noon, probably will meet your car at Sijangkang 1st For the record, there is slightly more then 5 litres of petrol in tank if they only pump 1 litre, they can only start the car but couldn't drive down from the tramp  even if they don't start the car drive down, later also can't drive back up. Unless those sohigh purposely suck out all the petrol before past to you, then I have nothing much left to say |
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Jul 14 2012, 02:59 PM
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Junior Member
110 posts Joined: Sep 2011
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jul 14 2012, 02:56 PM) so gan jeong for you I'll be in Sg.Manggis next monday noon, probably will meet your car at Sijangkang 1st no.plate belum taruk lagi  |
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Jul 14 2012, 03:23 PM
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Senior Member
541 posts Joined: Jun 2008 From: KL  
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Hi. Fast comment on fsb.
I drive to esso around 100km/hr. Aftr install fsb, i go back and realise i drive around 130km/hr for some reason.. Dunno why.. That all i'm rushng.. Thanks.. |
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Jul 14 2012, 03:39 PM
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Newbie
1 posts Joined: Oct 2010 From: Penang
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Wah the jam was so bad that I've only just got back
QUOTE(mieza @ Jul 14 2012, 03:23 PM) Hi. Fast comment on fsb. Lucky you, the LDP was moving quite slow so I didn't have the chance to test. Can't tell any difference in steering feel, but I can feel that the ride is smoother now, over bumps or is it a placebo effect I drive to esso around 100km/hr. Aftr install fsb, i go back and realise i drive around 130km/hr for some reason.. Dunno why.. That all i'm rushng.. Thanks.. This post has been edited by lhwj: Jul 14 2012, 03:40 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 03:42 PM
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Senior Member
784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 14 2012, 01:42 PM) Bro, I dunno what you been eating for breakfast but it smell like crap from here. Seems like drugs to me. Multigrade oil doesn't mean it will cover a whole range of grade. SAE30 will have LOWER viscosity at 100 degrees (engine operating temperature) than a SAE50. To said that SAE50 will perform as SAE 30/40 when driving "normally", doesn't happen at the normal operating temperature or whatever temperature. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ Tech data aside, a simple layman's understanding... a multigrade oil eg 10W30 (grade yu preferred) is thinner when cold eg 10W and thicker when hot eg 30. And the ideal "hot" is 100 deg C. And all the viscosity changes are ctrl-ed by VI modifiers/improvers. 10W30 oil has less such VI modifiers than in 10W50. Alwaz keep in mind our engines do NOT & kenot keep to "ideal" temp. True? Esp under "harsher" conditions eg stop/start, high revving, faulty thermostats, coolant capabilities, etc.. There's also the shear component value of oils & deterioration of those VI thingey. As such, a 10W50 oil wld offer better lube & protection than a 10W30, under similar higher temp conditions. Correct? Also a 10W30 oil might degrade to 10W20 while similarly a 10w50 might be arnd 10W40? That's why Fully Synthetics came into play...  Important point still : YOU decide...As long as YU happy....not really matter...REALLY! ps. As Bro david so aptly put it : Wat's important is reg OCI & good filter performance. Mineral, FF, FS...as long as w/in reco grades....all ok wan. Agreed? Added on July 14, 2012, 3:52 pmpps. If a Multigrade oil of 10W30 does not function as a MULTIgrade oil, wld it not be more practical & econ to use a MONOgrade SAE30 oil? Added on July 14, 2012, 4:02 pm QUOTE(eqmal197 @ Jul 14 2012, 02:41 PM) this morning go to PE to pay the rest of dpayment. SA inform us we can collect the car monday or tuesday This is FIRST time me hear such an explanation re NEW cars!!! while waiting his manager to issue receipt, we had chit chat. on free give, got steering lock, tng card and tinted vaucher. SA also tell stories on some customers complaining leaking below engine. According to him, this is because each end of petrol hose that thighten to engine and tank is still smoot (lembut). so when put in full tank petrol, the air inside tank will create a high pressure and pushed through this hose, make the pengikat (sorry, dunno pronounce in english) a bit losen and causing leaking. he says when i get the car, dont fill up full tank. let it at least half tank so it won give air heavy pressure in tank. then dont fill full tank after use 1 or 2 week. then the thighten will become harder, thanks to engine heat he also inform that when transfering from factory to sijangkang, there; only small amount of petrol that new car can go untill 1km. this lets the air trapped in tank. just in case they use these small amt of petrol for moving purpose finally, waiting almost over Juz like plumbers talk abt GI water pipes will leak when juz fitted. Gotta wait till joints older then no leak oledi! Haha! Yup, wat plumber meant is he did NOT tighten/fit joint properly AND needs to wait for RUST to seal up joint!!!  In petrol piping case, feel it's clip/hose prob... This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:04 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:06 PM
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Senior Member
3,832 posts Joined: Oct 2011
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QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 14 2012, 03:42 PM) As such, a 10W50 oil wld offer better lube & protection than a 10W30, under similar higher temp conditions. Correct? No doubt 10W50 provides better protection than a 10W30, but wtf 10W50 degrade to 10W40 and then 10W30?? Engine becomes more revvy??Also a 10W30 oil might degrade to 10W20 while similarly a 10w50 might be arnd 10W40? Anyway, u have the right to choose what u wanna believe in |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:16 PM
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Senior Member
1,187 posts Joined: Apr 2011 From: Nowhere
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QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 14 2012, 03:42 PM) Yup, Bro, me probably hallucinating... Tech data aside, a simple layman's understanding... a multigrade oil eg 10W30 (grade yu preferred) is thinner when cold eg 10W and thicker when hot eg 30. And the ideal "hot" is 100 deg C. And all the viscosity changes are ctrl-ed by VI modifiers/improvers. 10W30 oil has less such VI modifiers than in 10W50. Alwaz keep in mind our engines do NOT & kenot keep to "ideal" temp. True? Esp under "harsher" conditions eg stop/start, high revving, faulty thermostats, coolant capabilities, etc.. There's also the shear component value of oils & deterioration of those VI thingey. As such, a 10W50 oil wld offer better lube & protection than a 10W30, under similar higher temp conditions. Correct? Also a 10W30 oil might degrade to 10W20 while similarly a 10w50 might be arnd 10W40? That's why Fully Synthetics came into play... Important point still : YOU decide...As long as YU happy....not really matter...REALLY! ps. As Bro david so aptly put it : Wat's important is reg OCI & good filter performance. Mineral, FF, FS...as long as w/in reco grades....all ok wan. Agreed?  Another oil myth and not relevant for new engine.Oil Myths Nuff said.  |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:17 PM
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Senior Member
784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(poweredbydiscuz @ Jul 14 2012, 04:06 PM) No doubt 10W50 provides better protection than a 10W30, but wtf 10W50 degrade to 10W40 and then 10W30?? Engine becomes more revvy?? There's definitely degradation of oil after period of use, Bro... Anyway, u have the right to choose what u wanna believe in  Engine does not become more revvy due2 breakdown of oil molecules & other contaminants ie byproducts during use. And yup, that also is everyone's right...to believe or otherwise... ps. Must end this hallucinatory session...not intend 2step on any toes here. This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:21 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:18 PM
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Senior Member
1,187 posts Joined: Apr 2011 From: Nowhere
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QUOTE(poweredbydiscuz @ Jul 14 2012, 04:06 PM) No doubt 10W50 provides better protection than a 10W30, but wtf 10W50 degrade to 10W40 and then 10W30?? Engine becomes more revvy?? Anyway, u have the right to choose what u wanna believe in So where does sludge comes from? |
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