Bro Z1, Some of the point is totally legit, for example overall balancing of the vehicle. However, suspension came last because the suspension were tuned based on the chassis/weight/purpose. So, chassis flex for factory fresh vehicle is unavoidable. Factory always design vehicle WITHOUT strut bar, the only reason I can think of is the PURPOSE. Why would we put a piece of racing equipment on a road use car? Further that, why would I put a stick across the engine bay that kacau me when I need to service my engine? Last but not least, metal is getting expansive, for that matter no way I'm going to add on weight to the damn car. I've used 2 points struts on few of my cars(even 1 of my Kancil). The only difference I can feel is slightly oversteer. However, you should try the 4 point bar by 3MAX. It just simply feel different. I dare not to say how good it is, but it gives you room to adjust when you're losing control. With this fact alone, I'd say this is a good buy. Never thought that extra 2 point made huge difference. I drove EF, EG2, EK4, EK9, EP3, FD before. The suspensions are really good and well tune. The power steering really sucks, damn light and numb. What does it have to do with chassis flex? The answer is no. Chassis flex will produce the BENT between the strut towers, thus limit travel distance of the shock absorbers. You can put the hardest spring+absorber on your ride, that doesn't mean you don't have chassis flex. Just be extra careful when you test your 1st speeding corner I dont know the theory, but according to your description almost fit everything on my BLM. Anyway, please refer below photo shots taken earlier: Whilst waiting for Marhaihai at ESSO, spotted another TRD Our car rear seats took off, all I can see that links both side, besides of the roof and base, there is a piece of black color PVC board & some steel plate on the rear speaker panel holding between! I understand Savvy's chair is foldable, therefore that part is made of "AIR" so it can be fold back to put luggage. I think Plotong totally omitted the fact that we need to keep 50 durians whist keeping the passenger's ass safe No drilling required, everything plug & play This is what I mean, there is only a piece of PVC board holding it. No it does not eat up boot space. However, it's now impossible to mount the amplifier there anymore... unless you use cable tie to hang it on the strut bar. Later can not tahan, installed the FSB immediately. FSB+RSB delivered more than expected, I was overwhelmed and unable to adapt for the time being. If you ask me whether this worthy, I can tell you I decided NOT to mod my suspension anymore. These stuff works pretty well with the standard shocks already. As of the rear stabilizer, I can live without it as long as I don't go attack corner like dares, think I can keep my rear tyres on the floor with no issue.

---

Added on July 7, 2012, 1:24 am Now I can answer your questions with those photos. 1) Please expect nothing, placebo effect will give you more chemical 2) Only if manufacturer came up with some proper design, not those "BRANDED" stabilizers that BOLT a few nuts at both coil spring tapak and call it stabilizer. What I want is something like this: instead of.. ahem! This 3) You're right, what was I thinking. Negotiate less but turn more, but only take into account when shocks are having extreme forces(when chassis flex), otherwise you'll feel exactly the same. More obvious when you're those kind of bugger who like to go over speed bump by senget. The left right sway has been totally eliminated(could be my RSB). 4) I should have listen to Marhaihai to take the FSB 1st, few weeks later to install the RSB. Now I have absolutely no idea whether the FSB made such difference or the RSB? Or may be it only happen when both are installed.