Some result from provided link above

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil

The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K


And this is what I get from this link http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1...nventional-oils

Service Life
A popular topic concerning the difference between mineral oils and synthetic lubricants is service life. Synthetic lubricants as a class don't show their age, particularly at high temperatures, and have a longer service life. [B]Often, the change interval is several times longer for synthetics at identical operating temperatures; however, the exact number depends on operating conditions, the additives and the specific synthetic used.

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI). This indicates synthetic lubricants can be used at lower viscosity grades and lower temperatures. When this is the case, the gap between the service lives of minerals and synthetics significantly increases.

Related to the oil change interval is the issue of product loss through evaporation and disposal. Both sludge and residue form more readily with mineral oil products. Evaporative losses are lower for synthetics due to the lack of lighter hydrocarbon structures. Disposal is more costly with some synthetics, but it is nowhere near enough to compensate for change-out intervals that are three to five times more frequent.

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 07:43 PM

10k vs 5k? easy... at 5k whatever oil you are using.. check the dipstick.... then u need to decide lah.. continue or change..

with my vios, i change at 10k all the way and toyota neither promotes nor discourages this. i know because if i dont tell them to put in fully they sometimes put in semi. and after using semi for 10k i believe TMO fully synthetic is better for 10k interval as i had some deterioration in car performance when using their semi for 10k.. so i believe 5k or 10k depends on too many variables including how u drive and maybe also the oil being used.

p/s: my mechanic recommends 8k for TMO fully btw ahahah

I think people / mechanic suggests based on experience. So far the generic rule - 5k mineral, 7k semi, 10k full-synt.

on my waja, i'm using Shell Semi blue bottle, and this rule does apply. on normal driving, it clock 7.5l/100km. now I just missed last oil change at 7k, FC had worsened 8.9l/100.

not sure how exora will fair but, i'll stick to the general rule, eventhough there's no article/wiki/testing/sirim suggesting this.

hi guys

got my car just now

wanna ask. after switch off engine, got the wwwrrrrr.... sound for about 3 min then only shut off

the SA said the fan still running to cool the engine

normal kah?

Yes, Synthetic BASE OIL last longer than Mineral BASE OIL. Nobody dispute that.

But Synthetic ENGINE OIL does not last longer than Mineral ENGINE OIL. Not the same thing if you think about it more carefully. This is where many people got mislead thinking BASE OIL and ENGINE OIL are the same. They are NOT!

ENGINE OIL contains:
1. Base oil. Synthetic last longer & more stable and more slippery etc than Mineral.
2. Additives. The additives in BOTH Synthetic ENGINE oil and Mineral ENGINE OIL are the same and need to be changed AT THE SAME TIME.

To recap, the reason why you need to change engine oil is because ADDITIVES had been depleted, not because Base Oil has gone bad. Read the link I gave you earlier.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 21 2012, 08:30 PM

Actually I don't want to lock in a rat hole with you. Because you are right base on your understanding.

Honestly I becoming more confuse with your WORD EQUATION. It is either you really confuse, or you try to confuse others by playing with the WORD or you are right and I'm confuse

Anyway we are Exora bold owners .... rather than debating on something that may put us apart let focus on Exora related. We can still debate but pls don't be too strong unless we are really sure of that. I'm not the expert on the o engine oil technology but my knowledge build on my understanding after reading the original article from the WEB (including from the link in your post) my understanding from the article is 180' different from yours. So its not about the article but the way we understand the article

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 21 2012, 10:41 PM

start to accept the truth and stop being childish. Just because I mentioned about synthetic and all the facts presented obviously goes the opposite of your misconceptions, then you just conclude I am a synthetic oil salesman trying to make a quick buck? Just because one has knowledge in one field doesn't mean that field is his career. As Confucius said "I hear and I forget. I read and I remember. I do and I understand".

This whole debate is getting pointless. My act of caring and sharing thought isn't appreciated but instead get accused of spreading lies. So much for a community which gathers to share info. You just continue use your Mach 5 la. Only time will prove who is right and wrong from now onwards.

Yes my man, its normal CFE behavior...

BTW enjoy your new ride.... EB CFE rocks

PS, I've got back my car after SC replaced the OWV and OCV and now my engine feels smoother than before, Today morning, no more KOKOK sound when i cold start my engine.. YAY

good for u shah...!! enjoy the newly refurbished engine hehehe

berapa lama sadai kat workshop? 3 days?

yeah, irritating at first but now got used to it btw what color is yours?

Good to hear that .... hopefully it the issue gone for good for you to really enjoy the ride.



Congratulation on your new ride....

I would love to debate on which part of that article makes us interpret it differently. Would be easier if you can cut&paste and quote.

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Added on June 22, 2012, 6:38 amNo, you are not if you are spreading untruth. To me, saying "Synthetic Engine Oil can last 10K and Mineral Engine Oil can last 5K" is similar to saying "The earth is flat". That is a disservice and misleading others. I basically hate misinformation.

If these quotes from a major oil company Valvoline and a major manufacturer Volvo doesn't convince you, I don't know what does. Please read..

Volvoline oil manufacturer: "To offset the higher cost of synthetic oil, some of the oil companies claim you can run the oil longer between changes. They say you do not have to change the oil every 3,000 miles. Valvoline does not make that claim. McClanahan says, "The additives in synthetics are superior but they still break down at the same rate and you need to replenish them often. We are unaware of any additive package that lasts longer than what the manufacturer recommends. Those 10,000-mile claims are ludicrous."


Volvo engine manufacturer Synthetic oils do not allow further extension of oil drain intervals. It is the contamination rate, i.e., soot, and the depletion of additives, rather than base oil quality that determines the useful engine oil life and therefore the oil change intervals.

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html
http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonlyres/F5ACF6EC...omponentsVT.pdf

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 22 2012, 06:47 AM

Thanks for invitation but I'm not interested to lock in debate at this moment.... I would rather be in discussion, sharing and collaboration.... cheers.

May be a little bit of conclusion from me related to Syn Vs Mineral.... but I try to be nutral since I'm not the expert so I won't make any stand for others to follow.



Even the expert admitted that the argument about which is better is ........ so who am I to debate this matters with you.

To take the best and be on the save side (but of course an expensive proposal), use fully synt and change it every 5k km .

This post has been edited by klate: Jun 22 2012, 08:49 AM

some update. my eb finally got a problem today.
the reverse camera failed, after just 1 month.
oredi called sc, tomoro will sent for check

tx bro. at first i was scared got some engine problem and will blow up . haha

mine is silver bro and complaining directly to i-care really helps. even the i-care person called me on my chassis allocation before my SA does . hehe

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Added on June 22, 2012, 9:36 amtx fro

This post has been edited by brotan: Jun 22 2012, 09:36 AM

To share my 1st experience (not review lah, not car expert) of my EB after driving for a short while (only from showroom to my home + home to office. total i think about 20 min)

All I can say is the ride is smooth and so far no big complain. Reverse camera works well. Thumbs up for Proton

Just 1 complain (not sure this is normal or not). would appreciate your comment

when reversing, it seems not responsive at first when pedal is pressed. feel like need to press a bit harder compare to moving forward. any idea?


All in all, satisfied with my ride (so far )

btw, regarding the engine knocking sound complained by other forumer, I did try to pay attention on this but I didn't notice any so far. maybe still new or proton fixed it

also regarding loud engine sound, i think it is quite ok. got the "whistling" type of sound when driving. i don't find it annoying, quite pleasant anyway. but i will still put the firewall lah (already bought it)

P.S. I haven't have a chance to drive more than 80km/h yet. will test it tomorrow

Good to know that you are satisfied with your EB To be frank i only have the issue of throttle response when the car start to move forward. Its kinda jerking at first but i don't think its a big issue anyway as all i do is apply the proper pressure on the pedal so voila, you are on the move.

Once in a while when you are stuck in a congested road, you can feel the car jerking a bit but i guess its normal
The excitement starts when the rpm shifted to 2000 and above, have a try (its addictive )

No jerking. Just reluctant to move for 1/2 or 1 second or so then everything OK. Even if you step on the pedal.

the 2000rpm when turbo kicks in? haha

haven't got a chance to try becuz short distance ride so far. will try tomorrow going back my mum place (PJ -> Cheras)