you dont,,,, what speakers ging

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 6 2013, 03:58 PM

most reputable HUs only support up to 50w rms though, so anything more, your mid/midbass won't sound as good as it doesn't have enough power to drive it

however if you're not too particular on the bass, then no, you don't need an amp

Thanks for the feedback. Its a lousy stock HU. Am not really into ICE, prefer to hear the engine sound or some relaxing music like Kitaro at volume 9.
Others may ride in my car so its more of their listening pleasure.
As long as it could give slightly better sound than stock speaker, I am okay. Else, I could just get a 4c pre-amp(amp? I don't fancy big woofer) and DIY, right?

malutapimau
2x 6.5" German Maestro component (50w/ 165w max) for rear and 2x 6.5" Sound Stream component (80w) for front. I could opt to move the stock rear to front door though.

dont get preamps, especially when they are cheap. get actual 2 channel (or 4 channel if you think you'll expand to subwoofers or want to power the stock speakers as well)

+1

Samurai X really knows what he wants,,,,

------

most reputable HUs 50w are peak power though, rms power ~18w,,,, ive never seen 14v op amps produce 50w rms,,,,,,
18w good enough to power midbass (i used to power 8ohm 7in midbass with a tripath ta2024 portable amp in car with decent output)

the real turned off is the distortion level
@ 18w/HU rms power, THD will be >10%,,,,,,'audiophile' <1% THD power is ~ 7w, high because the opamps is internally bridged,

it isnt about will the power enough, but will it has good sq-------

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 7 2013, 10:09 AM

Gonna start to DIY, probably this weekend. Don't even know if the German Maestro component is good but I am content with anything better than the stock speaker..lol.

all d besh,,,,,,,do share some pix of your diy weekend
stock speakers usually have punchier midbass, but lacks details,and fragile surrounds
not that bad actually, can use as rearfills w/ whizzer cones removed,

but some newer cars stock system really sounds better than 2-3k ice,its a good progression

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 8 2013, 01:20 AM

Can do nothing at the moment as one of the rear seat lock is jammed. Can't even unlocked the seat to open up the rear cover.

oh too bad
im taking out the cabin carpet, reroute the wiring,re-angle underseat amps while clean all cockroaches underneath,,,,,
a pro installer probly takes 1-2hrs but because its a diy job (plus ive OCD) ill need 10hrs
all cables will be neatly labeled ala competition car w/ brady markers i found at site hehe

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 8 2013, 09:38 AM

Already buy slightly better audio cable than the stock one. Too bad can't do anything because of the seat hook locked.
Not sure if any shop can unlocked it.

first of all i hope the sifu-sifu s here forgive me for this noobish question...2 questions that is....

1.an amplifier's purpose is to amplify the signal from the HU to the speakers right....but does the amplifiers from different brands have different functions??

2. assuming the speakers and HU are the same in what ways would a premium brand amplifier would compare with a entry level one...assuming also that the rms watt out put for all channels are the same for the said two amps....

Yes. Mainly the output will sound different. That's why some people like this brand, some other like that brand.

Your question number 2 is like comparing car brand. Proton say their max speed is 300KM/h, Ferrari also say the same .... which one would you believe?

+1
genius analogy,are you somehow a profesor in real life mwc?

@sivas9
the main difference between amps is the power supply/ps,,,,,,,,

1. This is debatable. Some say (I do) that different amps have different characteristics and sound, whilst some will challenge you with USD10,000 to compare two amps side by side with the same power and output and see if you're able to identify which is which.

Then there's the different types of amps. Class D being the most efficient (and personally I find these the most 'blunt' sounding), Class AB (my favorite), Class A etc.. each with their own characteristics.

2. Most amps overrate their power claims. There's only a handful of brands out there that underrate their power. The old Orion HCCA for example were severely underrated. Gila powerful amps. Then there's TRU and Helix A-series amps, all underrated (cuz measured at 12V). Mainstream brands measure their amps at 14.4V and rarely do you get a constant 14.4V in your car so you rarely ever hit the max measured powered for those amps. And then there's the sound. I've done a comparison side by side with exactly the same gear (table top tester, not in car) with just the amps being compared. An a/d/s/ vs the Helix A2. The A2 won hands down in terms of clarity and for some reason more instruments were 'visible' and the highs were more pronounced. That's not saying a/d/s/ is no good, just that compared side by side in the exact conditions, the much more expensive Helix A2 was better.

But you will occassionally come across a gem of a 'normal' brand that'll perform as good as (if not better) the premium branded amps.

amp has 3 main section internally
1. power supply section - regulated or unregulated design
2. amplification stage and output stage
- for class ab some has zero negative feedback design but very few n etc..
as for output stage some even has an output trans eliminating the passive circuitry for cleaner output and better impedance matching
3. preamp section - vital part to any given system.
ex. some amps are hybrid design, meaning tube stage at pre n solid state at amp stage

but to me the biggest diff is the upper stream of the system

This post has been edited by carcrazy: Jun 14 2013, 11:44 PM

Carcrazy,what do you think of car amp ps in general?
Over the years ive listen to many good sq amps only spoiled by unreliable/noisy ps/no protection functions/ turnon-off thump/click noise/ unmatched tiny reserve power etc,,,,
isit really hard to build a good 12v smps?

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 15 2013, 08:41 AM

Carcrazy,what do you think of car amp ps in general?
they are ok..the DC source is from the alternator. so in general its even cleaner source than home AC 240V
Over the years ive listen to many good sq amps only spoiled by unreliable/noisy ps/no protection functions/ turnon-off thump/click noise/ unmatched tiny reserve power etc,,,,
doesnt really happen unless u have a faulty hardware(used item-due to age)) or wiring issues
isit really hard to build a good 12v smps?
not as simple as it looks..but if u have enuf resources($$$), anything is possible.

hello ICE masters, hope i can get some feedback on which HU to get.

- My ride: civic fd2
- Prefers SQ/SPL/SQL: SQL
- File format/medium used for my source: MP3, Radio, cv/dvd
- Music genre: pop, rock, hip hop, classical
- Budget: hopefully not above 2k >.<
- Setup type preferences: Just HU for now.
- Other requirements (if any): USB, iphone/samsung connectivity, steering controls. no need GPS/navigation. reverse cam will be nice.

thanks for the info man.....epic analogy....

@izso
thanks for the information....really explains a lot.....

This post has been edited by sivas9: Jun 17 2013, 11:34 PM