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Need recommendation/advice for CarAudio system V2, Please use this thread (omg v1 Aug 2005)
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carcrazy
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Apr 10 2012, 12:46 AM
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Getting Started

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QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Apr 9 2012, 11:25 PM) Have you listen to it yourself before? You should. I have tested Focal Access 165A1 and the 7" Eton that I am helping my friend to sell. Never try V30. Eton sound more clearer, more clarify. Eton adventure is in the region of rm2.5k- rm3.8k while the focal access u tested is only rm900. So its not a proper comparison.. Eton adv can sound good to most people but it can sound bright.. Their previous flagship model was eton discovery.comes wif flat copper foil inductor and mundorf caps...nice This post has been edited by carcrazy: Apr 10 2012, 02:01 AM
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carcrazy
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Apr 13 2012, 09:57 AM
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Nice..how's the sound like
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carcrazy
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Apr 14 2012, 05:48 PM
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I did a comparison, whic is better in terms of dampening effect
Stp silver vs dynamat extreme Verdict- dyn extr
Stp gold vs dynamat extreme Verdict- stp gold
Stp bomb vs dynamat extreme verdict- definitely stp bomb
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carcrazy
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Apr 30 2012, 04:55 PM
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RM4K - entry level (high-end category) hehe...
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carcrazy
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May 9 2012, 11:23 AM
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Aftermarket speakers makes a big diff compared to stock
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carcrazy
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Jul 18 2012, 11:55 AM
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 18 2012, 11:31 AM) boston acoustics from USA (boston mah lol) AFAIK, however yes, majority of their items made in china, unless you're having their flagship/top of the line, then supposedly handcrafted at USA la lol boston is made in malaysia. WKH is the official distributor but no longer.
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carcrazy
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Aug 29 2012, 08:58 PM
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best to use all the budget on upgrading hu. no point diluting the investment into hu n amp. end up everything neither here nor there. good hu + spent many hours on tweaking/tuning = sure satisfying results..cant go wrong
6months or a year later- upgrade amp n etc.. in stages
to achieve 'audio nirvana', its a journey. have fun along the way n enjoy the ride
note- swift has a good platform for building car hifi
This post has been edited by carcrazy: Aug 29 2012, 09:00 PM
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carcrazy
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Sep 4 2012, 05:33 PM
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he is running a semi active bi-amp setup. 2ch to drive tweeter via a simple 6db xover with attenuation(cap n resistor) 2ch to drive mid via either amp xover or HU proc(not sure as u didnt state)
most important the 2ch driving the mid must have a bandpass filter(HP & LP filter). generally around 70Hz(HP) - 2500Hz(LP) if ur running juz LP and full range throughout without HP filter, then ur drivers will usually damage in the long run.
pro's without having a HP on mids - midbass damn keng!!(one of the way to cheat saying this mids is damn keng!!..hehe)
This post has been edited by carcrazy: Sep 4 2012, 06:01 PM
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carcrazy
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Sep 5 2012, 09:17 PM
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QUOTE(peaceboy97 @ Sep 5 2012, 05:44 PM) Yeah,, Got it but abit bluff on the HU "Proc" means what.? My HU is Kenwood U453 arr,, cheap 1. and the Amp have Hp & LP as well on both channel. proc = processor some HU built with basic proc functions, but premium models have much more functions make sure the HP n LP can be turn on at the same time. cause some built in can only select either one filter. so end up its not a bandpass
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carcrazy
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Sep 20 2012, 10:43 AM
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utopia be 3way is nice. not too mention the beautiful craft on their passive network which worth rm4k+ (optional) its refined sounding with all the good merits. playing vocal cd is excellent. to me the only thing was it sounded a bit thin and cant play well on hip hop or other music genre
alpine pdx amp are based on class D topology. for decades class D is known to have high efficiency 90%. they look good on data specs but listening test is another issue. but lately home hifi reputable manufacturer like audio research is said to have a new lineup based on class D which can sound as good as their class AB with added bonus of higher power rating due to class D topology. for car audio, yet to have any manufacturer dare to claim their class D amp is as good as classAB.
overall class D amp will alwiz give u high power rating without costing due to its nature
This post has been edited by carcrazy: Sep 20 2012, 05:39 PM
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carcrazy
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Nov 8 2012, 12:02 AM
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rear-field speakers are actually a good idea. mostly overlook by the majority n etc... rear-field(in stereo) could help the frontstage a lot its a very confusing statement above as most of us r taught that the rears will ONLY DISTURB the frontstage
This post has been edited by carcrazy: Nov 8 2012, 12:18 AM
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carcrazy
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Jan 7 2013, 02:20 PM
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why tuning active using proc can be headache. everything is at the touch of the button + memory preset. no need to crawl under the seat or etc. tuning all done in a cosy air cond environment. u can have multiple preset tuning to try eventually will be ther.
its fun. owner can tweak it n installer can tweak too. no good can alwiz revert to previous settings. this is the best way to learn.
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carcrazy
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Jan 22 2013, 12:34 AM
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QUOTE(ezmeer94 @ Jan 22 2013, 12:25 AM) more input on active vs passive passive sounds more analog? wats ur definition or analog
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carcrazy
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Jan 25 2013, 06:07 PM
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QUOTE(Pvd @ Jan 25 2013, 04:55 PM) morel tempo passive is really simple..haha [attachmentid=3280764] 6db xover..excellent phase integration
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carcrazy
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Jan 25 2013, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE(izso @ Jan 25 2013, 04:19 PM) If you're gonna talk about OEM passives, the most expensive passives you can find are.... OEM. Meaning it's ultimately still designed with cost and pricing in mind. If you're talking about custom made passives or modified passives, then you're gonna give active setups a run for their money. People always complain that Dynaudios are hard to run and need massive power. It's not entirely true, with the original passive you'll need big power (preferably). I had my passives modified with a whole lot of Mundorf stuff and an amp with just 100w RMS is more than enough to make it sing quite well. But the Mundorf parts kinda changed the characteristics of the speakers and wasn't quite what I wanted so I'm not using them anymore. So basically if you fiddle around with the hundreds of audio-quality caps, resisters and whatever, you might actually get a pretty interesting sound passive setup. The last time I saw an extreme custom passive, it was the size of a Alpine PDX amp. Massively huge and had so many huge expensive caps on it. One of the caps costs RM450 to buy per piece! Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to hear this expensive passive but point is you can do a lot with passives if you have the patience to learn and fiddle around with the different brands. u mean this izso
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carcrazy
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Jan 25 2013, 06:28 PM
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 25 2013, 06:25 PM) even my cheapo boston S60 passive looks more complicated. however having much smaller components/caps inside this is minimalist approach
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carcrazy
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Jun 14 2013, 11:42 PM
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amp has 3 main section internally 1. power supply section - regulated or unregulated design 2. amplification stage and output stage - for class ab some has zero negative feedback design but very few n etc.. as for output stage some even has an output trans eliminating the passive circuitry for cleaner output and better impedance matching 3. preamp section - vital part to any given system. ex. some amps are hybrid design, meaning tube stage at pre n solid state at amp stage
but to me the biggest diff is the upper stream of the system
This post has been edited by carcrazy: Jun 14 2013, 11:44 PM
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carcrazy
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Jun 15 2013, 06:28 PM
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Carcrazy,what do you think of car amp ps in general? they are ok..the DC source is from the alternator. so in general its even cleaner source than home AC 240V Over the years ive listen to many good sq amps only spoiled by unreliable/noisy ps/no protection functions/ turnon-off thump/click noise/ unmatched tiny reserve power etc,,,, doesnt really happen unless u have a faulty hardware(used item-due to age)) or wiring issues isit really hard to build a good 12v smps? not as simple as it looks..but if u have enuf resources($$$), anything is possible.
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