means youve lost the fader function, we need fader control for tuning purpose----

we dont need a preamp, because we alreday have one---the HU is a preamp, any electronics that before amp/got volume control is a PRE-amp

i always read this article just to remind me the root of this hobby

---happiness----

"Perhaps the most unusual part of Jeff's system is his speaker placement. I have only one set of speakers in the car because I did not want to disturb the interior."

"I have the tweeters up front in the dash and the woofers in the rear deck."

"Several installers said it couldn't be done this way without loss in sound quality, but this is what I wanted, and I am happy with the sound."

conclusion----ice is bout pleasing our ears/make us smiles not pleasing others

i fancy a dedicated midbass sealed enclosure
like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_sSEWyX00g&feature=related

can get rid of ratting issue completely

which bazooka? if you meant its active tubes theres infinity basslink /basslink-x to consider bout the same price,


This post has been edited by malutapimau: Oct 8 2012, 12:25 AM

which of the models has more eqealizer / crossover setting?

go for 12ga because it offers more cable length buffer

http://www.audioholics.com/education/cable...ker-cable-gauge

if youre on a budget, id recommend 12ga twisted pair pure copper speaker cable from reliable local brand like fajar/mitti/ yogawa
people regularly use them for studio/pro audio
~rm2.50/metre

@ NOX

standard cable is still ok, youre using stock speaker cables?
if it aint broke dont fix it
those cables available at jln pasar

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Nov 14 2012, 10:23 AM

for radio <300 id recommend blaupunkt miami100usb
it has aux in, usb, even rds funtion(other radio that has RDS usually cost ~rm500)
it also has 2 rca preout but need to get a separate C1 connector

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Nov 23 2012, 11:28 AM

viva console is for 1DIN hu, and myvi radio isnt DIN size,,,,,

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 3 2013, 09:24 PM

unless, you've been bitten by the bug, which no more common sense can cure/save you hehe

since you concern about boot space, id recommend portable player + earbuds

I don't chase sq anymore in car these days, I just use portable media player and earbuds if want to listen to serious musics, no road/wind noise, no more bass drowned by tyre roars when driving >60kmh, no rattling noise,,,,, just me and audionirvana two become one
if i want to listen to radio/traffic I can use the HU, which also has aux/line in, so I can plug the portable player into it when im driving with buddies/families,,,,,,,,,

some portable player can play lossless audio like flac, with 40GB it can store ~10 flac albums,,, syiok

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 4 2013, 10:38 AM

earbuds aint full isolated like iem, theyre open headphones,,,,ill probly more alert to my surroundings than another buddy listening to his ice, because while he needs to crank the volume up to enjoy music, I don't
p/s:im listening with earbuds while typing this, and I can still hear the whispering aircond blows

using headphones are normal for ice, we've seen cars in mags/autoshow with a full blown multimedia ice with them, multi source/inputs, multi outputs,,monitors,
etc,,,,so-----

we might have different equipment/approach, but as long as we enjoy listening while driving, its still ice right

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 4 2013, 12:24 PM

you dont,,,, what speakers ging

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 6 2013, 03:58 PM

+1

Samurai X really knows what he wants,,,,

------

most reputable HUs 50w are peak power though, rms power ~18w,,,, ive never seen 14v op amps produce 50w rms,,,,,,
18w good enough to power midbass (i used to power 8ohm 7in midbass with a tripath ta2024 portable amp in car with decent output)

the real turned off is the distortion level
@ 18w/HU rms power, THD will be >10%,,,,,,'audiophile' <1% THD power is ~ 7w, high because the opamps is internally bridged,

it isnt about will the power enough, but will it has good sq-------

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 7 2013, 10:09 AM

all d besh,,,,,,,do share some pix of your diy weekend
stock speakers usually have punchier midbass, but lacks details,and fragile surrounds
not that bad actually, can use as rearfills w/ whizzer cones removed,

but some newer cars stock system really sounds better than 2-3k ice,its a good progression

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 8 2013, 01:20 AM

oh too bad
im taking out the cabin carpet, reroute the wiring,re-angle underseat amps while clean all cockroaches underneath,,,,,
a pro installer probly takes 1-2hrs but because its a diy job (plus ive OCD) ill need 10hrs
all cables will be neatly labeled ala competition car w/ brady markers i found at site hehe

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 8 2013, 09:38 AM

+1
genius analogy,are you somehow a profesor in real life mwc?

@sivas9
the main difference between amps is the power supply/ps,,,,,,,,

Carcrazy,what do you think of car amp ps in general?
Over the years ive listen to many good sq amps only spoiled by unreliable/noisy ps/no protection functions/ turnon-off thump/click noise/ unmatched tiny reserve power etc,,,,
isit really hard to build a good 12v smps?

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Jun 15 2013, 08:41 AM

madness8878, whats the cause of damaged rear speakers? isit torn rubber surrounds?

offtheshelves sub-1k comps aint perfect, they excel in few parts while suck in others
we set our preference then listen/buy them
whats your top priority? midbass extension?midrange sweetness?HF clarity? low distortion? high spl?

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Aug 19 2013, 03:50 PM