deric, pls dun get us wrong. i think most of us find it really hard to believe you've actually got a 4ft @ 25c and using a fan only. can u take a full shot of your tank?

btw, i'm sure u tried to move the probe around and get reading from different location on the tank? maybe your fan is cooling one part of the aquarium only. having said that, i believe the temp probe should be accurate enough.

peace bro!

good gadget!

deric's design got the slot that clings onto the side glass. so its safe to say it will not fall into the water unless a very big knock on it.

DIY fan seems very neat too and energy saving

240v fan if ac type, no need adapter. Can straight plug into socket. Always ask the seller if u have any doubts. Remember, electricity and water dun mix...

Safe aquascaping!

malformed : usually AC got a range. 220v to 240v is ok to use.

lighting up at night will not be advisable coz ur plants only photosynthesis during day time... night time, they use up the oxygen in ur tank....

having said that, i wonder how plants tell time of the day... hmmm

condensation is meant to bring the heat away from the tank. you're just introducing it back to the water to make it warmer... my thought only...

covering the tank will make the tank warmer as the warm air is trapped inside the aquarium. this is what i believe is happening to my covered aquarium. i opened up the hood covers so that condensation will not happen... but i still loosing water at a slower rate of 2-3 liters per week. temp around 28-29c no fan and a 4ft tank.

re-scape = more business for LFS and sellers (points to weijie)... *cabutz*

but i second opinions of weijie about the nutrient reduction from the ADA soil overtime. you might be able to extend the life of the soil by adding multi or iron capsules. there are sellers in this forum (points to weijie) that gives u good service n pricing too.

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Added on May 9, 2012, 1:29 pmRm35 for a digital timer that won't go off even after power-outage. interested? haha...

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 9 2012, 01:29 PM

my local hardware shop. oh.. let me correct to say its battery charged... it will still go off but in a very very long time la.. haha...

calm ur horses guys...

battery when no power

a/c current when got power

so yes, it will use direct current when there is power, only when cutoff it will switch to battery.

sorry for the confusion caused.

too hot i think...

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Added on May 9, 2012, 3:42 pmspeaking of which, anyone here bought the airpump with back up battery? do we really need it?

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 9 2012, 03:42 PM

i mean when u cover the lights... it cause the tube to heat up. haven seen those aquazonic before so i'm not sure if the heat can be spread out easy?

at least no need to set the time again...

nice layout! btw, does anyone got the manual for CL-450 chiller and known problems? gonna have a look at a 2nd hand model this weekend. using it to chill about 250 liters of water from 29c to 25/26c. the previous owner used for 2years liao + saltwater system.

pls advise.

i tried to search online but little info given.

thanks.

ok thanks. will check the inlet and outlet to look for the signs of trouble.

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Added on May 10, 2012, 3:04 pm

ADA = I like... where is the like button?

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 10 2012, 03:04 PM

wah... u guys ah... so bloody... *sweat*

[quote=LuQEE,May 11 2012, 08:29 AM]
hey, 60+ replies in Planted Aquarium thread, you guys really spams alot
btw, just got back, some stuffs i realised when i reached home yesterday.

Failed Artificial Hacthing for Puntius Titteya - they died!!


its not easy eh? I manage to go until my angelfish spawns are 2-3 weeks and free swimming but they die due to water conditions.

you can put in the blue tint medication mthyl blue i think is the name so that its water is bacteria free and then pump in some air to ensure water movement.

really hard to actually spawn those fishes...

+1 but need to know what type of LED being used. if its those SMSD or chip type, its not going to be good or bright enough... 6500K and above light source is the minimum consideration. i have read that estimation is 1W LED = 10W bulb (applies to CREE / bridgelux high powered LED)... something like tat...

sifus here would be able to give you better ideas.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 11 2012, 01:21 PM

mhaha... not that little lo... but like whats said earlier, LED really cannot use WPG rule... btw, most of the CREE LEd is 3W type right?, so could be bright enough for this type of application.... hehe..

btw, can i know how much is those replacement 4ft T5HO lights?

calvin : what lights are u using there? 4ft T5Ho aquazonic light?

dun remind me.... lumens...