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> Planted Aquarium V8

ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:12 PM


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- FYI, the first edition of Planted Tank initiated by nezumitaro
- All this is taken from the previous thread, thanks for those who did it.

QUOTE



Creating a Nature Aquarium (do note that there are many substrate brands in the market, you do not need to follow EXACTLY the steps given below)


1. 5 element
- Bacter 100
- Clear Super
- Tourmaline BC
- Penac W
- Penac S

user posted image
2. Aquarium Soil
- ADA Aquasoil
- ADA PowerSand

user posted image
3. Layout/scape
- rocks
- Driftwood

user posted image
4. Plants
user posted image
voila! after few weeks
user posted image
picture credits from google. none of these are pictures i taken.



"Dry Start Method" or "Emersed Growth Method"



Different people may have different opinions on this, but in my opinion this is the easiest way to create a scape especially "Iwagumi" style aquascapes where the plants we use are just foreground plants. One of the biggest challenges when we create aquascapes with just one variety of foreground plants is the plant mass is less when the initial planting is done. Now when we use substrate like ADA Amazonia II which is rich in nutrients the plant volume is not enough to absorb all the excess nutrients that algae takes over and it becomes extremely difficult to maintain such tanks until the plants have established and grown fully. Now for people who don't want to go through this trouble of the initial phase but yet end up with a Iwagumi scape like the one below, this method is the perfect solution.

user posted image

user posted image


Maintenance during Dry Start Method

During this phase you really don't need to do much maintenance on the tank. You don't need to have very high lights on the tank as well as there is no water column to penetrate. No CO2 injection required. All you need to do is keep your lights on for 8-10 Hrs a day, open the wrap once a week for 5 min so that fresh air gets in and seal it back up. The results after two and half months is below.

user posted image


Flooding the Tank

Once the plants have filled in like shown above, it's time to fill the tank with water. Once the water is filled, CO2 injection is required and needs to be kept very high for 2 weeks close to 5 bubbles per second (bps). Afterward, bring it down to 3bps. Setup lights as per the plants requirements. (Cuba is not a very light demanding plant). Setup filter that you have decided on using. If you are using nutrient rich substrate like ADA Amazonia II, follow the below light and water change routine.

Week 1: 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 2: 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 3: 7 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
Week 4: 9 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week

Your tank is completely cycled after this stage and if you follow the above routine you will have minimal algae issues except for some diatom algae during the first 2 weeks on the glass which is easily wiped off during your water changes.

NOTE: A correct combination of amount of Light , CO2 and nutrients is required to keep a planted tank free of algae bloom. In most cases it is excessive light that causes the problem. Keep your lighting moderate and you will have minimal algae issues.

thanks for shrimpnow


==========================================================================================================
Below are Local Fish Shop selling Planted Aquarium Equipment and Accessories
Credit to My-Mac.net Mr.slcw who created the post.

Please note that, please call before you go to check on their operational hours/days to avoid disappointment

new store added :
Sisaiko aqua store
Durio 4, Tmn Warisan Pertanian, Presint 16, Putrajaya
fb: www.facebook.com/sisaikoaqua


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This post has been edited by ciohbu: Mar 7 2012, 02:42 PM
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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:13 PM


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Types of Filtration:

Let me first start from the Basics of the types of filtration

Mechanical Filtration: This type of filtration is used to remove suspended dirt, floating particles and debris from the water column. This type of filtration is achieved by foam, sponge, fiber mesh and similar fine meshed media. Below is an example of a Mechanical Filter Media from an Eheim Canister Filter.

Biological Filtration: This is the main type of filtration that is required for any aquarium. This mainly consists of media like Ceramic Rings, Bio Balls, Lava Rocks, etc, essentially media which is highly porous which provides a large surface area. Lot of essential bacteria like nitrifying bacteria and microorganisms thrive and multiply in this type of media and the high surface area provided by this type of media directly results in the amount of bacteria that colonize in your filter. These bacteria are found in the tank and form a film over every surface inside the aquarium and are referred to as “Bio Film” but the quantity of this in the tank is not enough. Hence we use Biological Media in the filter to provide a good growing area for these bacteria. These bacteria convert harmful shrimp waste which is essentially ammonia into harmless nitrates which is readily absorbed by the plants as nutrients. Without the biological filtration in place the shrimp waste spoils the water quality and the flora and fauna suffer which also leads to death. This type of media should ideally form 80% of the entire media used in the filter.

There are commercially available products that have dormant essential bacteria that become active when you add them to your tank. It usually comes in a powder form and can be used underneath the substrate, sprinkled inside your tank and on the biological filter media. This will jump start your Tank cycling process. This can also be used in case you end up wiping out the essential bacteria in your setup for any reason. Some examples of these products are ADA Bacter 100, ADA Bacter Ball, Mosura Bio Plus etc. There is also biological filtration media which come seeded with the essential bacteria like ADA Bio Rio which also reduces your tank cycling time and also has excellent surface area for your bacteria to colonize. To know if you’re nitrifying bacteria and other essential bacteria are doing well, you can use an ammonia/nitrite test kit. These should ideally be zero.Below is a picture of ceramic rings.


Chemical Filtration: This type of filter is used to remove harmful chemicals from the water in the tank. Activated Carbon is what is used to act as a chemical filter. The life of activated carbon is 7 – 14 days based on the quality. After which it needs to be replaced if required. External Canister Filters come with an Activated Carbon Pad as a part of the filter media. Once a tank is cycled, you really don’t need to have this media in your filter unless you suspect that there are some harmful chemicals in the water. It is good to keep this media handy with you, in case for any reason if some harmful chemicals do get introduced to your tank through the tap water or other sources you can use this media in your filter to nullify the effect of those chemicals on your shrimps. Below is a picture of Activated Carbon

thanks to http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/252-B...ypes-of-Filters
=====================================================================

Introduction to algae issues

Spirogyra - Silk Algae, Water Silk

user posted image

QUOTE
This algae doesn't appear in polluted water systems but in ones that are eutrophic, rich in nutrients (liquid ferts, CO2 and light).


Cladophora algae

user posted image

QUOTE
Cladophora is a branching, green filamentous alga, that forms a moss like structure. This algae doesn't appear to be slimy


Black-Beard Algae (BBA), Red-Brush Algae

user posted image

QUOTE
Unstable CO2 levels will induce BBA! The best way to combat Brush algae is by maintaining CO2 at 30ppm, nitrates at 15ppm and phosphates at 0.5ppm. Leaves that are badly overtaken should be discarded. Siamese Algae Eater will eat BBA


Green Dust Algae (GDA)

user posted image

QUOTE
Green Dust Algae are actually zoo-spores and are commonly found on aquarium glass. They form a dusty looking, green patchy film and in severe cases can cover the whole aquarium glass


Green Spot algae

user posted image

QUOTE
Green Spot Algae prefer direct light. It forms green spots on aquarium glass and slow growing plants that are exposed to strong light. This algae will appear if CO2 and Phosphate (PO4) levels are low


Staghorn algae

user posted image

QUOTE
Higher ammonia/ammonium levels (overstocking and substrate disturbance) and low CO2 levels will favour this algae. Its been known that the Siamese Algae Eater will keep this algae in check. Nutrient control and plant pruning will limit Staghorn algae.
Thread algae

user posted image

QUOTE
Thread Algae grows on leaf edges as a single, up to 30cm long, thread. It is easily removed by twirling a tooth-brush around it. Excess iron is a possible reason


Green Beard Algae

user posted image

QUOTE
It will show up in planted tanks with low CO2 and NO3 levels. This algae can be found in low and high pH waters. Green Beard Algae is very common in non-planted aquariums.The best way to control this algae is with the Neritina sp Zebra snail that will eridicate it. Siamese Algae Eater, Plecostomus spp. are known to eat this algae as well as the Rosy barb and a very aggressive fish called the Red Tailed Shark
credit to http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/ (visit for more algae info and pics)://http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/ ... info and pics)://http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/ ... info and pics)://http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/ ... info and pics)

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Mar 7 2012, 01:56 PM
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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:13 PM


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tank pictures

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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:14 PM


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reserved for tank pic biggrin.gif

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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:15 PM


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reserved for tank pic biggrin.gif

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post Mar 7 2012, 01:15 PM


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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:19 PM


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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:21 PM


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post Mar 7 2012, 01:21 PM


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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:22 PM


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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:23 PM


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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 01:24 PM


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calvin_ng
post Mar 7 2012, 01:37 PM


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Yahoo!!! Congrats!!!!! V8 V8 V8 V8 V8 V8!!!
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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 02:04 PM


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decided to do some changes

not going to paste all the old pics in V8, but will start over with new pics

so pls let me know if u wanna add ur new tank pictures biggrin.gif

any upcoming events, workshop, fair can let me know too.. will update it in the first post

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sisaiko
post Mar 7 2012, 02:15 PM


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great....V8
thx for ur effort ciohbu smile.gif
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ciohbu
post Mar 7 2012, 02:17 PM


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no problem biggrin.gif

anyway, can give me the details for ur upcoming workshop, ur shop name and address ? then i can add into the list

thanks ~
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sang gemok
post Mar 7 2012, 02:19 PM


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YEY.

im one of the earliest to post. hehehe. yahoo
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kimimaro_kun
post Mar 7 2012, 02:45 PM


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1St page!!
Congrats
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calvin_ng
post Mar 7 2012, 02:49 PM


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QUOTE(ciohbu @ Mar 7 2012, 02:04 PM)
decided to do some changes

not going to paste all the old pics in V8, but will start over with new pics

so pls let me know if u wanna add ur new tank pictures biggrin.gif

any upcoming events, workshop, fair can let me know too.. will update it in the first post
*
My cabinet still in the process of making
My Tank is ready 4x2x2 smile.gif
My Co2 system is on D way
ADA Soil - READY on stand by
Volcano rock missing 50% hahaha biggrin.gif
Canister Filter - READY
Lily Pipe - READY
CO2 difusser : looking smile.gif
SERA Fertilizer tablet and kick start - READY

muahahaha waiting...........
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ramon7153
post Mar 7 2012, 02:51 PM


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yea..congraz..V8
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